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5.0 EFI Starts but wont idle....help!

HalfBreed

Newbie
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
5
Where to begin? 1974 Bronco with a 1993 Mustang 5.0 EFI

I needed a new battery the other day, as my 10 year old Optima finally died. I replaced it with a Deka Extreme AGM. All went well, started, ran, checked the alt output...everything was fine. Bronco ran great for about 10 minutes while I checked various parts of the charging system. I parked it and went in the house. Three days later I fired it up to move it into the garage to remove the top and now it wont idle and runs poorly. It starts just fine, every time. It revs up to about 2000 just like normal and when it comes back down it just falls on its face. Sometimes it dies completely, and other times it will chug along and rev up to 2000 grand every 5-10 seconds falling to barely running in between.

Here are the specs.....

1993 5.0 short block with a Explorer 5.0 upper. Painless 5.0 Bronco harness with stock exhaust manifolds. Its running a stock 1993 Mustang ECM.

I pulled codes and found all the ones that are expected.
31-67-81-82-84-85 There is no EGR or Thermactor or Auto Trans.

It will not perform the KOER test at all. I have run the engine with every single sensor and input unplugged at one time or another and not one of them tripped a code. I tested every sensor at the sensor and at the 60 pin. Every one of them tested within parameters. IAC-Both O2s-TFI-MAP-MAS-TP-IAC-ECT-ACT...I swapped out the following parts with known good or new just as a test...Coil-TFI-TP-and the ECM. I checked all the pins at the ECM that were supposed to have power and ground or VRef...all good. I unplugged (one at a time) Every single sensor just to make sure that none were failing in a way that could ground short or short to power. No Change. I changed the fuel pump because it had a lifetime warrenty...40 PSI wile running and dips no lower than about 34. I pulled the dist cap and put the engine at TDC to make sure the timing chain did not crap out on me.

It will run if you hold the throttle open but it back fires through the throttle body and sputters and does not want to run.

I am really at a loss...I don't know anything else to check. Just as a background on me, I am well above your backyard mechanic. I worked as an electrical tech at Ford for about 10 years. I know my way around, and that makes this even more frustrating.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
OP
OP
H

HalfBreed

Newbie
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
5
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 the standard 5.0 HO or 351W firing order.
Stock Cam.

Its been running fine for years...like I described in the main post, I changed the battery and everything was working great. Didn't start it for about three days and now it wont run. I have done nothing to is since the battery change. It ran fine for 10 minutes or so, then the next time I go to start it up it falls on its face and now will not idle. I have to think that it is a part that has failed. I have checked them all and come up with nothing.

I checked for vacuum, and when I can get it to hold 2000 rpm steady, it is pulling about 18 to 19 in/lbs of vacuum. So I am fairly certain it is not a vacuum leak. I checked all the vacuum lines and the intake and gasket. All check fine, no leaks.
 
OP
OP
H

HalfBreed

Newbie
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
5
Again I want to thank everyone for the input on my problem....

Update....

I decided to the go back to the beginning and start with the base problem.

Wont idle or rev up smoothly with out backfiring through the throttle body.

Unplugged the Mass Air Flow and NOW IT IDLES...albeit very poorly.

Unplugged the Idle Air Controller and NOW IT IDLES BETTER...still poorly though.

Now that I can turn the idle screw and make the engine idle I can properly check for vacuum leaks. I get a smooth run and idle speed pickup with spraying under the upper plenum near injector #7 or #8.

Tomorrow I will pull the upper plenum off, or as my wifes father likes to call them Plentium, and see if I have what I suspect is an intake leak.

Thanks again for pointing me back to the basics and forcing me to realize that just because I checked it seven times, doesn't mean I shouldn't check it eight....LOL
 
OP
OP
H

HalfBreed

Newbie
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
5
I figure I should post the outcome of this repair, if only because no one else ever does.

Removed the upper plenum and found that one of the vacuum caps sealing one of two ports on the bottom side of the plenum was cracked. I could not see or feel or hear this vacuum leak due to the engine not idling. This was the vacuum port facing the rear of the engine dead center under the overhanging portion of the plenum. I forgot those were even in there...lol.

Thanks again for the responses to my dilemma.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Removed the upper plenum and found that one of the vacuum caps sealing one of two ports on the bottom side of the plenum was cracked.
I believe that is the intended function of those vacuum caps. That is, to crack and create a vacuum leak at the worst possible time, and in the worst possible place. Just think of that SOB that designed them, laughing his a$$ off at all of us, still thinking we can rely on a product that's designed to fail!!!:p:cool:;D

That's why I drilled and tapped all my unused vacuum ports for pipe plugs.
 
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