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3 speed RAT noise after rebuild

abrogate932

Newbie
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
31
Loc.
St Louis MO metro
I am looking for some insight to a transmission issue that only appeared AFTER a rebuild. Last year I had to pull my 302 due to a cracked bearing cap. While the engine was being machined, I decided it was a great opportunity to rebuild the 3.03 RAT transmission and Dana 20. I had started the tear down and rebuild process and then some BS happened in my life and I wasn't able to get things back together as quickly as I had hoped. I had to walk away from things for about five months while I sorted my life out. The trans was partially rebuilt at that time and I am wondering if I made some boneheaded mistake and just forgot something...

First, lets show some before and after pics just so I can get some attention:

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Looks good, right? Well, it doesn't sound good. I used a trans rebuild kit I got from Wild Horses. Everything went smoothly. I also installed a LUK clutch and replaced the clutch fork, pilot bearing and throw out bearing. I finally got the 302 built, painted and installed. I mated the trans and transfer-case and installed the exhaust. I went through the procedure for properly adjusting the clutch and visually verified the throw out bearing is not touching the clutch fingers. I have a "growl" when the clutch is engaged in neutral, 1st, 2nd and 3rd. I do not hear the growl in reverse. The growl immediately goes away with the clutch disengaged (pedal depressed). My Bronco has a Hurst floor shifter, which I had also fully disassembled, cleaned, greased and installed. My initial thought was that I have a shifter linkage issue and that a shift collar is hitting a synchro. This growl is present with the Dana 20 in every position as well. I am almost 100% certain it is coming from the transmission. I went for a test drive hoping to start breaking in my motor, but after less than a mile, I decided I am going to regret not addressing this noise. I plan on pulling the transmission and popping the top off to see if something is obviously wrong. I did take some pictures during the rebuild and was hoping someone else may look at them and possibly notice something I have overlooked. This is not the first trans I have rebuilt and it is by far the most simple that I have. However, I do not want my confidence to blind me.

First item that I had to replace for the rebuild was the throw out shaft/input bearing cover (not sure of the correct term)

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I was perplexed how bad this component was, as I had no obvious drivability issues before. Hard to believe, right? I found a numbers matching bearing cover and checked its critical dimensions and it matched. The groove on the tip was from the bearing, the groove in the middle was from the clutch fork. Someone had previously welded the cracked spring retainer clip.

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The 2nd/3rd shift rail freeze plug was damage when removing it and the only replacement that I could find was this one from Melling. It is not a perfect match and the dome required me to punch it flat. I do not believe the shift rail makes contact with this internally, however I wanted to show this incase I am overlooking it and and wrong.

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Everything looks correct in these pictures, at least to me. The only thing I notice is that the 2nd/3rd shift collar has two grooves on one end and one on the other. This is one item that has me scratching my head. This is the orientation the collar was in upon tear down, but the rebuild documentation I have does not indicate a direction.

Upon teardown, one of the synchro insert springs was broken and sitting in the bottom of the trans. This had me scratching my head, but they would be replaced later so I didn't dwell on it. I am wondering now if maybe a synchro insert or spring moved or something.

I have more pics, but I don't know that they would help. Other information that may be helpful is that I can shift into and drive in all forward gears and reverse. The noise is the worst in 2nd, moderate in 1st and faint in 3rd. You can hear the noise over the exhaust. I would call it a growl, but not really a grinding. I am using Royal Purple 75W90 Synthetic for oil and I have verified it is at the correct level.


Thoughts?

Thanks!
 

knack

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Messages
851
Your work sure looks great! But maybe the noise is the price you paid for getting rid of all the sound deadening goo surrounding the transmission.

Maybe draining the trans and transfer case fluid into clean pans would give you a clue? Bits of metal...
 

BOBS 2 68S

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
241
Loc.
Hudson, CO
Been a while since I was in a RAT trans, but everything looks good. Did it turn smoothly and shift when it was done before installed?
Using the engine stand to hold the trans while building--- brilliant!!
 
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abrogate932

abrogate932

Newbie
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
31
Loc.
St Louis MO metro
Your work sure looks great! But maybe the noise is the price you paid for getting rid of all the sound deadening goo surrounding the transmission.

Maybe draining the trans and transfer case fluid into clean pans would give you a clue? Bits of metal...
The loss of 1” of insulation was one of my first thoughts! I plan on draining it tonight and hope to not have a ton of glitter.
 
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OP
abrogate932

abrogate932

Newbie
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
31
Loc.
St Louis MO metro
Been a while since I was in a RAT trans, but everything looks good. Did it turn smoothly and shift when it was done before installed?
Using the engine stand to hold the trans while building--- brilliant!!
Using the engine stand makes it so easy. It works with the Dana 20 as well.

Everything turned smooth. It was perfect feeling through all gears. It’s one of the reasons I am grasping for straws, I wasn’t expecting any issues. All of my gears looked perfect too.
 

Jdgephar

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,357
Did you clean out everything out of the tail housing / adapter to the dana 20? I forgot to do that once and ended up having to replace the rear bearing again when it got pitted.

Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk
 
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abrogate932

abrogate932

Newbie
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
31
Loc.
St Louis MO metro
Did you clean out everything out of the tail housing / adapter to the dana 20? I forgot to do that once and ended up having to replace the rear bearing again when it got pitted.

Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk
Yeah, I ran the case and tail housing through my heated parts washer, the. sand blasted the housings. Every part was run through the heated parts washer as well. I am going to try to pull things apart tomorrow and see what’s going on.

Something I noticed when readjusting the Hurst shifter rods was that the 2nd/3rd wasn’t sitting vertical when in the neutral detent. I am not sure if the two shift fork rails could be swapped and cause the forks To be in the wrong place at the wrong time, but I don’t think this could be it because I can drive it and it shifts smoothly without binding.

