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Best thermostat temp for high heat climates

Bitch'nBronco

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Loose Cannon
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Dec 1, 2005
Messages
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Loc.
Ringwood, NJ
It's starting to get hot in El Paso and I just got my Bronco registered. Whats the best thermostat temp to keep my bronco running in the 180-190 range. I went to a car show this morning and was at 185 on the way there when it was 75 out. I hit 205 today cruising at 65 when it was 87° out on the way out. Its only going to get hotter out.

Cooling setup is 160° tstat, aluminum radiator, flexalite electric cooling fan, 95 Mustang Cobra water pump, green coolant with royal purple purple ice additive. I was turning around 2100 rpm on the highway for 20 mins

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jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,213
You won't like to hear it but the 195 degree thermostat recommended by Ford does the best job. No thermostat at all, doesn't work at all. Then I'll have to say the factory 7 blade fan driven by the engine and a BCB heavy duty 3 core copper is the best combination I've found.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,816
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
I run a 180 and that's where it stays pretty much. That's in LA heat and traffic. 351w, stock water pump, derale solid fan, Tom's steel shroud and a bc standard 3-core. Also not running a heater.
 

Maddog B

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
88
I live in South Carolina and run a 195 t stat, a $100 eBay aluminum radiator and the factory fan. My Bronco sits at 190 degrees all day long. The problem with cooler thermostats are they stay opened all the time and don’t allow the coolant time to actually cool off in the radiator. A 195 thermostat also makes for better heat in the winter.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
If your enginevcan't run within the range of a 195 degree thermostat, you've got other problems.

A higher temp thermostat is better for your enine in a couple of ways...

First, it'll run more effeciently. I could tell the difference in peppiness going from a 180 to a 194 thermostat.

Second , the higher temperature will remove moisture faster. Neither thermostat will allow the temperature to reach the 212 degree boiling point of water, but the higher temperature will get rid of it faster.
 

DirtDonk

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Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
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Whats the best thermostat temp to keep my bronco running in the 180-190 range.

What they said.
While ultimately keeping it in the 180-190 range may best be accomplished with a 180 (or not...) t-stat, it sounds like you're already running higher than the t-stat rating in your engine. So also as said, you have other issues.
But going straight to a 195 is likely your best bet for now, if your engine is finely tuned. What are you running now? Carburetor or EFI? What ignition and what is your initial timing, and advance curve set to?
What about the rest? Rebuilt or original? Camshaft change or not?
You should verify your ignition timing is not too low, and you may need to be using a mechanical fan after all.

If a carburetor and standard tuning, you may very well end up back at a 180. But don't go all the way to a 160 again because it causes more trouble than it solves. And since it did not solve it the way it is now, it's not going to next time either. Our engines prefer 180 or more t-stats when running properly.
With EFI 195 is your only real choice. The only modern cars I can think of that run cooler stats are those with engines like the Hellcats, Demons, COPO's and maybe a few others.

And engine that has a good combustion process and does not ping early will actually appreciate those 200° temps.
You're not overheating until your (accurate) gauge reads 230 and climbing. Of course, you don't really want it getting into that area because there's no more headroom. But at 210-220 if it's not climbing, you're still ok.

I went to a car show this morning and was at 185 on the way there when it was 75 out. I hit 205 today cruising at 65 when it was 87° out on the way out. Its only going to get hotter out.

How does it run around town at slow speeds? Sounds like aero and airflow could be your issue because it's running to much higher than the rating of the thermostat at higher road speeds.

Cooling setup is 160° tstat, aluminum radiator, flexalite electric cooling fan, 95 Mustang Cobra water pump, green coolant with royal purple purple ice additive.

The radiator should have more than enough capacity on it's own, assuming good flow through it.

The pump should be fine, though I don't know the specifics of a Cobra pump. Higher volume and pressure are good things for a pump to do, but even a stock garden variety pump is enough to cool a Bronco when everything else is working as it should.

Coolant type and additive are good. But what is your ratio? The more water, the better it cools, but we're not talking about enough to change the whole setup if you're just a little over 50/50 mix. If you're running mostly anti-freeze though, I would give it a little better chance by adding some water.
I never had a problem with "mostly" anti-freeze, but I always added just water when it was low. By the time it was time to change out the coolant, I was probably at a better than 70 percent water solution.
Not quite as consistently hot as your area, but hot enough to highlight issues if they were there.

Your fan choice could be an issue.
How big is it, what type is it, and how much CFM? Is it a puller or a pusher? Fully shrouded, or at least ducted?
An electric fan can cool a Bronco, as long as everything else is sorted. They really shine at slow speeds, but can also really struggle at higher vehicle speeds as aero becomes more of a problem than a help.

So what's your setup? Lifted? That makes the aero equation even worse.
Got pics?

