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2nd Try on Rear Main Seal - Please Advise

muskrat

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 21, 2008
Messages
1,503
Yeah, I would definitely put some RTV on the ends before you reassemble. I rebuilt my 302 and although it runs pretty good it leaks oil and it is annoying as all hell. So I definitely feel your pain. I think that I may have possibly put the seal in backwards accidently and am just too frustrated to check because it is a PITA!

Having said that, all the assembly/rebuild books I used mentioned putting a dab of RTV on the ends of the seal before reassembly. Obviously make sure that the ends are clean with no oil so that the RTV bonds with the other side. Good Luck!

I'm with you on the annoyance of a leaking rear seal on a fresh engine. I rebuilt mine last winter. Even had an old time engine builder assist with the crank going in and rear seal. Still leaked. It runs great. I'm just gonna leave it alone.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Unless the bolt is too long, and bottomed out, it should come out easily.
If you do need to drill it out, you're going to wonder why you used grade 8 bolts. They are really hard and unnecessary for that application.
 

suthernboy

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
422
Loc.
Greenville, NC
Thanks for the replies guys... I hope I can get it out easily and it doesn't turn into a huge deal.

Patterdale, got my torque specs here.

http://boxwrench.net/specs/ford_289_302-5.0.htm

Those torque specs are incorrect. Never use them again. Buy a Ford service manual or a good repro service manual. As patterdale stated, Ford service manual specifies 7-9 for the 1/4" bolts and 8-11 for the 5/16" bolts. If a bolt on the side broke, that's one of the 1/4" bolts. At nearly 15 Ft/Lbs you were about double the bolt's normal working tension. Don't trust everything you see on the web.
 
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scmsltn

scmsltn

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Messages
104
Loc.
Reno, NV
I used those torque specs cuz I have seen others post them and use them. I will try to find an old manual next time.
 

pbets756

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2012
Messages
63
The broken bolt is no longer torqued to 15 pound once the head has broken off. It will come out easy using a left twist drill bit. It should spin right out as you start drilling. Its not like its a bolt that has rusted in then broke off. Paul
 

patterdale

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
1,247
Thanks for the replies guys... I hope I can get it out easily and it doesn't turn into a huge deal.

Patterdale, got my torque specs here.

http://boxwrench.net/specs/ford_289_302-5.0.htm

Got mine out of the ford shop manual that I bought off of eBay. There always seems to be a few sets out there. Hope this comes out easy for you. Maybe even an opportunity to score a new tool. Right angle drill? The reverse drill bit thing should work well.
 
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scmsltn

scmsltn

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Messages
104
Loc.
Reno, NV
Thanks guys for the help and suggestions... I appreciate it. I am not an expert mechanic but am trying to do everything myself on my bronco, one of the reasons I bought it.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
On your last thread, you said you had to buy longer bolts. Could they be too long now? If a bolt bottoms out, it will break pretty easily. Bolts will take more stretch than torsional stress.
 
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scmsltn

scmsltn

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Messages
104
Loc.
Reno, NV
I didn't notice any issues the first time I used the longer bolts... Before I used them I screwed them in to make sure they wouldn't bottom out when I installed the pan and gasket. But I thought the same thing so to be safe I ordered ARP bolts for the 302. Don't want to run into any more problems.

Thanks blubuc.
 

OkieAggie

Full Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
198
Loc.
Edmond
Left handed or reverse drill bits work great. As others have stated if it didn't bottom out it will likely come out with a reverse drill. If not a good easy out will..... and I do stress good!! Make sure your pan is good and flat also. The bolt holes tend to "dimple when you tighten them. I have never used torque specs on an oil pan. Tighten from the inside out and watch the gasket. As it starts to "pooch" out ever so slightly, you're good. Run through em twice.
 
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scmsltn

scmsltn

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Messages
104
Loc.
Reno, NV
SUCCESS!!! Bolt is out... Left twist but didn't get it but easy out did. Thanks for all the help guys. Now I will be installing the ARP bolts at 9-11 foot pounds. Will update tomorrow after things deal up as to whether or not the leak is fixed.
 

mnido

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2007
Messages
991
SUCCESS!!! Bolt is out... Left twist but didn't get it but easy out did. Thanks for all the help guys. Now I will be installing the ARP bolts at 9-11 foot pounds. Will update tomorrow after things deal up as to whether or not the leak is fixed.

Did you fix the leak ?!?!?
 

69Gumbi

New Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2016
Messages
24
Loc.
Tehachapi ca
This thread was supper helpful I was able to successfully install while motor in truck with no leaks. I did remove oil pickup tube and loosen all but front main cap. I tapped them with rubber mallet and then pulled down on crank. This however still did not alow enough room to slide seal around without carefully(with razor blade)removing hold down tab. Before I installed seal I ran a stiff straw up through and around crank this did result in peaces of previous seal to be dislodged and fall out. I then put motor oil on seal edge that contacts crank. I put dish soap on block side of seal edge. I used a fairly strong straw and cut as a shoe horn put dish soap inside and the seal slid around easily until last inch which needed alittle tap with flat punch. I clocked seal 1/8" cleaned seal ends with acetone. Cleaned block and main cap with acetone. Put motor oil on crank side of seal and dish soap on main cap side of seal. Installed in main cap clocked 1/8" opposite other seal. Cleaned ends with acetone and put very light coat of black rtv on both ends. placed light coat of anaerobic sealer on main cap near seal ends ( none on surface adjacent bearing sleeve) small amount along both angled edges that meet block. Installed and torgue to 30 ft lbs then torgued all main caps down in sequential order 30 then 50 then 70 ft lbs. placed more anaerobic sealer in angled gaps and smoothed in with finger. Placed oil pickup tube with new gasket and installed oil pan. Waited 24 hours and started no leaks so far. Hope this helps cutting that tab was the key for me. I tore first one tring to get in with tab on.
 
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