I am leaning toward a 2nd/3rd synchro insert/spring issue.
 
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abrogate932

abrogate932

Newbie
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
31
Loc.
St Louis MO metro
I was able to drain the fluid and found an abundance of metallic flakes.



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I ran a magnet through it and none of it was magnetic. I was hopeful but that was short lived. I pulled the trans to find out what was going on.


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The 1st/reverse slider was not damaged upon rebuilding and I was disappointed to find a few of the teeth were chipped.


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The reverse idler was damaged even worse. I suppose the noise I was hearing was the reverse gear grinding away :( It doesn't make sense though as the noise was present when in first gear and there would be no way for the reverse gear to make contact.

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Lastly, I found the countershaft was shredded. This shaft was not perfect when I reinstalled it, but it was no where near this bad.

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What a mess. I found some replacement parts on eBay and have them on the way. I probably shouldn't rebuild this trans as I have been collecting parts to swap in a '74 C4. I promised my nephews that I would teach them to drive a manual in the Bronco before I swapped in the C4.
 
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abrogate932

abrogate932

Newbie
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
31
Loc.
St Louis MO metro
I'm back at it. I got the eBay RAT gear set and they were in great shape. The countershaft was nearly perfect. Aside from baked on gear oil grime, they are in better shape than my original set. I got another rebuild kit from Wild Horses and sat down and re-read the Ford 3.03 rebuild instructions, TWICE. I believe the original "growl" came from new needle bearings on the original worn countershaft. After removing it during teardown, the very apparent hot spots were suspect. I put the shaft in my Southbend Heavy 10 to turn it down to make it into a dummy shaft for rebuilding. The worn sections had displaced some shaft material and made high spots on the OD of the shaft. The new needle bearings were probably not happy with that and made noise while self clearancing...

I am certain the reverse gear damage is from improperly adjusting the Hurst shifter. The first step in adjusting the shifter is to set its location for reach by rocking the assembly forward or back. I did not adjust the shift rods appropriately after that and believe the 1st/reverse slider must have been grinding the reverse side on the reverse gear while I presumed I was in neutral. I probably didn't hear it during the initial cam break in period in the shop because I was under the hood with ear muffs on with the engine at 2000+ RPM for over 20 minutes. Regardless, here are some pics for reference that may help others:

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The green grease is Assemblee Goo for transmissions. Its awesome. However, I was slightly concerned that it may block the oil ports on the input shaft, so after I was done rebuilding, I used my heat gun to warm up the gears to around 120 F and was able to pour gear oil into both ports.

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Same grease, pic taken before outer ring was placed over bearings. When the heat was applied to the gearset, I probed the oil and reluctantly presumed the grease here would be melted away. I filled the trans with 75W90 GL4 without the top on and could verify the countershaft gear was submerged. I felt a noticeable drop in drag while spinning the input shaft once the temps hit over 100 F.

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My output shaft assembled. The 2nd/3rd shift collar has two grooves on one side. I never could find a reference to these after scouring the web, watching videos and reading the Ford manual. Upon original disassembly, the grooves were on the 2nd gear side, so that is how I reassembled. I took some measurements, but could not find a difference from side to side. The Ford manuals mention alignment marks for both shift collars. I think people get confused by this as there are no marks on anything. You are supposed to put your own marks on the pieces upon tear down.

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Reverse idler and shaft installed, countershaft with bearings and thrust washers set in place with a dummy shaft inside. The countershaft is not in place, just sitting there while you assemble the rest.

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I found it easier to set the shift forks in prior to installing the input and output shafts. Yes, it is awkward to get everything to drop in place, but it can be done this way.

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Input shaft WITHOUT bearing installed. From what I read, the 3.03 from different models can be removed/installed through the bearing bore on the front of the housing. That is NOT the case with the Bronco. The synchro teeth are too large and prevent that. This was a frustrating mystery to me upon my first tear down. You have to have the input and ouput shaft bearings removed to take the shafts in and out of the housing.

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Output shaft dropped in and shift forks on shift collars. No outer bearings still. You need to have them out to move the shafts around to get the forks on.


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Mostly assembled. My flashlight holder and interlock pin retriever was happy to help. He was bragging how he is probably the only 9 year old in his school to have helped build a transmission. I told him he is likely the ONLY person in his school to have ever seen the inside of a transmission!


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I made this little plate to hold the top detent spring in place for setting up the shifters without a top cover in place.

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Alternate view

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7/16" guide pin I made on my lathe to help align the tail housing adapter. This really helps when assembling, especially solo.

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I milled some flats on it to make removal easier. Now i'm just showing off.

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Lastly, I installed the shifters and dialed in ALL adjustments. It was embarrassing to see how wrong I had it. This was very helpful though. It shifts beautifully and I am certain the collars are in the correct spot when in neutral. This was also helpful for setting up thee stop bolts on the shifter so I didn't over or under shift the collars. I would highly recommend doing this if you have this setup and the transmission is out of the car.
 
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abrogate932

abrogate932

Newbie
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
31
Loc.
St Louis MO metro
Another thing that may be helpful to others dealing with the 3.03 and Dana 20:

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I made this out of some scrap metal I had laying around. It is an adapter for a transmission jack. I got tired of wrestling the offset weight of the t-case and battling the chains and ratchet straps while installing the transmission. I popped this out on my ironworker in under an hour start to finish. Its a little rough, but it helped SOOOOOO much. I just bolted it to the jack and the tailhousing where the crossmember mounts. I didnt even have to use a chain or strap, just two bolts. Complete game changer.


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Same guide pins from the transmission can be used on the bellhousing.

Hope this inspires someone.

Dave
 
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