5.0L HO Swap into my 1970! Random Questions?!!?

[Mjadams86]

Hey there. So, I'm tired of my carb, lack of power, always eating up belts and all the other stuff that comes along with an old 302. I found a wrecked 92 mustang with a 5.0 HO in it so i decided to grab it and all the parts off it that it would take to make the swap. I'm currently still working on the wiring (There's tons of info online about that so none of my questions are about that). But I am running into a few problems that I want to address before i get in too deep with the swap so I thought I would throw them up here because I know SO MANY of you have done this swap before and had to figure things out as you came accross them.

I'm starting off with a 1970 Bronco with a stock 302 and a C4 that I put in a few years ago.

The mustang is a 92 5.0L HO auto with a A9P comp. It had been in an accident where it was hit upfront. The drive pulley was damaged and water pump ruined so I will be replacing those but I did hook up the batt. and got it to turn over so I dont believe there is any damage to the crank.

I think I have the wiring figured out but I have a few questons about general function on and swap tech.

1. Do I need to run the Bronco oil pan on the 5.0L? If i swap, do i have to do anything to the oil pick up?

2. I took out the throttle linkage and pedal from the mustang. do you suggest using the stock bronco pedal or the one from the stang?

3. What have you guys done about using the radiator? I have a good bronco 3 core radiator and would like to reuse. How do I run hoses or mod the rad? What have you guys figured out that worked for fan clearance? ( not trying to break the bank with an electric fan here)

4. how do i use that 5.0L alternator in the bronco? what voltage regulator should i use? Bonrco or mustang?

5. i'd like to use the mustang PS pump. is it possible?

6. What about removing the smog and ac, how do I use the tenisioner? How to route the belt?

If you have ANY tips as all please let me know. I did do my homework and looked up tons of articles about this swap. most of them focused on the wiring and the moving of the radiator for clearance.

Thanks. I'm looking forward to your input.
-Matt

 

[rguest3]

The early mustang 5.0 swap is the most popular with the Explorer 5.0 a closing second.

1. Yes - Use the bronco oil pan.

2. Bronco Pedal can be modified to work with Cable.

3. You can use your current radiator. BC Broncos has hoses to work for 5.0 Swap.

4. Use the Mustang Alternator with Internal Regulator. Wiring is pretty straight forward too. BC has these diagrams

5. Mustang / Ford pump wil work with Adaptor fitting at back of pump for stock hoses and stock Power Steering box. Check with Bronco vendors for this fitting.

6. Remove the Smog Pump from the mustang serpentine system. Install an AC delete bracket with pulley in place of AC compressor. Use Mustang tensioner and install 17" reverse Rotation Mechanical fan with spacer. You will not have to move radiator forward at all.

 

[Broncobowsher]

1) either. Bronco pan is probably the better choice since you have it. The extra drain plug of the mustang pan makes a mess during oil changes. Use the pickup that matches the oil pan. Yes, there are differences between the mustang and the Bronco pickups. You can delete the new dipstick with a small welch (freeze) plug. Good parts stores will have them. New parts stores that can't find anything without a computer will be useless.

2) Bronco pedal will adapt nicely

3) Bronco radiator. Use a cross over lower hose (muffler pipe or a super duty lower hose) and there are various upper hose solutions that also work

4,5,6) My suggestion at this point is to get an Explorer front accessory drive. Yours is already damaged. The mustang drive is a tough fit in front of the radiator. The Explorer stuff is such a nice package in a Bronco. The fan cools the Bronco, the alternator is solid, the power steering pump is fairly good as well.

 

[EFI Guy]

4,5,6) My suggestion at this point is to get an Explorer front accessory drive. Yours is already damaged. The mustang drive is a tough fit in front of the radiator. The Explorer stuff is such a nice package in a Bronco. The fan cools the Bronco, the alternator is solid, the power steering pump is fairly good as well.

I have to agree with this.^

If for some reason you decide to stick with the Mustang front dress, then I would ditch the Mustang alternator and put a 3G in it's place.

 

[Mjadams86]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'd like to keepisode this swap as cheap as possible because, money is always tight and there is a million other things I want to do. The one wore alternator might be the way to go. And I didn't know there was a pulley kit I could buy. Gonna check that out. But if b I find a good explorer I'll try and salvage that. It may be hard to find though. Also, what fan set up did you guys go with?

 

[DirtDonk]

And just to throw out a random, non-EFI related question...
What are you doing the 11th of April? You coming to the Wild Horses "Roundup" at our new shop in Lodi?

Just checkin' in case you were not aware. I just saw you were in Northern CA which could still be far enough away to be a pain, but would love to see as many there as possible.

Thanks. Hijack over for now.

Paul

 

[Mjadams86]

Sorry I took so long to get back to you. I'm going to try to make it. My bronco isn't running very great right now but I'll working on it every day. Lodi is a ways away but I'm always down for a good time!

Why is the 3g so much better than stock mustang?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Stock mustang is probably the 2G. The push on electrical connection for the output is well known for burning up.

 

[EFI Guy]

Stock mustang is probably the 2G. The push on electrical connection for the output is well known for burning up.

Correct. I've seen quite a few melted down.

Also the 2g is only 60-65 amp IIRC. The 3G is available in 90 or 130 amps. You'll need to grind the alternator bracket for clearance, but it fits.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I would rather have a 1G before using a 2G. For the same output, the 1G is less expensive and way more friendly. Better engineered as well.

2G is an expensive way to get a poorly engineered internal regulator.

3G is nice, but you need wiring upgrades. You cannot push 90A or more through the stock charge wire.

4G is paired with the Explorer front drive.

Last I knew they were upwards of 6G, never got into those. I know many of these later ones will start putting the engine computer in charge of the charging.