Weather stripping

[Flyfisen]

Back from paint and I was adding all new weather stripping back on the rig. Now my problem is the doors don’t want to close.
Painter had doors off to paint (beautiful Hot Ginger), and must have reinstalled with zero weather stripping as it was all taken off.
So, will the new stuff relax so I can close the doors all the way, or do I have to have the doors adjusted now that the new stuff is on. Suggestions
Passenger door if slammed shuts tightly, drivers door another issue. I was able to get it closed all the way once but I really had to slam it numerous times.

 

[Speedrdr]

Is it a full cab or a half cab? On my 1st EB I had closure issues when it was a half cab and had to trim the weather stripping on the latch side to reasonably close and latch. When I went to full cab, the issue went away. Still don’t know why.
Not sure if this helps, but it’s an option.
Randy

 

[Slowleak]

Sometimes silicone lube on the seal will help them close easier until they get broken in. Heat also helps. If you are tired of slamming the doors, you can back off the door latch a little so they close easier, then readjust over time as the seals compress.

 

[Flyfisen]

Slowleak great idea I was not aware of an adjustment at the latch. Any way you can walk me thru it. Would be helpful

 

[Slowleak]

Slowleak great idea I was not aware of an adjustment at the latch. Any way you can walk me thru it. Would be helpful

The latch post is adjustable. Mark around it first with a pen of some sort so you know where it was. Then slightly loosen the two screws holding it to the body. Be careful not to move the post up or down. Just move it slightly outward and tighten the screws back up. Try the door and readjust if necessary. Good luck...

 

[Jfryjfry]

The new weatherstripping makes doors not shut all the way. It’s been discussed. There are some ( or just one) manufacturer who makes one that seems to work well. Mine didn’t. I ended up cutting a little bit out of the length of mine so it wasn’t as thick.

 

[jmangi62]

I installed all new weatherstripping from NEClassicbroncos, the doors close ok, they are tight but close good. Can't remember the name of the guy, delconick maybe? I would check with him and see if he has any sets left, good guy and great products.

 

[EPB72]

If the door gaps where good before weather stripping ,and now if you adjust latch stricker the rear of door will stick out .

the old METRO brand seals where the ones to get not availble anymore...


Google search bronco door WS and you will find this is a common problem...GOOD LUCK.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1977-...272815055534?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 just found this

 

[Slowleak]

If the door gaps where good before weather stripping ,and now if you adjust latch stricker the rear of door will stick out .

the old METRO brand seals where the ones to get not availble anymore...


Google search bronco door WS and you will find this is a common problem...GOOD LUCK.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1977-...272815055534?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 just found this

The objective of moving the post is to allow the door to close easier until the seals have a chance to soften and break in. It just temporary....

I don’t know if anyone has tried the Metro seals recently. Since they retooled a few years ago, the new seals are nothing like the old ones. Profiles and density were completely different. I bought some, spoke with Metros production manager several times about issues, and to my knowledge they never resolved the problems. They seemed to have little interest in it but made many promises.

If I was buying seals now, I would go with Dennis Carpenter or Northeast Classic Ford (Delconick).

Older threads about Metro...
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270957
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2890642

 

[andyp]

I have gone through this a number of different ways and have come to the conclusion it is the lower door seal that is the main culprit. Especially near the door hinge side. Without getting to long winded, the stock style rubber causes the door to spring back before the second part of the latch can hold the door closed fully. Cutting out the rubber along the door sill and replacing it with double tube type soft seal works very well. The flat side has peel and stick adhesive on it. It doesn't look stock but it sure beats slamming the doors.

 

[Flyfisen]

Got mine from TBP, and resealed the entire beast. Not looking to peel anything off I’m going to try moving posts temporarily and once rubber settles in return to proper position. So far the silicon spray has helped. Now I have to wait for the blaster to loosen up the lower Phillips head as it ain’t budging.