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Long before the BC hose was available I took the stock plastic one (like the one from Jeff's) and cut the ends off. I had a local hydraulic hose shop crimp the ends on a braided stainless brake hose. Some shops can do it and some can't, so I would check before I cut up a new line. I'm not...

Summit Racing has a pretty decent search function. If you want press in studs with 1/2" thread and .625" spline it looks like you don't have much to choose from between 2" and 3". There are a few 3" and longer options...

I've run into similar problems before. I don't know where I got this listing of Dorman wheel studs, but it might be of some help to you. Good Luck

I've had to resort to completely drilling the screws out and starting over. The only redeeming quality of the original phillips head screw is that you can start a hole in the center of the screw. I ended up drilling the last stubborn set I had out with a 17/64 drill bit and re-tapped the holes...

Sorry, I was thinking the rod from the pedal to the booster. The pill that BC sells is made to take up the space if you are using your stock MC. I usually just swap out to a 1980 Corvette master cylinder on the Astro hydrobooster. I've done a few of them and never had any sort of push rod...

I can't take credit for this idea but the braces are cheap to build from tubing or 3/4" pipe. An adjustable spreader bar is also cheap to build from square tubing scraps and makes it easy to level the body for when you want to put it back on the fame.

Can you cut the one you have back by the pedal and thread the ends then put a coupling nut on it to lengthen it? How much longer do you need?

I didn't need it for the Astro hydroboost. The rod was long enough to slightly compress the cylinder when its installed. Now I'm talking something like 1/32 inch before the flanges make up. But it was basically matched to the master. I wouldn't buy the pill unless you have a problem later.

As long as it fits under your hood and misses your valve cover the clocking won't matter. I used a master from a 1980 corvette. The bronco I used it on has stock '76 Ford front brakes and the caddilac rear conversion. It needed an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes to get the...

I have to agree with others. There is a lot of rust repair there. I am just coming off of a few years of rebuilding one in similar shape and I can tell you it gets expensive, even if you can do all of your own work. I recently purchased the next project and you can use it for reference...

I agree that they can add some rigidity to the tub when the top is installed but they also make the top difficult to pull off and put back on. The first thing I do when I get a bronco with them still installed it is get rid of them. I have never had any problems with the bed sides separating...

I've been running power steering fluid in mine for years without any problems. I never bothered to look anything up, I just added more matching fluid (sort of) to the pump and went for it. BTW, I like to think I'm always right. I never really bother to check into that either ;D

The stock pedal assembly does brace the firewall some but I have had flex problems If I didn't add a plate to the firewall too. I have always used a stock Ford master and those can flex and break through the firewall after some use. I usually ad a piece of 1/8 plate around the cylinder to...

You have the wiring correct. The tab the outer casing is also the "jam nut" that clamps the whole thing to the dash, it has to be the ground. These aren't as easy as they seem to actually install. I have cross threaded quite a few and had some odd problems in the past. Get out a test meter...

I have run both the soft locker and NASCAR version in my rig and the NASCAR versions do seem to lock a little harder. I noticed the difference immediately after I made the swap but I don't notice it anymore either. Both take some getting used to on the pavement.

The inner rockers lap over the floor pans so you will have to cut some of the floor away to remove them. Leaving the bulk of the floor in place to hold everything else in alignment probably makes sense. I think you are on the right track. I usually try to get the floor and inner rockers solid...

What you are trying isn't really that much different from just replacing all of the front components on a single tub. In my experience the whole tub gets really flexible as you pull pieces of the cowl and kick panels off. Those front door posts take a lot of trial and error. I used self...

The aux tank under the driver seat is strapped to the body so it would come off with it if you wanted it to. The main tank is strapped to the frame and you need to disconnect the filler/vent hoses and wiring to pull the body. The tank can stay in place on the frame. I can't remember for sure...

There's some info here about half way down the page: http://www.bcbroncos.com/techtips1.html

It's all relative to what you want to do. I have a stock 5.8L serpentine set in my son's build with AC and air pump delete pullies. I moved the radiator forward 1" in order to keep the clutch fan. I think you could put a solid fan in and make it fit with a stock core support and radiator...