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Wristed axle and spring rockers are not your friend if you want road manners..... I removed the spring rockers from one of our Broncos after 20 years, it reduced the on-road pucker-factor significantly.

I'ts been a couple of years, but every interaction/transaction we have had with them has been 100%

The last ones I used were Dennis Carpenter, no issues......

Logically it's simple.... My brain is used to a vehicle being flat, hanging from my harness with no horizon out the side window makes the whole self-preservation instinct click-in. that is the hard part, convincing the brain/sphincter that it is all logical..........

Yeah, I've done that....

Yeah that advert is pretty light on details

The best way to keep the front from over compressing is to NOT touch the brakes, pick a low enough gear to hold you back during the decent and still allow you to punch the throttle it the rear gets too light .

I'm very curious about the chemistry... Solvent? surfactant? ionic? All of those would/could have undesirable side affects.. Any guesses?

Sounds like the input gear is backwards....

Zip Code makes a big difference in price.....

Could be a sloppy slip-yoke too.. You could just remove the driveline and drop it off at a driveline shop to have it inspected/freshened up. If you do, have them quote you before you commit, it might be cheaper to buy a replacement (some driveline shops are expensive if your an average joe...

You need to start with an actual independent appraisal. $185K value, State Farm $1400 per year (limited milage, and multi discount). Having an independent appraisal has been instrumental in making sure repairs were correctly covered after loss.

It doesn't directly answer your question but I recently had to remove some liner to replace quarter panels. The areas that had good coverage of adhesion promoter were a lot harder to remove, including having to cut loose from the seam sealer with a razor knife. I no longer wonder about the...

Thx TXDraht, I am glad they worked, sometimes that is all it takes....

You will need a mag-base dial indicator to measure rear output endplay. I would recommend just pulling out the uoput assy and doing it in a vice....

Wow that is odd since it worked in the other case... I'm glad you got it figured out....

If the adjustable detents were installed too tight (way too tight), the spring can get pushed so hard into the ball that the spring expands around the ball and wedges the ball in the bore. I would remove the detent spring/ball as your 1st step of troubleshooting your issue. The 2nd step would be...

What he said^^ Also give the yoke a tap (or two) with a brass hammer while your turning it to make sure everything is settled in ....

I'm not trying to argue with you, transfer cases are my business. I've seen builders struggle with electronic cases, just trying to give you a heads-up that the "harness" that you requested input on will need to be special to incorporate an electronically shifted transfer case. FYI, BW cases can...

Ford Touch Drive was marketing, not an actual transfer case model. It typically referred to the BW 1354 or 1356. FYI. the shift motor includes an encoder to tell the PCM the shift position. without using the encoder feedback, the shift motor will crash. the electronics to make it work correctly...