'71/'76 Badass Bronco Bronco Build

[PDQ]

Not sure why there are zero posts about the E-Stopp. Maybe cause it’s expensive and people don’t wanna post about how they do it, I dunno. I do think it’s pricey and I took a while to decide that’s what I wanted and looked at everything else available and seems like the best for what it is.

I really struggled with where to put this thing. It’s huge. A perfect spot might’ve been where the steps are on the drivers side if I didn’t have steps. This spot seemed to be the best choice for me.

I used a 4” wide aluminum stock to spread across the channels and mounted with stainless #14 screws into the channels. It’s plenty. My first version of the bracket, I forgot about the additional cable bracket and so had to make another that’s longer to support that.
View attachment 914788 View attachment 914789

There is no channel there so I had to make it find a bracket and I found a great one. Attached, not perfectly cause I had already drilled my holes for the bracket mount so it’s off center but it works.
View attachment 914790
Going through to the bed, I found these fantastic bolts that I used to mount my fuel pressure regulator in the drivers front. They are so low profile (yet still strong) that you don’t even see them there and you’d prob not notice these when done either.
View attachment 914791
My console will be shifter slightly and will be right at them.

Tested and works great. Need to decide how I want to wire it though. It’ll be active only when accessories are on, but there is a safety wire to connect if you want to not let it engage when the car is running and that seems kinda dumb. If I start it up I’d have to shut it off to disengage the brake? Maybe I can find something. I could probably wire up something from the ecu that gives power while in motion, like speed over X and that’s prob what I should do, although what if your brakes go out…don’t you want this to work? It would lock up the rears though so maybe I wouldn’t.

These are the bolts:
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/90357A015
This is the support:
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/1030A39

Great thread and thank you for the details. Truly amazing ride you have put together! I picked up the Powerstopp and like your mounting solution as it does take up some real estate, but my question is with the length of the actuator did you run stock length or shorter brake cables? I currently have the extended length cables on the stock setup due to a lift kit, but it seems the connection point will be moved to the rear with the powerstopp. Thanks for any input.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Looks great!

 

[ba123]

Great thread and thank you for the details. Truly amazing ride you have put together! I picked up the Powerstopp and like your mounting solution as it does take up some real estate, but my question is with the length of the actuator did you run stock length or shorter brake cables? I currently have the extended length cables on the stock setup due to a lift kit, but it seems the connection point will be moved to the rear with the powerstopp. Thanks for any input.

The cables I used for the ebrake I got from MP Brakes and are universal and I believe they are made by Lokar.

 

[ba123]

Here's my console all done and my head unit start screen:

I think I wrote on another thread that I've got it connected to my ecu and using Shadow Dash to show some guages that I don't want/can't get on my Dakota Digital, like Trans Pressure and engine specific data. Still configuring the guages though.

 

[ba123]

Here's a nice shot of the guages connected and an updated config:

 

[Oldtimer]

oil 80 PSI @ 1500 RPM?

 

[ba123]

oil 80 PSI @ 1500 RPM?

Yeah, a little high I guess, but it's a high volume pump/high pressure oil pump.

Prob unnecessary, but what I chose forever ago. I'm sure the mains brace I put in was overkill as well, but so be it! It was only money!

 

[ba123]

Just went for a test drive after adjusting my throttle/TV ratio and redoing the pressure setting.

First off, I could NOT get it right with the spacer. It was always too loose at idle, no idea why. So, I decided to just adjust the slack out of it and now it seems perfect! Still kinda low at idle, but seems good at what @bronco italiano told me is good at 2200 (35psi).

It now shift pretty well.

I passed a mustard yellow EB on Kennedy RD, which was cool,, if you're on here, lmk!

 

[bronco italiano]

Good to hear. My pressure is very low at idle. The clutches need fluid when your working them. Great work!!!! One step closer.

I went to the DMV yesterday since I feel I'm somewhat close to getting to road test.

When I bought the Bronco, I started the process of transfer--I brought the title and all forms to the DMV but never got an inspection as this '71 Bronco was all parts and not gonna be able to get inspected. I paid taxes and transfer fees back then at least though and a year of registration but then nothing. I had a letter from the DMV a year later reminding me to complete but that's all.

