• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

72 Bronco Rebuild

OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
Thanks for the input....

Rusty - I like to wear a tie while working on the Bronco. I couldn't figure out what you were talking about then I remembered one of the pics had my shoes in it. LOL I was actually on my way to work one morning and grabbed a quick pic as I was walking out the door. LOL

HGM - You've pinpointed my biggest fear..... I'm still worried about the body work. I was hoping to replace a number of parts then send it out to a body shop to be finished. A friend of mine had his Dart body sandblasted knocking all the rust out of it then welded in replacement parts. I was thinking of doing the same thing. Guess I should start looking for a better looking tub. So the big question, does it matter what year? Do all the tubs from 66-77 fit the exactly the same?

Does anyone have any ideas about building some sort of frame/cradle (maybe with wheels) to set the body on? Or should I just plop it on the ground.... I've been thinking of making something out of 2x4's or angle iron....

Thanks!
 

rcmbronc

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 15, 2003
Messages
2,727
Loc.
Tomah WI
Here is a wood cart I built.
 

Attachments

  • BRCART2.JPG
    BRCART2.JPG
    120.2 KB · Views: 104
  • BRCART.JPG
    BRCART.JPG
    125 KB · Views: 98
  • 66BR29.JPG
    66BR29.JPG
    178.1 KB · Views: 115
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
Hey RCMBRONC.... Great pics!! That's awesome!!! Thanks!! Think I'll try and build one like you did!

BTW, nice garage. I'm so jealous!! Wish I had a nice big garage to work in! I'm crammed into a two car townhouse garage!! Imagine my joy!

Cheers,
BRD
 
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
72 (77) Rebuild

Well, it was a banner day today. I rented a transmission jack from Sunbelt rentals cause none of my friends own a jack. Cost me $31 for a day. I think it was WELL worth it!! It was big, heavy duty and weighed a ton. My poor civic had to schlep it around today.

I removed the transmission (6 bolts), transfer case and support member all in one. The jack handled it very well. No issue tipping at all. That was the good news. The bad news, I didn't remove the 4 wheel drive shifter and didn't have enough clearance to slide the transmission back so I had to pull the shifter out first. Who knew.... Cost me about an hour trying to drop the transmission. Guess I'll know better next time.

Anyway, the transmission/transfer case is out and the support member has been removed. I'm not sure what's transmission and what's transfer case. So the question I have is where do I disconnect the transfer case?

Thanks,
BRD
 

Attachments

  • 102_0752.jpg
    102_0752.jpg
    249 KB · Views: 60
  • 102_0751.jpg
    102_0751.jpg
    247 KB · Views: 66
  • 102_0750.jpg
    102_0750.jpg
    262.2 KB · Views: 65
  • 102_0749.jpg
    102_0749.jpg
    215.5 KB · Views: 70
  • 102_0748.jpg
    102_0748.jpg
    227.4 KB · Views: 70
  • 102_0747.jpg
    102_0747.jpg
    270.9 KB · Views: 75
  • 102_0746.jpg
    102_0746.jpg
    258.4 KB · Views: 78
  • 102_0753.jpg
    102_0753.jpg
    226.4 KB · Views: 71
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
Just a quick note.... After my post I was "reminded" by my little brother that I did NOT remove the transmission all by myself! I had help! My little brother and nephew came over tonight to give me a hand. Without their help this would have been very difficult! Thanks guys!

Happy little brother?
 

Speedychevy

New Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
1
I have the same pitman arm puller you have. Since I was putting a new drop down pitman arm on my bronco I went ahead and cut the old pitman arm down on one side so I could get the puller to fit. I used a cut off wheel and it went pretty quick. The new pitman arm is smaller in diameter and will fit with the puller if I have to remove it later.

No way I was going to hammer mine off. I needed the puller and a 3' cheater bar to get it off.
 

Zillacon

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2007
Messages
848
Loc.
Hackin Away!
As far as the pitman arm goes put your puller on and tighten it up with pressure. The take a BFH and hit the edge of the arm around the splines and it should come off. If that doesnt work do the above but before the hammer heat the arm up around the spline where the puller isnt touching so you dont take the hardness from the puller then smack it. Grab a wrag to cool it off instantly to prevent seal leakage. It usually wont take much heat to get it to move. Good Luck.
 
