Headlight switch removal issue

[Soylent]

Any tricks to remove the shaft. Pressing the button all the way or partially doesn’t seem to release it from the old switch. The button seems to be depressing normally.

This button

 

[thegreatjustino]

Turn the knob back and forth while pushing the button until you find the sweet spot.

 

[75MIKE]

Are you pulling the knob out all the way and then pushing the button? That's how mine works anyway.

 

[Soylent]

Thanks. Will give it another go when the rain stops.

 

[serial car restorer]

Are you pulling the knob out all the way and then pushing the button? That's how mine works anyway.

Same with mine. Doesn't work if I push it first, then try to pull it out.

 

[Soylent]

To answer your question, no I wasn’t doing it that way. Went back out there and got the switch out in 10 seconds! Now why didn’t WH tack on that spacer? Off to get some JB weld.

 

[Broncobowsher]

To answer your question, no I wasn’t doing it that way. Went back out there and got the switch out in 10 seconds! Now why didn’t WH tack on that spacer? Off to get some JB weld.

WH doesn't make the switch, thus why the spacer isn't welded on by them. The switch fits numerous different Ford models over decades of model years. Different models may or may not have needed the spacer. When Ford built them, they would factory install the spacer and have a different part number. Since this is an aftermarket switch, tooling is setup for non-spacer and the spacer is included but not welded on. This way the switch will fit models that require the spacer and those that do not. More applications, few unique part numbers required on the shelf to fit those. Keeps availability up and prices down.

 

[Soylent]

Well, replaced the headlight and ignition switch and cleaned up the contacts for the fuses. The gauge lights still don’t work. But now the turn signals don’t work and none of the gauges work. Feeling defeated now.

 

[DirtDonk]

And unfortunately, the headlight switch doesn’t have anything to do with the gauges.
The ignition switch certainly does, but it goes through the IVR first. Check around on the back of the cluster and put a voltmeter on the input side (black with green stripe wire) and see if you have 12 V going into the instrument voltage regulator. Only with the key in the ON or ACC positions.

For the gauge lights, turn the rheostat all the way up to the click position and check for voltage on the small in the fuse panel.

 

[Soylent]

Thanks Paul. I will check both sides of IVR as well as both sides of each fuse in the block. I have found many non-stock spliced in wires and some that have fallen to the floor completely disconnected. Looking closer at other wires, especially near the loom connectors at the firewall, I can see splitting of some of the insulation. I can’t risk having these issues on the trail or multi day trip so I think I am going to do a complete Painless rewire.

/Forgot that I had two threads on this issue. I replaced both the headlight and ignition swithches. Forgot which thread I was in.

 

[Soylent]

So a quick check and there is no voltage at the 12v wire on the IVR. No voltage to either side of the 14 amp turn signals fuse (blk/gr wire from ignition) or either side of 2 amp for gauge lights. Still power at the bottom two fuses fed by blk/y. I must have not connected the wires to the ignition switch correctly. Or connected wrong one as their are a bunch of disconnected non oem wires back there. Anyway, will be ordering the Painless kit.

 

[DirtDonk]

That should work, but it’s a shame that you can’t get some things running in the meantime.
For the fuse panel, there are only three power wires coming in, and then all of the other power wires going out after the fuse
The black with yellow is powered all the time from the Battery. So it sounds like that one is working.
The black with green is only powered with the ignition switch. If you look at the back of your ignition switch, is the black with green wire attached to the back setter stud of the switch? That is not a ground stud, that is where the accessory power comes from. Make sure that wire got attached and secured.
The third power source is the blue with red stripe wire coming in from the headlight switch, through the fuse, then out to all the dash illumination lights.

 

[Soylent]

I will look at that center stud today. The blue red is the one to the 2 amp fuse that started to blow right after I swapped the gauge cluster. I agree that it would be nice to find the “why” is this happening but I am getting exited about a complete rewire and having extra relay circuits for onboard sir, offroad lights etc. Also under dash lighting etc.

 

[73azbronco]

Ignition switch and headlight switch are stock 1973 items on my bronco, I could not get any aftermarket stuff to work right.