I have searched thru the forum as much as I can, with not much luck. I have a 74 bronco, 302, mild cam. I installed a holley sniper kit. I am a competent mechanic and I have checked all the usual suspect items. Followed all the instructions to the letter. The truck started fine after install, and ran down the road ok. After some time, the truck will not start after it comes to operating temperature. We can hear the initial fuel spray into the body, but it appears that its not enough to start the engine while hot. No matter what I do, it will not start. It appears that its a tuning issue. I have tried several different settings to get it going, no luck. I tried holley tech support, no answer and put on hold for hours. Can anyone share their experiences with this type of setup?
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Holley sniper help!!!!
- Thread starter kybronco
- Start date
Action
Sr. Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2004
- Messages
- 579
so mine has been pretty good but 1 out 20 starts you can hear the fuel pump run longer then normal.....when it does that it will light off then die...but if i put my foot to the floor it will start.....still working on that 1.....timing i am running 12 cranking....20 idle....40 cruze....35 wot......still playing with all of this.....Mine is also a sniper stealth....
Issues I had with my FITECH
1. Is the sniper controlling the timing?
A. If so, assume you put in an adjustable rotor
a. Is it still at the same timing mark
1. Did you loctite it
I did not loctite my rotor, started moving and causing issues...
2. Do you have metal or PTFE fuel lines and are they shielded
A. Are they away from headers or manifold
B. Do you have an inline fuel pressure gauge and if so what is it reading
I had metal lines, switched over, rerouted and placed a heat shield. Vapor locking (this was my 1st issue after installing the engine and fuel injection)
1. Is the sniper controlling the timing?
A. If so, assume you put in an adjustable rotor
a. Is it still at the same timing mark
1. Did you loctite it
I did not loctite my rotor, started moving and causing issues...
2. Do you have metal or PTFE fuel lines and are they shielded
A. Are they away from headers or manifold
B. Do you have an inline fuel pressure gauge and if so what is it reading
I had metal lines, switched over, rerouted and placed a heat shield. Vapor locking (this was my 1st issue after installing the engine and fuel injection)
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2007
- Messages
- 218
Having the same problem with my sniper as well, intermittent hot (and cold) start issues. Seemed to be getting too much fuel on hot starts and flooding out, could get it to go by putting it to the floor while cranking as Action mentioned. Was told by holley tech support to make adjustments to the fuel prime percent and multiplier settings, played with those with no major improvement. Then dialed back the cranking fuel quite a bit and that seemed to help some, but still having ongoing issues.
I've also experienced the exact same thing as Action described with the fuel pump running longer than the normal 2.5 sec it usually takes, and seems like every time that happens, it wont start. Mentioned that to holley and haven't gotten an explanation of what's going on there.
Have gotten to the end of the road with their support as well and would like to hear others input and how to resolve it.
I've also experienced the exact same thing as Action described with the fuel pump running longer than the normal 2.5 sec it usually takes, and seems like every time that happens, it wont start. Mentioned that to holley and haven't gotten an explanation of what's going on there.
Have gotten to the end of the road with their support as well and would like to hear others input and how to resolve it.
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2007
- Messages
- 8,778
My bet based on longer pump run, to make pressure, you have a leaking injector. What is your fuel pressure at the carb during crank? Running?
Sniper is NOT controlling timing. i am going to check timing though since I did adjust it higher during install.
I have metal lines adapted over to flex lines near the engine bay. Routed lines down the frame rail and up near the steering shaft. Fuel pressure is 63 psi during prime and 62 during run.
from most experiences it does start fine after cool down.
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2016
- Messages
- 798
I would send an Email to Chris at EFIsystempro. He knows his stuff, gets back quickly to you, etc. If you call, they usually let you put in your name and they get back to you. He is a wizard, might be able to give you some pointers, will ask you what version of the software you are on, whether you're running the progressive adjustable linkage, etc. They have mods that help. I will be starting mine up this month, I hope it goes well, good luck to you.
Forrest
Forrest
WOW
#8 Hard Starting and Hot Restart Issues
Make sure the fuel pump is properly mounted and picking up fuel. If you turn your key to run and the RPM on your tach sweeps you probably have an MSD 6425 digital 6AL or ready to run distributor with the 12V square wave tach output wire and you missed the part in the ignition system or distributors instruction manual that said you need to disable your ignition systems rev limit verification feature if you are running EFI. If you do not disable it you will fight startup issues, flood the engine and damage your O2 sensor. Also check your cranking voltage if it starts hard. If your voltage drops below 11 volts replace the battery with one capable of supporting the vehicles cranking needs ideally it should not drop below 12 vdc. Digital electronics like clean stable voltage. If you're getting in the 10's your asking for issues.
