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Any luck on the bolts? I'm in need of one for one of my KC's....

If you are rebuilding then get a 393 crank, recondition the stock rods and get yourself a set of 5.0 pistons. Lots of info out there on it, totally worth it. I've got a 5.8 with Trick Flow heads, RPM Air Gap and a Comp 518-8 cam and it makes around 4-450HP with plenty of low end grunt and...

What models are people using?

The eastwood flare tool is awesome, makes flaring fun and fast.

3" of lift and 4 link? ?:? You're going to have to do some welding with any 4 link install.

IIRC the explorer timing cover is different and must be used.

Yeah, that's what you have to do to clock an Atlas flat too... not the hack part, but the cutting a giant chunk of the frame out to clear a t-case part.

If you can hold you hand on it for a second then it didn't get hot enough to do damage. I've seen way more torn up stuff work perfectly fine. If it keeps you up at night swap them. I spy drum brakes, perfect excuse for a disk swap.

I think the only thing that outer snap ring does it keep the axle shaft pulled against the inner seal. Isn't super imperative as it's not like the axle shaft is going to go anywhere....

I think you basically need the coil buckets for the wider track width (I believe JD makes them) and the radius arms are the same. I went full on one tons and long arms with full hydro, but there are a ton of threads out there.

Another thought is what AF ratio are you using for idle conditions? If it is lean and mean you could fatten it up a bit to cool the engine down.

This pump - feeds my healthy motor just fine. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AC5LDIG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Precise 402-P2000 - ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP & KIT | Fits Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Merkur

As everyone has stated, mount the pump off the frame rail close to the tank and it will be fine. I can draw my tank bone dry with just the high pressure pump with my FiTech setup. With the stock tank and fuel cell I've never had issues with starvation even at odd angles, but I don't typically...

I would treat them like leaf spring perches. Get the axle under the truck, clamp the radius arms around the axle with the wedges and bushings in there and adjust your castor/pinion angle until you are happy and tack them in. Cycle the suspension and if you are happy with it, weld them in...

Yeah - your battery is mounted up at by the top of the radiator, I'm thinking that is going to be my solution.

The only exhaust leaks that matter are on the side with the sensor if they are before the sensor. Leaks afterwards don't really matter - I had issues with my setup working lose and the performance would gradually degrade until I let everything cool and tighten everything back up. I'm sick of...

No room there - I flattened out the floor for my suspension seat and my exhaust is right under it. I'm either going to move my battery higher in it's current mount or move it to the back - I've already for 0GA wire run back there as I thought I was going to put dual batteries back there for...

Thinking of relocating my battery to the pass side cowl but I'm not super interested in losing my heat for it. Does the heater box fit all the way to the top of the dash or is there room to fit one kinda half in and half out of the cowl? I have a narrowed front with a tube core support, I'm...

Well, last time things will look like this - it's been a faithful setup for nearly 10 years. Bring on the horror that resides inside this absolutely destroyed differential. The bearings were well beyond shot and the pinion was pretty much a joystick at this point - Here is proof you don't...

My test showed an immediate fail and the exhaust ripped the tube past the flange and created a mess. I immediately ordered up some v-band clamps and made a quick trip to the exhaust shop between plowing sessions. The trip was a ton of fun, there was a bunch of snow and my only issues were...