Steve83
Bronco Guru
That suggests there's NOT some obstruction plugging the pickup tube, which was the point of the test.Turning the pump backwards just makes a sloshing sound in the oil pan.
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That suggests there's NOT some obstruction plugging the pickup tube, which was the point of the test.Turning the pump backwards just makes a sloshing sound in the oil pan.
Worth a look-see at any rate.
I would buy a cheap pump at parts store, drain oil, replace filter, and see what you get.
I had a 460 with remote and had to remove it to get oil pressure reading where I could live with it. I di not build the engine or the truck, bought it that way.To add a little more info here, due to the custom nature of this build, this does have a remote oil filter kit installed. So one more thing that could be causing problems or malfunctioning.
I had a 460 with remote and had to remove it to get oil pressure reading where I could live with it. I did not build the engine or the truck, bought it that way.
Mine was such that I was able to remove it.In the seven or eight years I've owned this Bronco, there's never been an oil pressure issue until this month. At this point the remote kit doesn't seem to be causing any part of the issue. Like you, I bought the Bronco with the remote kit installed - I bought it from the guy who built the Bronco. If by some chance it does end up being part of the issue, I'll need to find a remote setup that works since it's physically impossible to install a filter directly on the engine with the custom frame built the way it is.
There should be a strong odor of gas from the weep hole, even if the gas is flowing past the pump arm into the crankcase. But when you pull the pump off (if the engine has run recently - it doesn't have to run long enough to get hot), you should see if there's gas around the pump arm. If you're sure there's NOT, you can re-seal it to the engine without even disconnecting the lines.How do you determine if the fuel pump diaphragm is leaking?
There should be a strong odor of gas from the weep hole, even if the gas is flowing past the pump arm into the crankcase. But when you pull the pump off (if the engine has run recently - it doesn't have to run long enough to get hot), you should see if there's gas around the pump arm. If you're sure there's NOT, you can re-seal it to the engine without even disconnecting the lines.
Should work if you cap the inlet and suck on the outlet. Otherwise you will suck through the check valve or be testing the check valve.I've actually read you can hook a brake bleeding vacuum pump up to the fuel pump. If you can't get it to hold vacuum, the diaphragm is toast. Can anyone confirm this test will work? I did read this tip on facebook which we all know is more often than not full of crap...
...or you're still boiling the gas inside by lowering the pressure. Depending how much is inside the pump, it could take a while to vaporize & remove it all. Warming the pump would speed that up, though.I've actually read you can hook a brake bleeding vacuum pump up to the fuel pump. If you can't get it to hold vacuum, the diaphragm is toast.
Should work if you cap the inlet and suck on the outlet. Otherwise you will suck through the check valve or be testing the check valve.