77 Bronco Rebuild with 429

[fogiz]

Bought this Bronco from a buddy after it sat for a long while. Blown 351M, 4" lift, C6/205. I got it home, cleaned it up and looked over it. Over all it is in good shape structurally and about 95% rust free. Plans are to swap in a 429 and make it a solid driver.

 

[904Bronco]

Sounds more like a 78-79, or did someone transplant a drivetrain?

 

[Broncobowsher]

FYI, the 385 series big block (includes the 429) does not fit very well in an early Bronco. I have seen a couple over the years. Always ends up as a hack job.

Now if this is a big Bronco, that makes it nearly the same as a full size truck, where a 460 was an option (only in 2WD)

 

[DirtDonk]

There have been one or two Early Bronco 460 swaps I saw that were relatively clean.
Still a lot of work as you say, but they looked passably nice.
Remember, one of them was in the top truck challenge not that long ago. What, maybe 25 years!

 

[Broncobowsher]

A couple I can think of. One had a bed mounted radiator because there just wasn't room in front of the engine. The other had about 6" pocket cut into the fire wall, another just moved the whole firewall back about 6". Master cylinder wants to be inside the driver's side valve cover.

About the only thing going for you is the bellhousing of the 351M is a match for the 385 series engines. But being a C6, it is big. Next up is moving the transmission back to match that firewall clearancing for the engine, now you are running out of room for a rear driveshaft.

This isn't a normal swap, and for good reasons. You will need to be a good fabricator and creative in packaging everything because you will run out of room really fast.

Best advise I can give, don't start it. Find a better engine to swap in.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, the one I remember from the top truck challenge had cut the radiator core support off and made a small framework to move the radiator forward a few inches.

 

[t120r]

Use a fox mustang conversion oilpan. This will allow room for the tracbar. You will need to notch your front crossmember to about half the width and then brace it up. Use L&L fenderwell headers to find the perfect placement and the engne will fit fine. Ditch the factory waterpump for a Mezier remote unit and it solves your rad problems.

 

[t120r]

The engine swap is the easy part. Building things up to take the torque is the challenge.

 

[sprdv1]

Bought this Bronco from a buddy after it sat for a long while. Blown 351M, 4" lift, C6/205. I got it home, cleaned it up and looked over it. Over all it is in good shape structurally and about 95% rust free. Plans are to swap in a 429 and make it a solid driver.

post up some pics

 

[sprdv1]

Yeah, the one I remember from the top truck challenge had cut the radiator core support off and made a small framework to move the radiator forward a few inches.

definitely a few mods

 

[t120r]

Use a fox mustang conversion oilpan. This will allow room for the tracbar. You will need to notch your front crossmember to about half the width and then brace it up. Use L&L fenderwell headers to find the perfect placement and the engne will fit fine. Ditch the factory waterpump for a Mezier remote unit and it solves your rad problems.

I should add that the above is for a mild 500-600hpish and below. If I had my time back, I would have positioned my engine with a set of Maddog fenderwells as you can get those with larger diameter tubes. The L&L headers are 1-3/4". All that being said, they probably fit exactly the same.

 

[bmc69]

Yeah, the one I remember from the top truck challenge had cut the radiator core support off and made a small framework to move the radiator forward a few inches.

I had to do that to make room for the 239 in my '69. It can be one fairly cleanly...but of course you lose the factory hood latch in the process.

 

[sprdv1]

I had to do that to make room for the 239 in my '69. It can be one fairly cleanly...but of course you lose the factory hood latch in the process.

lesson learned right

 

[66broncoCT]

I had to do that to make room for the 239 in my '69. It can be one fairly cleanly...but of course you lose the factory hood latch in the process.

I had to do the same thing to fit my 300 straight 6 in. My radiator is basically touching the back of the grill. Hood pins are required.

 

[bmc69]

lesson learned right

Not many folks putting 239s in EBs.. ;-)

 

[bmc69]

I had to do the same thing to fit my 300 straight 6 in. My radiator is basically touching the back of the grill. Hood pins are required.

I've seen 300s shoehorned in without mods to the radiator support...used the 240 or Offenhauser intake that allowed the engine to sit back a bit more..closer to the firewall.

 

[Madgyver]

i fitted a big headed clevor in my 77. cut firewall to clear heads. modified core support for radiator and AC condenser and still retained stock hood latch and lock.

 

[bmc69]

i fitted a big headed clevor in my 77. cut firewall to clear heads. modified core support for radiator and AC condenser and still retained stock hood latch and lock.

Pretty much the same as I did when I put the 408C in my '69. But I still lost the stock hood latch to make room for a pusher fan.

 

[bax]

same here all true. no firewall mods but did lose the safety hood latch. The hook part.

 

[66broncoCT]

I've seen 300s shoehorned in without mods to the radiator support...used the 240 or Offenhauser intake that allowed the engine to sit back a bit more..closer to the firewall.

Mine has the truck efi intake on it. I also cut the firewall a bit, basically changed the angle on the passenger side to be flatter. Probably ripping it all out soon for an explorer 302/4r70w combo though