Can someone explain the advantage of a throttle cable vs our accelerator bell?

[T4x4R]

I need some education,

I just re-installed the accelerator bell in the engine bay, but I have seen a lot of folks go to a throttle cable. Is it worth going to cable if I have the sniper?

How does it install to a stock pedal?

Thanks!
Tom

 

[Yeller]

the bell binds the throttle open if you break a motor mount, watched it happen a lot of times, can be scary to dangerous. I prefer cables my self.

 

[T4x4R]

so its a safety stop vs a performance or drivability issue?

 

[nvrstuk]

What Steve said. Even if you don't break a motor mount when you get all twisted up in the rocks you can get enough flex that your throttle return spring can't pull the linkage back to idle. Seen it happen many times... so it's not a WOT issue but it might be 1400 rpm when you want 700rpm. Can cause body damage issues when you aren't crawling next to that big tree or rock when you should be.

Swap it, it's worth it.

 

[gnpenning]

Years ago I was one of the lucky ones to break a motor mount in Moab. After a moment of pucker factor things settled down. Short chain on mount to get out, thankfully the local NAPA had one in stock.

When my throttle cable broke on my 69 Firebird it just went to idle. Go cable.

 

[gr8scott]

Also, some of us run taller than stock valve covers that won't allow the bell-crank to fit. I could almost get away with it with my new valve covers,
but after reading this thread I'll stick to my cable.

 

[T4x4R]

Thank you! throttle cable ordered.

 

[jckkys]

I'm having a real hard time seeing any way the movement of the throttle linkage would be affected by a broken engine mount. The OE driver's side mount separated, ie. the rubber pulled off the steel on my '77. This caused the fan to destroy the shroud, but nothing happened that would effect any part of the accelerator linkage. Can anyone articulate the mechanics of this?

 

[DirtDonk]

And would not a reasonable alternative be to use motor mounts that have the safety "rivet" design like we've been talking about for years anyway? Seems like with that design there's no appreciable movement of the engine if the rubber, or vulcanization fails.

Not necessarily arguing against cables, because my trucks with cables also work just fine for me. Just curious if someone wanted to keep their original linkage, if the updated mount would not be another solution.

Paul

 

[jckkys]

Again, what connection is there between the stock accelerator linkage and broken engine mounts? nvrstuk talked about things getting twisted up. What things and how does a spring loose it's flexibility? Yeller say's the bell (I assume he means bell crank) binds the throttle open. How does that work? The bell crank isn't near the throttle shaft or lever. The OP asked if it's a safety stop vs. a performance or driveability issue. I'd love to answer that but I don't know what it means. I think it's an, I bought this so you need to also, even if I can't articulate a reason, issue. Based on the total lack of an actual reason to change, I'll stick with the stock system that worked for 53 yrs. Ford didn't see a reason to change either.

 

[thegreatjustino]

I'm having a real hard time seeing any way the movement of the throttle linkage would be affected by a broken engine mount. The OE driver's side mount separated, ie. the rubber pulled off the steel on my '77. This caused the fan to destroy the shroud, but nothing happened that would effect any part of the accelerator linkage. Can anyone articulate the mechanics of this?

The stock accelerator linkage mounted to the top of the intake manifold, behind the carb.

If an engine mount breaks and the engine moves around, the intake manifold and by extension the accelerator linkage moves with it. If the engine moves independently of the accelerator pedal, the throttle linkage to the carb will actuate.

 

[gnpenning]

What Justin said.

I don't know if I can articulate properly for my situation, but here goes. When it happened to me I was crawling and twisted under load with low gears. The motor raised enough to bind the linkage causing it to stay in location and letting up on the throttle pedal didn't allow the throttle to return to idle. I needed the engine to return to idle immediately not later. The bell crank under bind will stay in the same position due to the bind until the engine drops down to the correct location, doesn't matter what that rpm is. So basically you have a cruise control and it will maintain that speed. Not a fun place to be. Years ago GM had a short chain from the frame to the motor to limit movement in case a mount broke for the same reason, this is what I did to get me back for replacement. I don't know when Ford went to a cable versus the bell crank, at some point they decided it was an improvement.

 

[Broncobowsher]

For me it was just driving down a bumpy road. As the engine and body moved around on the rubber mounts I could feel the pedal shaking up and down as well, The fancy equalizer linkage was long gone.

By going to a cable it opened up the movement without feeding back into the pedal. It also made it easier to convert to a progressive throttle linkage (scroll shaped throttle drum) for drivability.

The broken motor mount is a legend mostly stemming from a flawed GM motor mount of the 60s. While possible, and it probably happened to someone, cables can also pinch, bind, and stick. I have had issues with a throttle cable in the past. It isn't a guarantee.

 

[nvrstuk]

jkkys- the SPRING doesn't bind? What's that have to do with the rod and the bell crank? Not sure of any relevancy there???


The bell crank assbly when bound slightly due to the body moving and/or the engine moving can keep the rods and pivot points from operating freely... hence not allowing the throttle shaft to move easily... (here comes your spring)... not allowing the spring to have enough force to overcome the binding and return the throttle shaft to whatever position it should be.

