Front Binding when warm

[Jp925]

I hate posting technical issue threads as vague as this, but I’m puzzled and maybe someone that knows the platform better can help.
74 u15, front Chevy disk swap, all factory Dana’s, 3 on the floor, efi engine from a ‘93 Mustang.

Truck drives great, last year I noticed on after a good drive, when I would turn the wheel at low speeds I out get a pretty rough binding, it feels like it’s coming from the front and will not happen when cold.

I pulled the front wheel bearings apart and repacked them. It felt like it helped but the weather got colder and I drove it less. Took a nice long drive last week and had it happen again pretty bad…. Feels almost like the tire is rubbing but both are clear. I can only really feel it from a stop, at speed it seems fine as I can turn without issue.

Twin fork transfer sticks are in: rear high - front off and hubs are not in the locked position for anyone asking to cover the basics.

Put the truck on the lift and both wheels spin freely when turned; what am I missing here?

 

[Timmy390]

Off the top of my head......Brakes dragging after getting hot? Like maybe there is a RPV in the master cylinder for the front disc ? Shot in the dark......

Tim

 

[JB Fab]

Power steering? Is the power steering belt tight, reservoir full?

 

[EPB72]

look at your flex hoses to your calipers see if they kink during a turn , possibly acting as a check valve pressure dosent release while turned ....

 

[Jp925]

Power steering is good, I should have clarified it binds when turned and you try to accelerate, the wheel itself turns fine.

I didn't think about the brake system..... going to investigate the hoses today.

 

[gnpenning]

Are you sure the front axles aren't turning?

 

[Jp925]

Are you sure the front axles aren't turning?

so as far as I can tell.... unless I'm missing something or there's another way to check.

front drive shaft spins freely, hubs are unlocked, and when lifted up, the front wheel turning does not spin the front drive shaft; could something be engaging when the drivetrain warms up?

 

[DirtDonk]

GM disc brake conversion maybe?
Not enough clearance between the steering knuckle and the caliper on one or both sides?
If you pop your head over the top of the tire and look down, you should see plenty of daylight between the caliper and the knuckle. Or by daylight, I mean, you should see the ground, perhaps.

 

[Jp925]

GM disc brake conversion maybe?
Not enough clearance between the steering knuckle and the caliper on one or both sides?
If you pop your head over the top of the tire and look down, you should see plenty of daylight between the caliper and the knuckle. Or by daylight, I mean, you should see the ground, perhaps.

clearance isn't an issue, plenty of space between the 2.

 

[DirtDonk]

Is it only at very slow speeds, or when just starting to roll? Or can it happen also while you are already rolling along?

It sure sounds like the front, but I’m just wondering if a binding rear wheel bearing could be causing the problem. Just a random thought anyway.
Maybe old wheel bearings in addition to a limited slip, possibly causing that feeling.
Did you build this rig yourself? You know it’s history entirely? Have the rear wheel bearings ever been changed? Basically they should be changed every hundred thousand miles or 35 years.
Whichever comes first!

Sounds like you know your way around it, but just curious how you adjusted the front wheel bearings. Many people get it wrong and put a preload on the bearings and that could lead to binding.
But if it was the bearings getting hot or binding, you probably would’ve seen it when you repacked them. Would’ve been slightly discolored, or striated or even some brinneling in extreme cases.
But you didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary when you had them out?

Did you ever replace a master cylinder, or perhaps a brake booster? Along with what Timmy said about hoses in post two, it could be just a slightly misadjusted booster rod putting just slight pressure on the master.

 

[raleigh_bronco]

Hear, hear… (Dirt’s post is right.)
‘if he didn’t grind down that spot enough the caliper will hang up!

 

[Brush Hog]

Are your tires hitting radius arms when turning? Used to happen to me but wasn’t consistent only when going slow and making a fairly tight turn.

 

[Jp925]

Are your tires hitting radius arms when turning? Used to happen to me but wasn’t consistent only when going slow and making a fairly tight turn.

yea, my tires rub but this isn’t the issue; good looking out though.

Little more info……

Noticed it will do it cold but it’s quiet and not as aggressive.

The longer the truck is driven the more aggressive it is. It does it at basically dead stop, till probably 5mph, gas station maneuvering is awful. Binds and sounds almost like some sort of grind….. could this be a ujoint thing? I haven't pulled the front diff apart yet; it’s weird, the issue sounds like my 99 super duty wheel bearings sounded when they were failing, but unless I dunno how to check bearing play on my bronco; that can’t be it.

 

[Brush Hog]

Are your hubs locked? Might be something with front drive shaft if they are. And make sure not in 4H.

 

[Jp925]

Are your hubs locked? Might be something with front drive shaft if they are. And make sure not in 4H.

Hubs 100% not locked, I have the twin stick transfer sicks, front is off rear is High. Dumb question.... what are the symptoms of a bad axle ujoint?

 

[Brush Hog]

Ones I’ve had and seen were noisy….squealing, squeaking, clanking. Prob other symptoms too but that’s what I experienced.

 

[DirtDonk]

...what are the symptoms of a bad axle ujoint?

Strange steering issues. But in my experience at least, it's consistent and does not change with use. When they get old, dry, rusted and stiff (and they do!) it gets harder to steer.
But it does not get harder to get rolling. It can't, since in theory at least, the u-joints are static and not turning with the wheels or the engine.
Because you have your hubs unlocked, and your t-case in 2wd (verified with you turning the driveshaft by hand, then I don't see how it can be the u-joints.

However, that said, they definitely deserve a good looking at, and a change if needed. If they're original, then they very likely need changing. The ones on my '71 were practically toast by about '81 and needed replacing. When I had it up in the air one time, it was very hard to turn the knuckles by hand. Pulling the axles revealed that the u-joints were almost frozen solid. You could move them with great effort, but it was obvious they were toast.

I suppose a test that you could perform without having to dismantle half the front end, would be to lock both hubs (leave it in 2wd for the moment) and see if steering does two things.
If it gets harder to steer, they're probably on their way out. Worse still, if the wheels jerk back and forth even with very little steering input, the joints are probably frozen.

If you don't see much difference between locked and unlocked, then lock them in and lock the t-case in 4 (or front) wheel drive and see if that makes a difference.
If they're in good shape, you'll still get the steering wheel rocking back and forth in your hands as you approach extreme steering angles (such as making a tight u-turn) but you should not feel it through the wheel when driving in a wide circle.

Paul

 

[75MIKE]

Is there noise when you turn on dirt or gravel? Was wondering as my LS rear will bind after coming off the highway while still on asphalt. Explained to me that the fluid gets thrown from between the clutch plates. Don't
know if that is a wives tale or not, but doesn't bind on dirt when I turn off the highway.