Engine Install, Crankshaft Won't Turn

[wood47]

Just need a sanity check before I pull the engine back out. Pulled the engine awhile back to replace a core plug, but ended up replacing some other things while it was out. Replaced the harmonic balancer, timing chain, water pump, new gaskets, etc. Crankshaft spun freely while it was on the stand.

A move necessitates getting it back on frame, so got it back in last weekend with some difficulty. Realized I forgot to put it at TDC so I can reinstall the distributor. Put the transmission in neutral and tried to turn the crankshaft. But it seems frozen, I'm not getting any movement at the harmonic balancer bolt at all. Double checked I'm in neutral, nothing.

I'm assuming I missed something in reconnecting the transmission, but what are some possible things to check? Would it be easier to drop the transmission or pull the engine again?

 

[Wild horse 75]

I have a feeling your torque converter isn’t in place and you’ve now jammed it against the pump. See if you can wiggle the converter a bit. If you can’t try loosening off the bell housing bolts. If that’s what has happened you’ll have to make the decision which to get out of the way cause you’ll need to seat the converter into the pump properly before reconnecting them again.

 

[gnpenning]

I would unbolt the torque converter and push it back out of the way. Yes, I know they are a little ignorant to get to the bolts.


Can you give a little more information on the difficulties you had reinstalling.

As to which is easier to pull, really depends on what you have to assist in removing them.

 

[Broncobowsher]

If automatic, probably a pinched front pump from an incorrect convertor install.
Did you get the convertor nuts installed? Did you have to suck up the transmission to the engine with the bellhousing bolts?

If stick shift, I have other ideas about transmission being gear bound. Clutch issues should still let the engine rotate. Unless there is something strange with excessivly long bolts bottoming out against the block.

 

[73azbronco]

spark plugs in? oiled cylinder walls? Yeah that can be tough to turn.

 

[chuddy]

If the converter was incorrectly installed, you likely killed the pump.

 

[wood47]

Resurrecting an old thread I made a couple years ago - as sometimes happens with projects, life got the better of me. Diagnosis above was correct, I incorrectly installed the converter when dropping the engine back in. As soon as I dropped the transmission, the crankshaft spun freely.

Question now is, did I damage the pump or the converter?

 

[jeffncs]

Resurrecting an old thread I made a couple years ago - as sometimes happens with projects, life got the better of me. Diagnosis above was correct, I incorrectly installed the converter when dropping the engine back in. As soon as I dropped the transmission, the crankshaft spun freely.

Question now is, did I damage the pump or the converter?
View attachment 962543
View attachment 962545

Assume “yes” to both and replace them while it’s apart. It’s too much work to find out later…

While the pump is out, check that the rest of the trans spins freely. Again - this is the time to do it.

 

[Grey owl]

Remember, if you hsve to force anything something is not right. Should not have to use bolts you pull things together. If you do something will break, get bent, and its going to be expensive. Also make sure the pilot bearing in the back of the crank has been removed.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The pump dies first. Pull the front pump off the transmission and inspect.
Now is the time. Broken parts are in the pump only right now. Take a gamble and put it together and start it, you just spread broken pump parts through the transmission.
But since it has not run, it has not circulated anything.

 

[nvrstuk]

LIke already mentioned but sometimes we have to hear it more than once.... the pump is dead, sorry.

Do NOT start the engine or you get to rebuild the entire trans as parts will contaminate your trans.

 

[SLOWnEASY]

And remember when you install the torque converter to the transmission you should have three distinct clunks. With the transmission bolted to the block you should have to reach your fingers in through the starter hole and slide the converter forward to get the bolts into the flywheel.

 

[wood47]

Pulled the pump, did I dodge a bullet? I don't see any major scoring, no chipped teeth, no chunks of metal, no cracks in the casting. While it was preloaded, I didn't attempt to turn the crankshaft too hard and obviously the engine was never started.

 

[nvrstuk]

Have you pulled it apart?

 

[wood47]

Yes, should have included them in the last post

 

[Wild horse 75]

I would also check your flex plate. Something had to give when you bolted it all up and locked it up. I wouldn’t be surprised to find you bent it.

 

[gnpenning]

Yes, should have included them in the last post

This is the money shot. Be sure to pull out and check the backside.

You can set it down on the torque converter and turn, AFTER you add a little oil to the area the pump rides on.

As mentioned check the fly wheel and give everything else a real close look.

 

[Broncobowsher]

While you have it this far apart, slip the pump gear on the snout of the convertor. Just in case something with the drive flats got smooshed on the last install.

 

[73azbronco]

Me, I would buy a pump and converter and move on. Aaaaaaand double triple check the two thunks and twist while installing while tranny out of vehicle.

 

[Grey owl]

I use a Hughes 2000 stall converter on my automatic change over. Really made a nice difference.