Sooo, I bring this stuff in there, stressed and worried how it was gonna go. I explain to the lady who looked over my paperwork and literally laughed out loud at my purchase price shown from over 20 years ago.

Anyway, she said they had to start everything all over again since it all dropped off the system. It took them about an hour of me standing there, even though I filled out all the forms for them just in case. Anyway, I'm not totally sure what I paid since I was given ZERO detail, but I'm guessing I paid 23 years of non-op fees, which sucked, but I guess could've been worse.

I received a 1-day slip to operate for an inspection and a 1-day slip to operate for a weight scale..

Progress.

This State is finding anything to hit us on. Ridiculous that you had to pay back/non-op fees.

 

[Ol'Blue]

Great news! I remember seeing your rig over a year ago and being impressed with all the tech. Nice work and congrats!

Beautifull rig.

 

[ba123]

Drove to the weight station and did some tuning, Trans got super super hot and pulled over...not happy about that. I changed my fan settings but it was already hot...we'll see. My cooling lines go right next to my header flange so I'll put a shield and see if that does anything.

Drove really nice through the mid range. I got going pretty fast but not sure how so since my speedo was off a bit. Didn't realize the Dakota Digital speedo needs a measured mile to calibrate. Thought it would use GPS on the app.

---
That was yesterday.

Today I went back to the dmv with all my stuff. Vehicle type changed from pickup all docs checked out, she handed me license plates and told me that the last time I was overcharged and will get $269 sent back to me. TRIPLE SCORE!!!

 

[ba123]

Some new pics as well.

 

[Speedrdr]

Sweet! Love the color you chose. And there’s NOTHING better than finding out youre getting money back from the government.

Randy

 

[bronco italiano]

Really turned out beautiful!!!
I look forward to when you shake it down and can really enjoy driving your bronco.

 

[Ol'Blue]

I need one of those center consoles!

 

[ba123]

I need one of those center consoles!

Dan Carr of Carrparts, is The Man!

He nailed that exactly how I asked, he also made my kick panel electrical boxes, and also made my glove box.

carrscustomparts@gmail.com
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100082399045171

He isn't cheap but he's more than worth it.

 

[ba123]

I also updated my start screen today. The plain Ford logo was a nice touch but a tad boring.

Nice touch, right? God, I love this stuff! And yes, that is my Bronco.

 

[DirtDonk]

Methinks you’re having way too much fun with this!

 

[ba123]

My engine tuning experience is limited but I'm making progress on that. The "autotune" features of Tunerstudio and Megasquirt definitely help, at least for the mid range.

I'm really struggling trying to get my idle right and I did take a step backwards today with it but hoping the rain passes quickly and I can get back to it. In the meantime, there are a few other things to do.

The video sound doesn't do it justice and again, still working on it, but sounds pretty good for being so early on and only about 15 total miles of driving so far.

 

[ba123]

Chasing Idle...

I wish more people would post about tuning, so I'm gonna try to post some as I go along and figure stuff out. My driving is pretty good, I do need to get comfortable enough to take it on the freeway where I can hold a steady length of road without speeding. Seems as though I put my trans temp in the wrong spot (thanks @Broncobowsher for the guidance) and after searching I see you do not want it in the cooling exit cause that is fluid coming straight from the converter. I have a high stall, non-lockup converter and when it's hot, it is HOT! Yesterday on my drive I think I saw over 260° and I'm sure it will get hotter than that so I need to know the temp of my pan fluid to make sure all is ok.

Seems like a common theme is chasing a non-chasing idle. It'll make you crazy listening to that oscillation. And my poor neighbors have to listen to it and think I'm revving the engine. Sorry!

Seems like a challenge to figure out what is the cause and what is the symptom and a vicious loop of idle doom!

Here is what I'm looking at now. I've ruled out my IAC valve by turning it off. So, has to be fuel or timing. I tried timing but it just doesn't want to stay where I put the timing, so must be fuel.

It looks to me like a possible inverse relationship between the AFR and idle and they keep flip flopping. So, I leaned out my AFR target at lower rpms and increased my fuel to match where those paths crossed to see if I'm onto something or not.

Gotta wait until tomorrow to try though.