Fitech Go EFI problems and warning....purchase at your peril.

[BigB]

Hi Guys,

600hp Power Adder # 30004
Handheld (newer style) software T198 v1.30
MSD street fire cdi
Duraspark distributor.

This is my 2nd install. This unit sat in storage for a few years and just installed last week. Truck runs amazing, right off the bat except cold starts take 4-5 attempts. This is on my 78 F250 crew cab.

My issue is the ecu does not accept/save any changes, even though the screen states "sent to ecu". Waited the time you're supposed to wait but the values never go to zero. The handheld also does not switch off with the key in the off position.
Tried changing engine size from 350 to 351, Rpm values, rev limit, basically nothing changes.. So it is my understanding that the unit will not self learn?

Called fitech support (Alex) today and he was pretty dismissive and told me I need a new handheld or he can't help me. Doesn't make sense to me that the HH is the issue, and nothing he stated gave me confidence. He was not interested in trouble shooting or seeing what I had already done. The only thing he was interested in, was talking over me and to tell me he had been doing this for 15 yrs and knew more than what I would find on the internet. Alex needs a bitch slap...

I ended up having to wire the constant 12v through a relay so it turns off and does not kill the battery. This was done after I found out that no changes were saving. Obviously no changes would be able to save without the 12v hooked straight to batt pos. Although if the changes did save you can utilize a battery disconnect afterwards.

The switched 12v is through a relay as the voltage dropped to a little under 10v on my crank/run circuit. I also tried running the fuel pump through a relay in case it was back feeding through that circuit. But even with the switched 12v and the fuel pump wires disconnected, the HH still stayed on with the key off.

I do not have the option of "calibration enable" on my screen. My ecu/tb is the early style with the fuses inline on the main harness. Apparently this option with the later software would make the screen go off.

The msd box and wiring was just installed with the fitech, so all the wiring and connections are new. I have neg/earth leads batt to engine/frame and engine body. And as stated the truck runs awesome, just like a raped ape.

I did order a new handheld from Summit just in case but I have a feeling it is actually the ecu. I have googled the shit out of this and have not come across the same issue.

Help me Obi wan.....

 

[BigB]

Update:

I was accepted to a FB owners group and was able to find the option to have the screen go off. So I have removed the relay on the constant 12v wire and have that going straight to battery.

 

[JB Fab]

I had that problem but it was intermittent. It happened when the handheld was hot (sitting in direct sunlight top off).
I know it doesn't make sense why it would remain powered up, I replaced the the handheld and never had that problem again....

 

[BigB]

I had that problem but it was intermittent. It happened when the handheld was hot (sitting in direct sunlight top off).
I know it doesn't make sense why it would remain powered up, I replaced the the handheld and never had that problem again....

Thanks but this hasn't been sitting in the sun.

I was able to find another setting -Cal no-save 196- change 196 to zero

After I did that The HH was turning off after the values went blank. I'm thinking success, I thought wrong. Any values I changed do not stick.

So I did a thorough round of testing today, even though all the wiring is new. Voltage drops were within specification at all points.

I get 10.35v cranking at the back of the plug on the ecu harness.

Then the fuel pump started to prime in an endless loop. After trying to trouble shoot this, the pump would no longer prime. Tested the voltage at the ecu for the pump. Zero, then after a couple of seconds 3 digit values flash up on my multi meter. This loop continues in a rythmic fashion. Fuck me!

I have written a lengthy and detailed email to fitech support and my hope is someone other than that DH Alex, answers it.

Funny thing about Mr 15 yr Alex, who knows more than the internet. In the FB group I joined I found posts of his, where he is sprouting off about getting a job with fitech around COVID.

 

[BigB]

Well I fixed it.

No thanks to Fitech support staff, who have sent me 1 email each day, all which have had nothing to do with troubleshooting and not answering any of my questions or responding to my troubleshooting updates.

I fixed it by buying a Holley Sniper 2.

As stated this was my second unit I have installed. From research this series of them have had a lot of issues with sub par components and manufacturing. My OG unit hasn't been a problem. It is the reason that the newer units have external relays.