Tim
#8 Hard Starting and Hot Restart Issues
Make sure the fuel pump is properly mounted and picking up fuel. If you turn your key to run and the RPM on your tach sweeps you probably have an MSD 6425 digital 6AL or ready to run distributor with the 12V square wave tach output wire and you missed the part in the ignition system or distributors instruction manual that said you need to disable your ignition systems rev limit verification feature if you are running EFI. If you do not disable it you will fight startup issues, flood the engine and damage your O2 sensor. Also check your cranking voltage if it starts hard. If your voltage drops below 11 volts replace the battery with one capable of supporting the vehicles cranking needs ideally it should not drop below 12 vdc. Digital electronics like clean stable voltage. If you're getting in the 10's your asking for issues.
Tim
bchesley
Full Member
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- Dec 21, 2012
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- 327
Are you running the entire system? Distributor and ignition box? Are you running the latest software? If you are not running the latest software stop guessing and go download it. It could be an instant fix. Then if that doesn't work call the tech line they are great! I had an injector fail after a month of running and called the tech line who helped me figure that out. Then they had it repaired and back to me in 5 business days. Runs like a champ now.
can you attach a data log on here?... So much it could be.
How/where did you install the O2 sensor? Is it reading like 32.7 or something like that (Maxed)?
What happens when you try disabling closed loop? Is it Tuned or Wizard running it? If wizard did you try re-running a fresh Wizard?
Did you tune the IAC to be around 2-9ish when warm idle?
Also if you've been trying for a while your plugs might need cleaned and put back in (You did a little bump in gas each time to start).. Another point is if you tun the key on and off a few times, then try to start if it did need more gas to fire, it will give it more
How/where did you install the O2 sensor? Is it reading like 32.7 or something like that (Maxed)?
What happens when you try disabling closed loop? Is it Tuned or Wizard running it? If wizard did you try re-running a fresh Wizard?
Did you tune the IAC to be around 2-9ish when warm idle?
Also if you've been trying for a while your plugs might need cleaned and put back in (You did a little bump in gas each time to start).. Another point is if you tun the key on and off a few times, then try to start if it did need more gas to fire, it will give it more
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2007
- Messages
- 8,778
so simple check first, whats the fuel pressure? That is defacto step one in trouble shooting fuel injection systems. Has been since the 80's.
EFI System Pro also has a good bit of tech info on their website. Here is one on start up tuning.
https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pr...ng-engine-startup-sniper-terminator-x-stealth
https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pr...ng-engine-startup-sniper-terminator-x-stealth
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2007
- Messages
- 8,778
Funny, step one: Actual fuel pressure matches what is specified in the configuration
Broncobowsher
Total hack
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- Jun 4, 2002
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- 37,074
I would start with the very basics.
When it is hot and it won't start, do you have spark? Lot of ignition parts can fail when hot. The extra heat soak after you shut it off may be pushing it over the cliff.
Does the controller read any RPM while cranking? I know mine would. It would go from "STALL!" to an RPM value. That would show the computer is reading a tach signal.
If you give it a good manual squirt of fuel down the throttle body, will it start, or at least stumble like it wants to start? That would show a lack of fuel delivery as an issue.
The too much fuel is a little harder to check, but it is like a clear flood condition or a boiled over carburetor hot start. Disconnect the fuel or EFI (since the EFI doesn't do timing in this case) and give it a good crank at half throttle. Fresh air will lean out the flooded condition.
All of those checks can be done with virtually no tools.
When it is hot and it won't start, do you have spark? Lot of ignition parts can fail when hot. The extra heat soak after you shut it off may be pushing it over the cliff.
Does the controller read any RPM while cranking? I know mine would. It would go from "STALL!" to an RPM value. That would show the computer is reading a tach signal.
If you give it a good manual squirt of fuel down the throttle body, will it start, or at least stumble like it wants to start? That would show a lack of fuel delivery as an issue.
The too much fuel is a little harder to check, but it is like a clear flood condition or a boiled over carburetor hot start. Disconnect the fuel or EFI (since the EFI doesn't do timing in this case) and give it a good crank at half throttle. Fresh air will lean out the flooded condition.
All of those checks can be done with virtually no tools.
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