I was turning around 2100 rpm on the highway for 20 mins

So what's your setup totally? Lifted? Big tires? What gearing? Overdrive trans?
Reason I ask is that 2100 rpm at highway speeds is pretty low for a Bronco, so that means you either have an overdrive, taller gears, smaller tires, or your highway speeds were not that high overall.
But if the gearing is wrong for the tire size, your engine will be struggling. And the harder the engine has to work at lower rpm, especially at higher vehicle speeds were air is trying to bypass and push back through the radiator, an electric fan is going to be fighting an uphill battle. And a Bronco is going to run hot.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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Bitch'nBronco

Bitch'nBronco

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Thanks Paul,

My radiator is an ebay aluminum 3 core

The Fan is a Flex A Lite 398 16" fan at 2500 cfm

I'm also running the wild horses tool tray/air dam and have done everything I can to force air into my radiator.

The Bronco has a mildly built 302 bored .030 over, has an RV cam (I don't have the spec sheet) with a dual plane intake and 500 cfm edelbrock carb. Ignition is an HEI at 10° initial timing. I've never timed the curve before

Drivetrain is a ZF5/NP205 unsure of my axle gearing, but I think they're 4:10s.

It has a 3.5" lift with a 1" body lift on 35x12.5 mud terrains.

About the only thing I haven't done is add a shroud to my fan or go back to a mechanical fan


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Bitch'nBronco

Bitch'nBronco

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Here are some photos of my setup
dba6c2c42ff466d58ae537414f4da5a4.jpg
80b127c94ec098243da4819fe0cc17e6.jpg
0dd7b525c971dcf191692e07c9dfecbc.jpg
982d5a52e337dee36ee57cb7639bcc8e.jpg


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broncodriver99

Bronco Guru
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Jan 27, 2008
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Glen Allen, VA
I see that with the electric fan you are only cooling about at best 50% of your radiator. That is a big problem especially in a hot environment. You definitely need to either go back to a mechanical fan and shroud or do something different with your electric fan set up. You need airflow through the entire radiator core.
 

broncodriver99

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Glen Allen, VA
Is that a Mustang serpentine setup? If so IIRC they use a reverse rotation water pump so any mechanical fan set up you consider would need to be for reverse rotation. I think there is a reverse rotation fan clutch setup that will work. I remember reading something about it many moons ago.
 
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Bitch'nBronco

Bitch'nBronco

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Yes it is a Mustang setup. What mechainical fan would you recommend? Would a 5.0 explorer fan work? I don't have enough room as it sits now to add a shroud to my current electrical fan

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68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
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Hate to be the one to say it, but that fan needs to go. Commonly considered the only electric fan that moves enough air for an EB is the Taurus 2 speed fan. It moves over 4000cfm. I run a 34in wide radiator with 2 14 in spall fans, the best ones they make, and while I can run in 100 degree temps hard in the desert, the fans stay on a lot more than I was hoping and stay on for quite some time before cycling off.
 
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Bitch'nBronco

Bitch'nBronco

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I've got no problem swapping to anything else. Its the last part of my rig I really need to iron out to make it reliable.

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Steve83

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Yes it is a Mustang setup.
Is it a Mustang (or reverse-rotation) timing cover & water pump? If it's the original forward pump & timing cover, you're spinning the pump impeller backward, which doesn't move nearly as much coolant.

And your e-fan HAS a shroud - it just doesn't fit the radiator. But I agree that a mechanical fan would work better.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
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Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,699
As stated that fan will not do it. I fought that battle a few times myself.
Another thing that is hurting you is the way that fan is shrouded. It only covers the diameter of the fan, not the core of the radiator. When stopped it pulls air in over half the core. The engine compartment is full of hot air and an escape it forward through the core (around the corners). The air has now passed through the radiator twice and is really hot. The fan then sucks it in for a third pass.

It cools fine at speed, you have plenty of ram air through the core. Cooling at speed shows that the is the heat rejection capacity is enough. Just fighting flow. And airflow is clearly a problem to any of us that have tried this same approach.
 
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Bitch'nBronco

Bitch'nBronco

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Started looking at the taurus fan swap with volvo relays. Seems like it'd be cheaper and flow better than running a steel fan with a shroud. I'm just not sure it'd fit with my front dress. I may hit the upull this week

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DirtDonk

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Clearance is always an issue. I'm a bit surprised your existing one fits in there with so much space left over. Well, "so much" being like a half an inch maybe, but hey, it's something!
By default your fan will create at least some air flow through the other fins, but it's very inefficient at best, and as was said, it's not always strong enough to keep the turbulence from shuffling hot air back through when it wants to. The air dam does help things, but not this thing.
And that's a fairly big gap between your core support and the radiator it looks like from here. Maybe more than most? That should be covered up some too if you don't mind a little extra fiddling about.

If you really wanted to experiment some more, you could add a shroud to your existing setup. In theory it would be better if you moved the fan rearward, spacing it off the radiator and maybe attaching it to a shroud. But that's not really feasible in most Broncos. Just adding the full coverage shroud and leaving your fan in place should still improve air flow over the rest of the core.

But for our information, just where is your Bronco running properly, and where is it running hot? Is it hot on the highway and cool on the trail and city streets? Or is it cool on the highway and hot when driving slower? Hotter under load maybe? Or just more speed-related as far as you can tell?

Oh, and that is a seriously cool Bronco! Hope you can get it running cool now too. You've put a lot of work into it to get it where it is. Be nice to see it running cool all the time and a smile on your face.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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