Even though this was a brand new unit it was an older unit and that part is on me. It was purchased for a blower setup I was going to put on a 68 Torino, but ended up selling the car.

I had another person from fitech answer one of my fb group post, he goes by Hi-Way Dreams and his name is Austin. I had detailed voltage drop tests etc etc. He told me to check my grounds and also the carb studs nuts to make sure they are tight. I mean WTF? Funnily enough in our brief back and forth he went on to tell me that he was one of two of the most knowledgable guys on Fitech in the world.

FB is great in that you can search peoples past posts. Well just like MR 15 years, he was not that long ago working as a bar tender. Now he drives around and goes to car shows and sits in the fitech booth.

One of the recurring themes in my time on this planet has been this: People who tell you how good they are at something almost invariably aren't.

I like troubleshooting and my first job in the Aussie Navy was as an electronics technician. So one day down the line I am going to boil the coating out of the ecu and see if I can repair it.

I got the upgraded 5" screen and also an extended warranty which cost $169. So my unit is covered by the 3 yr factory and then 3 yrs of the extended. Piece of mind.

I got enough change from $2k to buy myself a case of beer. A tough pill to swallow when you have a brand new tbi sitting on your engine.

A replacement ecu from fitech is just under $300 and then I would need a new handheld as mine will not accept the new software, even though its the newer large screen $180. So I'd be at $500 to stay with fitech, where I know I will get shit support and a good chance of more problems.

Now many people have had luck but many haven't. In my deep research trying to sort this out there were constant stories of guys having the ecu replaced under warranty and it going tits up again. And I've had a 50% success rate but learnt an expensive lesson. And a constant theme from the fan boys and fitech techs/hanger on is to jump all over those having problems and state that it is something they have done. Yes people make many mistakes, that is how you learn, but when there are so many instances of product failure, and recurring themes, it's pretty fuckin ballsy to go for the jugular from the get go.

Now I don't usually type this much and my two index fingers are fuckin killing me. But I wanted to get the jist of my story down for the brotherhood so that others can take it as a little advice, when they are searching for Fitech advice. If I had of gotten timely and real tech support I probably would have just gone the replacement. But a fool and his money is only parted twice, if he is a top class fool and I am yet to reach those dizzy heights.

 

[Shimmy]

Well I fixed it.

I fixed it by buying a Holley Sniper 2.

LOL, never thought i'd read that.

 

[Remos69]

Been there did that. 1000% happier with the sniper 2. The self timing was what broke me, literally. I had issues with clogged injectors, as told to me by FITECH, RFI issues again told to me by FITECH. None of these were the issues. After getting the self timing back to where it should be, driving down the road it started missing again, this time, really bad. Back into the garage I couldn't get what I thought the miss corrected. After some more shooting, discovered #6 cylinder had almost no pressure. Broken valve spring (had to bring it to a buddy who has a shop check it out for damage) and replace all the springs. He works on mostly older corvettes and has deen through the sniper 1, FITECH, fiasco and has been installing sniper 2 on everything for a while. Also likes proflow on new builds. I went with the sniper 2 and my original msd distributor. He tuned the 351 where it runs like a beast and much cooler. Im sold......for now.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Years ago I was at SEMA shopping EFI. Holley had people who knew stuff, supported strange ideas I had (ECM controlled automatic transmission kickdown). FiTech only cared about the new finishes and multi carb applications they came out with. Ask any questions and got zero answers. More research and find the cant run self learning EFI with a dual plane is from FiTech putting the MAP sensor on only one side of the throttle body, Holley centered it and ran a channel to left and right sides to get a balanced pressure. Got the Holley, it was good. Getting the laptop adapter made it easier than the doing everything through the handheld. Supported adding a progressive throttle kit that was a huge win for drivability.

