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https://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/collections/transmission-shifters/products/transmission-shifter-kit-ford-zf-5-speed

First thing that came to my mind....

7/16-14

Are you turning or going straight when you back up? I t sounds like a limited slip rear end issue I had. Are your tires the same size and aired to the same pressure?

They must be sellin' them, we are getting orders for the D20 shifters that will work with the kit. Not on our website, but it's a kit we can build to order (no extra charge).

I don't totally hate it, (actually don't hate it at all). I do respect the work that went into it. I'm glad they used a tire/wheel combo that looks like they belong on truck.

Yes..... Might be ok for temporary on-road use if you don't get much spring-wrap.

There you go... Straight from the horse's mouth (pun intended). It is a great product, we have beat on ours... Jon

Like I said, ours was press-fit. Since that shaft/bearing assembly in stock form is designed to have a small amount of endplay, that would not be constant with a loose fitting race (IE: prone to spinning, difficult to accurately measure endplay).

Yep, looks like your R2 has a the rear shifter location (preferred). Just throw them in the mail, and we will be happy to adjust them for you. We can do that without leaving any marks on the handles. Email me if you have any specific requirements for the bends other that 45* down 6" from top...

If you let me know the number/brand that will solve your issue, I would be happy to check what I have ?

I would not consider mixing/matching brands of bearings/races unless it was a temporary fix maybe I'm OCD..... I do know the bearing industry has had challenges lately, causing supply issues.

You could also reference the bearing part numbers on the internet to see the published specs. FYI, I did one of those kits on my wife's white Bronco a while back, it was press fit......

Should be press-fit, you don't want that spinning in the housing. Do you have a way to accurately measure the housing/bearing race. Once you have that info, you will know the solution.

This is what we used on our last one. Is says "direct to metal", but I would only do that if the metal was freshly sanded/blasted, if there is any possibility that the entire seam surface cant be covered by the sealant you must use the self etching primer (IE: the bedside seams)...

This is the closest to what the factory used, but most people I know use a seam-sealer out of a tube... https://www.tptools.com/3M-Strip-Calk-and-Seam-Sealer,3345.html

The first thing is to use a self-etching corrosion protection, automotive grade not hardware store stuff. Be prepared to spend $20-$40 per spray can. Not a step you want to shortcut..... https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/por-15-self-etching-primer/automotive-self-etching-primers

Question: Was it shipped from the Bronco vendor or was it drop-shipped from the manufacturer/distributor?

FYI, the bracket is not ours, it is the bracket that is supplied with the AA kit. Best practices would be to round the the inside of the end cutout to eliminate any possible stress-risers. One of our Broncos has the same set-up, and the way it's been used I think it's been a pretty good test.

Rear output sliding gear backwards? Open the PTO cover and take a picture?