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Interesting. I didn’t realize this was uncommon. Here’s some pics..

My heater hose has a T fitting that routes to another T fitting which goes into 2 rear ports in the intake manifold. Is this just for extra cooling measures? It’s a 351W. Is it necessary? I’m looking to clean up the engine bay. Thanks for any info!

I just centered, thanks! There’s 4 shims in there. Bearing is 15117, the one mentioned in the video and it came in the kit. I just can’t figure out why I can just pull it all apart, yet everything looks bottomed out.

I can’t figure out what I’m missing. I’ve watched and followed a couple rebuild videos and I’m stuck on getting everything tight on the output shaft. Basically the problem I’m having is everything is sliding together to easy and comes right apart. I can’t get the bearings any tighter to hold...

Thanks! I’ll reach out to him. I had it at one point... I’ll probably find it once the new one shows up.

I’ve been googling… can’t seem to find a source. Anyone know where I can find the pin (or rod…) that goes between the shift rails on a J-Shift Dana 20. I seemed to have misplaced mine! DOH!

Ha.. it’s only a matter of time before I screw something up big time. I will call first transmission removal… a success. Still not sure my plan though lol

Appreciate it. I will be replacing and upgrading to a new transmission, so it’s got to come off too.

I’m removing a 4 speed top loader trans. Is it better to remove the trans from the bell housing first, or take out together? So far, I’ve already got the D20 out and the cross member bolts out. The 4 bolts from the back of the trans into the bell housing came out easy, but it’s not budging, I’m...

Thanks! I had to stop on the Dana 20 rebuild portion of my restoration. I have a couple 1 1/8 sockets and both don’t fit on that yoke nut. So I need to research plan B.

She’s now non op’d! Removed exhaust, driveshaft, and D20. Started tearing apart the D20 to get it cleaned, painted and rebuilt. Next, transmission removal and start scraping crud off the underneath!

Appreciate it. D20 is off and on the bench. We’ll see how it goes…

Hi- I’m looking at getting a rebuild kit for my D20. I don’t the history, operation (bronco is inop), or condition of the TC other than it leaks… so I figured it’s time to pull and rebuild. I was planning on taking it to a shop since I don’t have a press and was curious if anyone had a...

Thanks. I didn’t notice that piece at WH, I usually pick up stuff there to save on shipping. But grab that one from Tom’s.

I’m going to be doing a trans swap, but eventually I have some sheet metal I need to replace. To me, most seems salvageable except there’s a decent sized gap between drivers floor pan and lower firewall panel. Definitely the worst spot and the PO filled it with something that just peels right...

Any suggestions on rust repair? For the front floor pan, would it be best to replace with the one piece driver, center, and pass floor pan section? Or just patches? I’ll be looking for a shop to do it, I’ve got no welding skills. The rest of the body, I was just planning on...

I’ll take a look! Not much underneath in the way of stock... but then again, I’m not sure how those work or if they can be integrated with aftermarket fuel setup and 23 gal tank.

Thanks! Not me, I’m one the west coast, Northern California.

Drivers side floor no bueno. Probably got to replace the whole section since the PO had a panel system going on over the trans, and my plan was to replace the transmission anyway. Probably makes for an easier swap!

Got most of the tub liner out. Seems pretty solid, although I’m not a rust or sheet metal guy.. I know I’ve seen worse lol. I’m hoping a grinder to some rough spots and all the surface areas should be sufficient. Anybody with experience, would love some thoughts! Also found that evap...