How many Ford products use bell cranks now? Just because 53 yrs ago it "worked" unless you were off road, doesn't mean it's good enough, safe enough or reliable enough to keep using it. Remember drum brakes, 2bbl carbs, smog pumps, 8.3:1 compression engines, etc, etc, etc meaning to me that there aren't many products used from 1968 on newer cars or trucks that have the same lifespan, efficiency, dependability, etc, etc.

I do remember every truck I drove hauling boats, hauling trailers, driving empty all got about 8mpg, had terrible emissions, had points you had to adjust with a nail file or matchbook, change plugs every 5,000 miles, had Sylvania sealed beams that glowed like a candle in the dark... I think you get the picture... Just because a Bronco came with it as OE doesn't mean it's any good... wipers on top of the windshield !! LOL Not jumping on ya but 53 yr old tech is a Model T...

Hope that helps. Seen it happen in a half dozen rigs- only whent twisted up.

Like Broncobowsher said- no guarantee with cables either. The cable and housing when misaligned during installation will cause the cable to wear a groove in the housing... then it too will bind.

 

[gr8scott]

Based on the total lack of an actual reason to change

I needed taller, baffled valve covers to clear my roller rockers and the throttle bell crank was in the way, so off it came and replaced with a cable.

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

jkkys- the SPRING doesn't bind? What's that have to do with the rod and the bell crank? Not sure of any relevancy there???


The bell crank assbly when bound slightly due to the body moving and/or the engine moving can keep the rods and pivot points from operating freely... hence not allowing the throttle shaft to move easily... (here comes your spring)... not allowing the spring to have enough force to overcome the binding and return the throttle shaft to whatever position it should be.

How many Ford products use bell cranks now? Just because 53 yrs ago it "worked" unless you were off road, doesn't mean it's good enough, safe enough or reliable enough to keep using it. Remember drum brakes, 2bbl carbs, smog pumps, 8.3:1 compression engines, etc, etc, etc meaning to me that there aren't many products used from 1968 on newer cars or trucks that have the same lifespan, efficiency, dependability, etc, etc.

I do remember every truck I drove hauling boats, hauling trailers, driving empty all got about 8mpg, had terrible emissions, had points you had to adjust with a nail file or matchbook, change plugs every 5,000 miles, had Sylvania sealed beams that glowed like a candle in the dark... I think you get the picture... Just because a Bronco came with it as OE doesn't mean it's any good... wipers on top of the windshield !! LOL Not jumping on ya but 53 yr old tech is a Model T...

Hope that helps. Seen it happen in a half dozen rigs- only whent twisted up.

Like Broncobowsher said- no guarantee with cables either. The cable and housing when misaligned during installation will cause the cable to wear a groove in the housing... then it too will bind.

NevrStuck, any pics of your cable set up? Or anyone with a sniper?

 

[Broncobowsher]

...How many Ford products use bell cranks now? ...

None.

They are all drive by wire. Started in the mid 90's with the powerstroke. The accelerator pedal tells the computer the desired power level, the computer decides how much throttle to actually apply.

 

[EPB72]

For me it was just driving down a bumpy road. As the engine and body moved around on the rubber mounts I could feel the pedal shaking up and down as well, The fancy equalizer linkage was long gone.

For me this was the reason as well ,,,Driving down hard pack washboard/Cat track roads at speed caused you to lose pedal feel and control of throttle..

back in 90 or so walking through the wrecking yard saw a 70's f100 with the front clip and engine removed Just dangling there was a throttle cable and bracket took it home and installed fit perfect like it was meant to be .After that the above problem was gone and never looked back.......

the motor mount issue well if you have a stock hood ,351w and no body lift Iguess the air cleaner in the hood will stop the engine from lifting under high torque situations ...but with these after market hoods .body lifts and high torque/ horsepower engines and climbing over rocks the situation could be alot different....different senarios different results....

 

[Yeller]

And to answer Paul's comment about the "riveted" mount, its not enough to prevent binding. I've been about run over many times from the bell crank linkage hitting the valve cover or intake helping someone, had one separate with the rivet last week, fortunately it just created some excitement by climbing an obstacle faster than expected and no one was in harms way. Installed a ratchet strap to hold it down and away we went.

 

[jckkys]

We need to clarify what bell crank were talking about. The early I think '66-'69 2nd bell crank on the intake or the later sole bell crank on the firewall. The OP hasn't given us any info about the year of his Bronco or any other info. This is unfortunately common. I see thegreatjustino assumed it is the early intake bell crank. Assumptions are unfortunately common too. I specified that I have a '77 that only has the fire wall bell crank.
I don't care about after market valve covers. Anyone can install after market parts that don't work with stock parts. That doesn't even imply the stock parts are are defective. It just means a little thought is needed in choosing after market parts. The OP has said nothing about after market parts. There is as of yet no info from the cable guys, describing what the mechanics of their vague statements about things binding up or what you get all twisted up means. The OP hasn't translated what post #3 means in English.