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No Such Thing As A Dumb Question

DirtDonk

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I just realized, I don’t think I’ve ever actually read the manual on how to separate those connectors.
Maybe there is an actual officially recommended procedure.
Maybe there’s even one of those “special tools“ that the manufacturers always list in the beginning of the sections.😁
 

BlueSierra

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Dec 13, 2023
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I have a feeling his is body lifted and since the floor is further away from the pivot it travels further and has broken off the top piece of the stock floor cover.

Yes this sounds right. I found the replacement part but says it’s not suitable for lifted vehicles so I assumed it was to do with angles etc.


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LUBr LuvR

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I just realized, I don’t think I’ve ever actually read the manual on how to separate those connectors.
Maybe there is an actual officially recommended procedure.
Maybe there’s even one of those “special tools“ that the manufacturers always list in the beginning of the sections.😁
Good idea, I’ll dig out the manual after work. 🤞 it’s more detailed than the “pull apart” embossed on the the connector.
 

67sport

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Vancouver Island, Canada
Yes this sounds right. I found the replacement part but says it’s not suitable for lifted vehicles so I assumed it was to do with angles etc.


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You can buy fabric or leather boots on Amazon with a round hole. They hold up better than the plastic ones that come with the Hurst shifters.
 

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joshua

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About to por15 this baby. But torn if I should paint these mating surfaces? And to head this off at the pass, not where the bearing sits. Just the surface that mates to the backing plate. Reason I ask is I know it has a gasket that goes there.

All though I believe it’s more to keep dirt out than to actually hold g lube in.

Lmk Thanks!
 

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DirtDonk

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Not having used POR – 15 myself, I’m not an expert. But from what I’ve seen, I would not use the stuff on either of those gasket surfaces. It’s just too thick for my tastes.
For rust resistance just a thin layer of regular paint would be my choice.
Others may have more informed opinions though. So let’s see what multiple replies result in.
 

Yeller

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Any paint you put on a gasket surface will need cleaned off to promote sealing. Clean and bare on those surfaces. The gasket or gasket maker will keep it protected.
 

joshua

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Any paint you put on a gasket surface will need cleaned off to promote sealing. Clean and bare on those surfaces. The gasket or gasket maker will keep it protected.
That’s what I kinda thought. I’ll just trace around the components, and tape off accordingly. I figured it probably shouldn’t be painted. But idk that’s why I asked.

Thanks!
 

ba123

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You prob can't order that but you might be able to tap it and screw in a new brass fitting.

That's what I would do...and make sure to use thread sealing compound like the threadseal paste that also has has loctite blue in it.
 

DirtDonk

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For future reference, and so others might avoid a problem, what happened to yours? Did it get buggered up trying to remove it? Or just got banged around too much over the years?
 

1969

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Reno, NV
For future reference, and so others might avoid a problem, what happened to yours? Did it get buggered up trying to remove it? Or just got banged around too much over the years?

I am doing an EFI conversion and need this for the metered air to connect to the valve cover. The Explorer throttle body I have does not come with this.
 

Yeller

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any color of locktite itself will seal the threads. Blue would be my preference if you ever think it might need to be removed. I second tapping the throttle body, then any size of orifice needed can be installed.
 

ntsqd

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X eleventeen or something on tapping that port. With delicate parts like that I use the NPT specific tapered reamers as they make the actual threading part go way faster and easier. Less likely to damage anything. Unless you're thinking of going ORB?

I'll go a bit further and suggest that Lock-tite 545 be used specifically on small NPT threads. It is red, which will doubt give someone a heart-attack, but it not a thread locker, only a thread sealant. I use it extensively at work and at home.
 

DirtDonk

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I thought the explorer throttle bodies had that fitting. Mine does, unless it’s not an explorer part.

As an alternative, just put a fitting into the intake tract/tube. Anywhere behind the MAF and in front of the throttle plate will suffice.
 

jamesroney

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I thought the explorer throttle bodies had that fitting. Mine does, unless it’s not an explorer part.

As an alternative, just put a fitting into the intake tract/tube. Anywhere behind the MAF and in front of the throttle plate will suffice.
Naw, none of the Explorer 5.0's used the throttle body fitting. The Explorer put the PCV vent breather into the rubber hose (cold air pipe) between the throttle body and the Mass Air meter. It's kind of silly...but very common as they to try to get the vent orifice away from the throttle butterfly.

It's another reason why most people don't run the Explorer intake elbow and throttle body. But whatever.

That elbow fitting is widely available in almost every passenger car Ford made from 87-95 (Mustang, Full size, and T-bird.) Doesn't even need to be HO, but those point backwards. Definitely a junkyard item.

Here's a Pic of the explorer set up. Everybody talks about running "Explorer" EFI when they don't mean it.
 

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jamesroney

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Turbulence?
Legend (and theory) is part throttle "tip in" drive-ability. The PCV vent acts as a scavenger at that location and as long as you have minimal blow-by, I think it is largely irrelevant.

There is also a theory that at high intake velocity, there may be a venturi effect at that location, and it might pull instead of ventilate. So moving it several diameters upstream eliminates that potential.
 
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