Search results

Thanks for the responses guys. I have the book on how to rebuild small block fords. On mine I'm doing the Edelbrock heads. This is for a friend who is building a nice 69 for his son. He can do without massive horsepower at 16. Best Wishes, Brian

I realize combustion chamber size could differ, causing a compression loss, mostly wondering if there were any bolt up problems.

What does it take to use a set of 351 heads on a 302 block. I realize the 302 head bolts are 7/16 and the 351 1/2, any otherconcerns other than using spacers for the head bolts? Thanks

Did you make sure you got the push rod length correct when you installed the BC booster. Chuck explained this to me and it seemed pretty important. Do you have a adjustable proportioning valve between fronts and rears? I understand this is sometimes needed with disc/drums. Is this a new...

Wow, a yellow 75 next door in SD. Here's my 75. Hate to see him out in the cold and snow, but he lost his garage spot. She won. B*tch. ;) Guess thats why the call it a Mach Won.

Sure, rub it in. -5 at 10:00 this morning, -18 with wind chill. Guess I'll go 'chill out' ;D Brian

Haven't decided yet for sure. The Crane link bar lifters run about $420 from what I seen. $300+ for the roller cam. Comp Cams retrofit uses alignment bars with the valley pan spider like the newer stock setups, just requires drilling and tapping two holes in the lifter valley, quite a bit...

I should have mentioned, from what I have read, the retrofit roller lifters are a little heavier than flat tappets, so your valve springs need to be considered. I'm about to bite the bullet (and cost) and go with a roller. There's probably cheaper ways to make HP, but if you've covered...

I've looked into this a bit for my 347 stroker. The only disadvantage is cost. If you're going all out, definately go with the roller cam.

Has anyone tried using early mustang mirrors. I put a set like these on my 67 fastback. The stock Bronco mirrors look very much like the orginal on the stang. I think the matching set looked much better.

I used blue RTV, no leaks. If you use your spindle socket with an extension put in backwards, it makes a good seal driver. Brian

I wound up spending about $1600 on my brakes. Chevy fronts, BC rear discs, BC booster and MC. Obviously I didn't scrimp, everything new including spindles. Highly recommend converting to discs, went from scary to awesome, well worth it. Brian

Had the same problem with mine. No amount of bleeding would give me a firm pedal. Took it in to be pressure blead and they noticed a leak where e brake lever attaches, don't know how I missed it. Exchanged them and they work great now. Just a thought. Brian

Yellow Broncos??? Yuck ;D ;D ;D

Same thing happened to me. Apparently when they rebuilt the calipers, they put the wrong threads on one side. Had to exchange the calipers. Good Luck, Brian

Beautiful ride ya got there. If you used 640 x 480 resolution, I could actually see it all at once. ;D ;D ;D

Looks exactly like the Beard Street RS with the optional adjustable headrests I have in mine. Kinda pricey but way nicer than stock. Check Chucks site, he sells them. Brian

Ditto, mine are MUCH better than the stock arms.

I feel your pain. My rear discs took three sets of calipers and 2 sets of brackets to get it right. Not even my fault, bad calipers, brackets too long. Hang in there, we all go through it sometimes (maybe always). Good Luck, Brian

Try this. http://www.ring-pinion.com/standard-carriers.shtml I think you've got it nailed. If one side is dragging, that's exactly what will happen. With an open diff that is. Brian