351W lower head bolt coolant leak

[NYLES]

You deserve the relief......go aluminum easier to swap

Unless the shop that let these out is gonna work with ya????

 

[NYLES]

And there it is

I see it trying to go all the way to the edge?

 

[Timmy390]

The issue has gotten worse each time I've changed the gaskets so the crack must be growing with the removal and install process. Also would explain why I more and more problems after each install.

Alums will be one of the options I consider.

GT40P's are all over the local yard. Exploders on every row. Just need to pull them and get them gone through and I have the BH headers so no fitment issues.

It might all come down to $$$ and what I can afford.

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

Unless the shop that let these out is gonna work with ya????

The shop already said they would make it right and I'm sure they will. Going to go talk to them maybe this afternoon and see what we can come up with.

Tim

 

[NYLES]

Ive done Ps P=PITA, Need 'P" headers, need good muffler shop, need spare plug wires, "P" the head of the needy!

I wont do Ps again!!!

 

[Timmy390]

Lots of E7 heads out in the yard too. Maybe I'll get lucky and fine some GT40 non P's

Think I might know where a set is.......Who knows it they'll still be there and if they're rebuildable

Tim

 

[Glass Pony]

I've been following your threads and I'm glad you found it!
That kind of stuff would drive me nuts!

 

[Tiko433]

Nice ! Always good to find the gremlin and give him a swift kick in the Ass !

 

[Timmy390]

Well it wasn't easy but I pulled the set of GT40P's this AM off the 2001 Mountaineer.

Got'em for $30 each.....only cut my left hand twice...but cut it good.....

Tim

 

[Viperwolf1]

It was that damned trans dipstick bolt wasn't it?

 

[Timmy390]

It was that damned trans dipstick bolt wasn't it?

That was a pain for sure.....lol

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

Well it took longer than I had hoped but I got my 2001 Mountaineer GT40P heads back from the machine shop today. Pressure tested, surfaced, seats ground, valve job, new valve seals, new springs (Alex parts Vsk7G49-M up to a .540 lift) new freeze plugs, paint and bolt holes drilled to fit 351W.

Also upgrading from the Explorer/Truck/Van cam and going with Comp XE264HR-14
Duration @.SAE I 264 / E 270
Duration @ .050 I 212 / E 218
Lift with 1.6 rockers I .512 / E .512
114 LSA

I got the block back about 2 weeks ago (had the deck checked again just because of all the issues I had been having) and already have the short block built.

Would love to work on it this weekend but it's deer season.........

Tim

 

[bronconut73]

Well it took longer than I had hoped but I got my 2001 Mountaineer GT40P heads back from the machine shop today. Pressure tested, surfaced, seats ground, valve job, new valve seals, new springs (Alex parts Vsk7G49-M up to a .540 lift) new freeze plugs, paint and bolt holes drilled to fit 351W.

Also upgrading from the Explorer/Truck/Van cam and going with Comp XE264HR-14
Duration @.SAE I 264 / E 270
Duration @ .050 I 212 / E 218
Lift with 1.6 rockers I .512 / E .512
114 LSA

I got the block back about 2 weeks ago (had the deck checked again just because of all the issues I had been having) and already have the short block built.

Would love to work on it this weekend but it's deer season.........

Tim

Oh Timmy....dilemas, dilemas...chasing white tails or chasing threads...haha...

So glad you got everything ready. Really glad you upgraded the cam. Little extra pony never hurt nobody Bud!

 

[Timmy390]

After chasing W-tails with no results, I chased some threads and got the heads on.

Called Comp and they said the factory push rods would work as they recommend buying their brand in stock length. So heads on and valve train are setup. I did cycle everything several times and it all looks good.

Just put the timing cover, water pump and H-bal on.

Off to the woods once again for a few days here shortly. Not sure why as it's 80 degrees out. If anything I'll do some scouting for the youth hunt coming up next weekend.

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

Well engine is back together and installed. It fired up and ran like crap. Stupid me, set the timing at 10 degrees ATDC and not BTDC when I assembled. Easy fix and things are set correctly. Runs great.

My bad luck comes back around again. The D side has a "tap tap tap" in the top end. Pulled the valve cover off and checked the rockers and pushrods. Everything looks and felt good. Nothing loose. Put on a valve cover I have with the top cut out of it and fired her back up. Everything is oiling correctly and nothing appears to be loose. Can't hear the sound on the P side it's nice and quiet and can't hear anything below. It's clearly D side top end tap and not a knock.

Used an automotive stethoscope with a "probe" end and placing it on the rocker hold down bolt head, I found the tapping to be on #6 and #7. It appears to be 2 lifters doing all the tapping. All the bolt heads are the same sound but those 2 and they're loud.

Indication is it's a lifter issue so ordered new set of lifters today.

Tim

 

[Blue Bastard]

Damn brother, I thought I was the only 1 that can lose a coin toss 4 times in a row.
Sorry to hear about your luck.
I would have rolled that truck off a cliff by now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Timmy390]

Damn brother, I thought I was the only 1 that can lose a coin toss 4 times in a row.
Sorry to hear about your luck.
I would have rolled that truck off a cliff by now!

Appears to be 100% my fault on this one. I slipped in a bigger cam this time around when I reassembled and didn't change out the 20 year old lifters like I SHOULD have.

I only hope someone reads all this and learns from my mistakes and bad luck.

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

Just wanted to circle back around on this. Deer season is over, Christmas too so finished up the last of the few things I had to do to take a test run.

The lifter issue turned out to be a combination of the engine having non stock length push rods (they were short) and rockets that have some 200K on them thus some wear and tear. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272152 I'll get new rockers down the line this summer.

Ended up not using the lifters I bought. Stock replacements my a$$. The top of the new lifters where the push rods set is recessed so stock push rods are too short. I bought Elgin brand and they appear to be the same design as the Speed Pro's but not confirmed.

While playing with the valve train, I noticed an oil leak. Though it was the rear main so pulled the engine (it was half way out already) and found it was the oil pan gasket. The old one piece Fel-Pro gasket was blue and the new Fel-Pros are gray. Same part number but the section where it goes over the main cap is longer (too long IMO) on the new one. It does not seal well. So I put the old gasket back on and leak is gone.

Did a bad thing. I put the engine on my stand. After draining the oil, I rotated it up side down to make the oil pan gasket change easier. Yeah, smoked like a SOB on first startup. The oil still in the pan dumped into the bores behind the pistons and oil seeped into the combustion chambers.

Took her for a drive just a bit ago. Everything seems fine for now. The new cam can be felt. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270255 It runs a bit different now with the GT40P's and the new cam vs. E7's and stock cam....LOL

Fingers crossed this is the end of my bad luck on this project but I need to put a few miles on her before I can say DONE.

Did squeeze in a Cherokee wiper conversion during all this.

Tim

 

[gnpenning]

Been waiting to see how things are going for you. Love hearing good news!! Sounds like you have everything under control and should be having fun driving it around.

Keep us posted.

 

[bronconut73]

Timmy,

More details on the difference in power.
Is it mostly top end?
Any difference in bottom end torque where most of us live?

So glad you got to take a drive and notice some of your improvements. You deserve some good luck man.