1966 U13 Roadster Build - from scratch

[gnpenning]

Looking forward to your build. Thanks for your service.

Your 748237 was 13 vehicles ahead of mine in production.

Let me know if you get your 66 registration to work. I tried a couple weeks ago and could not get it to work. Passed on what was happening and was told he would lmk when it was working again. Haven't heard back yet.

 

[snowymtnwolf]

Rear lower sides off. Broke the welds with bit from JBG. Works pretty good.

Now working front pan set off.


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[snowymtnwolf]

Just took this little piece of skinny metal off from behind pedals. It was between the weld points. I’m guessing it was to hold em together after the rust came on. Was this original and do I need to worry about replacing ?


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[THEBONE]

Original and unique to '66 I believe. But confirm that with a real 66 expert.

 

[okie4570]

Just took this little piece of skinny metal off from behind pedals. It was between the weld points. I’m guessing it was to hold em together after the rust came on. Was this original and do I need to worry about replacing ?


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"rain/water diverter", yes original to the early 66'.

 

[snowymtnwolf]

See that line between the floor pans?

Top is good. Bottom bad.

How do I join those ? Do I overlap with some hanging down from the top good part?


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[snowymtnwolf]

To be correct, when and where do I use seam sealer? And which type seam sealer?


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[NCSUWoj]

See that line between the floor pans?

Top is good. Bottom bad.

How do I join those ? Do I overlap with some hanging down from the top good part?


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It all depends on the pans you purchase. Some have a lip that extends up past your line you have drawn, some don't. To be safe, I would cut below the line and at the top of the grooves for the pan if you are just trying to get the pan out. You can always cut more later.
When fitting the new pan, I would clean up both pieces, drill holes in the new pan every 1.5" or so to plug weld or spot weld as some call it to the existing floor pan. Coat both areas in weld thru primer before welding up for extra protection.
I have in the past had to break a piece to weld to the existing body to allow for a "flange" if you will to weld the new pan to if it was too rusty to do it with the existing metal or if the new pan didn't have a flange on it that extended up high enough.

I like you rotisserie, where did you get that one from?

 

[snowymtnwolf]

"rain/water diverter", yes original to the early 66'.

Thx. You have expert eyes. I also spotted that in other 66s since you said about it


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[snowymtnwolf]

It all depends on the pans you purchase. Some have a lip that extends up past your line you have drawn, some don't. To be safe, I would cut below the line and at the top of the grooves for the pan if you are just trying to get the pan out. You can always cut more later.

When fitting the new pan, I would clean up both pieces, drill holes in the new pan every 1.5" or so to plug weld or spot weld as some call it to the existing floor pan. Coat both areas in weld thru primer before welding up for extra protection.

I have in the past had to break a piece to weld to the existing body to allow for a "flange" if you will to weld the new pan to if it was too rusty to do it with the existing metal or if the new pan didn't have a flange on it that extended up high enough.



I like you rotisserie, where did you get that one from?

Thx. Just did that.

CR 3000 from Best Buy Automotive Equipment
$1,000 w free shipping. Can’t beat that deal. Called for more expensive model and they talked me into that. Company out of Texas makes the CR3000. I like it.


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[snowymtnwolf]

What am I doing about the rust inside the middle of front door post?

Ignore or spray rust protector inside it ?

No way I can sand or blast it all.


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[73azbronco]

Does that screwed on vin match the frame number? I would think Ford never used bolts, only rivets. I had 3 66's, all riveted vin plates.

 

[JGbronc]

Does that screwed on vin match the frame number? I would think Ford never used bolts, only rivets. I had 3 66's, all riveted vin plates.

This has been a debate many times, but yes Ford did apparently use bolts/screws at times. Its possible that they ran out of rivets or had other issues and this was the way to keep the line moving. There have been numerous cases of the exact same screws being used.

 

[snowymtnwolf]

Does that screwed on vin match the frame number? I would think Ford never used bolts, only rivets. I had 3 66's, all riveted vin plates.

Yes matches. And others showed 66 with the same bolts as mine. Prob Friday afternoon and didn’t want to talk for rivets. Ha


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[66BlueGoose]

If you are trying to stay as original as possible, keep as much original metal as you can. Most of the reproduction metal comes from later templates, fits fine but it's different in a lot of the details to an early 66. I was able to save my entire front clip ( floor pans and all the way forward) glad I did.

 

[okie4570]

Does that screwed on vin match the frame number? I would think Ford never used bolts, only rivets. I had 3 66's, all riveted vin plates.

Look on the previous page, his bronco and mine were built either on the same day or the next, and both have the same Ford screws. My other two 66 both had riveted warranty plates like yours.

 

[snowymtnwolf]

I’ll use the Rust Fix spray for the door posts to stop any rust spread. And then I’ll use the Lord Fusor seam sealer AFTER I weld. — I thought you would use seam sealer before welding to help the metal bond. But from all the CB forum posts it appears that I use this post-weld.


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[stout22]

I know of a one owner 66 halfcab that has the same screws. I'm pretty sure I took a picture of the tag but I'm not sure where it is.

 

[snowymtnwolf]

Floor pans in. Now working on fit.


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[snowymtnwolf]

I have a 1/2 gap between floor pans and the lip of lick panel. I don’t think this is normal but it’s required IOT ensure the Outer Rocker Panel front lip snugs up correct to front door post.

Help !!!


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