 

[BigB]

Years ago I was at SEMA shopping EFI. Holley had people who knew stuff, supported strange ideas I had (ECM controlled automatic transmission kickdown). FiTech only cared about the new finishes and multi carb applications they came out with. Ask any questions and got zero answers. More research and find the cant run self learning EFI with a dual plane is from FiTech putting the MAP sensor on only one side of the throttle body, Holley centered it and ran a channel to left and right sides to get a balanced pressure. Got the Holley, it was good. Getting the laptop adapter made it easier than the doing everything through the handheld. Supported adding a progressive throttle kit that was a huge win for drivability.

I wonder if you met the legend who calls himself "Hi-way Dreams" on FB.

The 3 fitech employees I have given detailed troubleshooting steps/answers to, have not responded to one of them.

I'm under no illusions that I may not have a problem with the Sniper 2, but I know I will get a better response from Holley, as I have in the past. I also searched and there are 5-6 tuners within 90 mins from me that are listed on the website for tuning/installation.

 

[Jdgephar]

Well, this doesn't give me any warm fuzzies for my FiTech. It's working fine for me so far. I did have to open it up and trim the MAP sensor seal so that it worked correctly. I don't leave the handheld plugged in. I've read that even if it turns off, the standby current is still quite high and will drain the battery. I only plug in the handheld when I want to use it.

 

[BigB]

Well, this doesn't give me any warm fuzzies for my FiTech. It's working fine for me so far. I did have to open it up and trim the MAP sensor seal so that it worked correctly. I don't leave the handheld plugged in. I've read that even if it turns off, the standby current is still quite high and will drain the battery. I only plug in the handheld when I want to use it.

Like I said, some units run fine. But the fact that you had to open it up would be strike one in my book.

The standby drain of the handheld has nothing to do with my problems but it is a known issue.

I guess you don't have a problem until you do. It's how that problem is handle with customer service that makes the difference. I have been spending the major part of my days since this occured, trying to fix this problem, and I know what I'm doing electrically. If a Fitech owner does not have those abilities, well they are further up shit creek without a paddle, than I am. And out of a lot of cheddar if they were to pay someone for the hours it will take.

After having sent more information to Fitech, this morning I have received my daily email. A link to a drop box for a software update and the YT video link of how to do it.

That's it. No answers to my many questions, no reasoning and explaining to me what has gone on and why they think this will fix it. Nothing.

It's gone from a case of perhaps they are overworked to quite literally not giving a shit about my problems and doing as little in response as possible. Or the people involved are over their heads.

 

[BigB]

Oh yeah. So they have sent me software to update my HH, yet when I first spoke to Alex (Mr 15 years) he told me that my handheld could not be updated, and I would have to buy the latest HH.

Which of these 2 clowns should I believe?

 

[BigB]

Finally got a response. Me first.

Hi,

The lack of response to my very detailed troubleshooting is baffling to me. Now you are sending software and a video? With no explanation as to why you think this will solve my issues?

Are you telling me that updating the software will fix all the symptoms I detailed, including the voltages and behavior?

I have come across endless fuel pump relay burnout issues from other Fitech EFI owners and a software update was never the fix.

Response

Hello, you most likely have a corrupted version of software, or a handheld that is not sending files over properly.
The update would resolve a software issue.

If you believe a software update will not fix the problem due to online “forums” or posts, you are more than welcomed to purchase an ECU and handheld to correct any issues you may have seen online.
The ECU runs 271 and is part number 30004-1 and the handheld is 62013-30004.

Me

Hi,

I don't believe anything, as how would I know? I can read prior problems that are well documented.

I first spoke with Alex on the phone and he informed me that my handheld could not have its software updated. He said he could not help me unless I purchased a new handheld. Suddenly, my handheld can be updated.

I then found on a fb group that I could adjust the "cal no save 196" option. This allowed my handheld to act as it should. Alex could not provide this information even though he told me he had been doing this for 15 yrs and that he knew more information than what I could find on the internet.

You have only just now provided an explanation for your software/video link, which relates to my thorough troubleshooting steps and problems.

If this fixes it, that's great. If it doesn't there is no way I would throw good money after bad.

The kicker.... You must have a PC to be able to load the software. Hello 1995, your computer is calling.

 

[Dylan_Shaffer]

Had FItech several years ago, never idled right, I had their fuel line burst about a month after install, called them and their response was “yeah we had a bad batch of fuel line”. Super lucky didn’t start a fire. Had their fuel pump cease on me while i was on the freeway, brought it to them and they handed me a new one, they said it happens sometimes. Then had an injector stick open and flood my engine with fuel after I shut it off. Came back to it with fuel dripping from the exhaust collectors. This happened twice. Wouldn’t recommend the system, install and initial setup were easy though.

 

[73azbronco]

Had FItech several years ago, never idled right, I had their fuel line burst about a month after install, called them and their response was “yeah we had a bad batch of fuel line”. Super lucky didn’t start a fire. Had their fuel pump cease on me while i was on the freeway, brought it to them and they handed me a new one, they said it happens sometimes. Then had an injector stick open and flood my engine with fuel after I shut it off. Came back to it with fuel dripping from the exhaust collectors. This happened twice. Wouldn’t recommend the system, install and initial setup were easy though.

fitech was the drag strips answer to self tuning, 1/4 mile at a time is all they needed out of it. Every trip a new program. I don't think it ever made it to a reliable daily driver status.

 

[BigB]

I found a mate who had a pc and uploaded it by following the YT video link.

The unit is still not priming the fuel pump.

I removed the fuel pump fuse and am running the fuel pump connected to a 12v battery.

The unit won't squirt gas or run. The voltage still drops while cranking.

I connected this truck to my Dodge ram via jumper cables and the hh is showing 14v.

The unit still drops voltage when cranking.

My truck starts instantly with starting fluid even before being connected to my Dodge Ram.

The fuel pump value goes to 100 when cranking.

RPM values appear when cranking.

She no worky.

Holley S2 arrives Monday.

Anyone want a pretty paper weight?

 

[BigB]

Weekend Prep Steps for Monday

1. Pull the FiTech: Disconnect the handheld, unbolt the "piece of shit" throttle body, and pull its wiring harness through the firewall. Clean the intake manifold flange surface so it's ready for a fresh gasket on Monday.

Some times AI gives me a good chuckle. Now it doesn't always get everything right but in this instance I think we can all agree, that it's bang on

 

[BigB]

Fitech tech support has taken 48hrs to respond to me and confirm that the ECU needs replacing.

I swear some guy had been saying that to them, over a week ago..... but what would he and the internet know?

The sniper 2 is miles ahead. The harness makes the fitech look poorly thought out and constructed.

The instructions are the same and the walk through on the handheld is more professional.

She started up on the second crank and has been running really good.

 

[1969]

Sorry for all your troubles. Terrible situation!

I was in the after market fuel injection camp until I hung around and read enough on this site. And not that I needed another reason but this is why I went Ford fuel injection. They invested untold sums of money to make sure their systems worked and continue to work for years and years.

 

[BigB]

Sorry for all your troubles. Terrible situation!

I was in the after market fuel injection camp until I hung around and read enough on this site. And not that I needed another reason but this is why I went Ford fuel injection. They invested untold sums of money to make sure their systems worked and continue to work for years and years.

All part of life's experience. Hopefully it gives those considering purchasing, a moment to pause. Mine is also not an isolated case as can be found by a Google search. They either seem to run fine with no problems, as does my first, or they are a bastard red headed stepchild. Apologies if you're a bastard red headed step child, but you know I speak the truth.

This was purchased for a blow through supercharger and you're not doing that easily or cheaply with Ford EFI. No comparison of what Ford designed and spent, though that stuff is getting pretty old and personally I think that giant intake is fugly, especially on an older vehicle.

When I get time I am going to dig into the ecu and see if something sticks out that I can repair. If that doesn't pan out I am considering using Microsquirt to control the throttle body/sensors.

The tech guy who I have painfully been working this through has told me that my older handheld can be updated to the latest software, so I would only be out the $260 for a new ecu. So blatant lying and pretty shitty business practices from the first clown (Alex Crude) that I spoke with.

I still don't want to give them anymore of my money.