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
72 (77) Rebuild

Another banner day today!! After a week of being sick and getting nothing done on the Bronco, I was back at it this weekend. My little brother came over today and we knocked out a number of items.

I collected an engine stand (thanks Drew) and an engine lift (thanks Tim) during the week and we were able to pull the engine, drop the gas tank (finally, btw it's an after market 23 gal tank) and remove the remaining body bolts. I was able to finally get the rear bumper off yesterday and let me tell you it kicked my butt!

After pulling the engine I decided not to use the stand as I don't think the engine will travel well on it. So we built a small cradle for the engine. I'll load it into the back of my truck for the trip to the shade tree mechanic in PA. Hope to drop it off next weekend. Cost will be $600 in labor and $325 for rebuild kit. Still need to price cleaning and painting the engine.

Priced rebuilds for the transmission. Aamco wants $1800 for a 12/12 (12k miles / 12 months), $2100 for a 36/36 and some higher number for a lifetime warranty (he would have had to call someone to price it). I asked about just replacing the seals and they wanted $1100 for that. Discouraged I poked around a little more and found a place in Vienna, VA. They want $175-$200 to replace all the seals. The guy told me they would pull one or two drums (dunno what that means) and see if they are worn. If they are worn a complete rebuild would cost $750. I'm thinking that's the route for me. Before I removed the transmission I took off the bottom pan and found a loose screw in it. Not good....

The only thing left to do is drill out the spot welds on the window frame and build a cradle to hold the body.

I need to purchase a welder. I've been looking at the Lincoln Easy Welder 135. I want to stay away from the flux core and go with wire and gas. I'd rather have a until that runs on 110 volts. Does anyone have any experience with this unit? Or have a suggestion for a welder?

Thanks,
BRD
 

Attachments

  • 102_0754.jpg
    102_0754.jpg
    196 KB · Views: 77
  • 102_0755.jpg
    102_0755.jpg
    287.4 KB · Views: 76
  • 102_0756.jpg
    102_0756.jpg
    213.8 KB · Views: 70
  • 102_0757.jpg
    102_0757.jpg
    235.2 KB · Views: 72
  • 102_0758.jpg
    102_0758.jpg
    242.3 KB · Views: 78
  • 102_0759.jpg
    102_0759.jpg
    191 KB · Views: 70
  • 102_0760.jpg
    102_0760.jpg
    249 KB · Views: 73
  • photo44.jpg
    photo44.jpg
    88.8 KB · Views: 65

Scoop

Contributor
Have Bronco, Will Travel
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
10,752
Loc.
Cuchara, CO
Got my C4 rebuilt by a small shop in Manassas Park a few years ago for about $450 including a mild shift kit. It's held up very well. Not sure what his prices are today. He resealed the D20 also at no extra cahrge. I am about get a quote from him on my C6 out of my '78 Bronco. If you are interested I can get his phone number for you. Aamco sells warranties, not transmission work!
 
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
Hey Scoop - Yes, please pass me his phone number when you get a chance. Could you also let me know what he's charging for the C6?

BTW, I checked out your Mid-Atlantic website. It appears to be having issues. I tried to join the club but the server is having some sort of run-time errors.

Cheers,
BRD
 

Scoop

Contributor
Have Bronco, Will Travel
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
10,752
Loc.
Cuchara, CO
Hey Scoop - Yes, please pass me his phone number when you get a chance. Could you also let me know what he's charging for the C6?

BTW, I checked out your Mid-Atlantic website. It appears to be having issues. I tried to join the club but the server is having some sort of run-time errors.

Cheers,
BRD

OK I stopped by this afternoon and talked to them. They still charge $450 but that's just for labor. Parts extra. A full blown C6 rebuild with labor, shift kit, extra clutches and new torque converter will be about $1100. A full blown C4 rebuild a little less. He will do a build where he just replaces parts that need replacing and that would be anywheres from ~$800 to ~$1000. So your guy does sound cheaper. But if you still want to check them out, it's "Transmission/Exchange", 8297 Centreville Road in Manassas Park. 703-368-4840 - ask for Dave.

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll check into the website issues. We are in the process of changing web-hosting services so that may be the issue right now.
 
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
I've been away from the Bronco for a week now. My POS daily driver (01 Civic) failed inspection. The lower control arm bushings are shot along with a (very minor) bubble in my tire. The shop that failed me wanted $355 to replace the bushing. PER SIDE!! They wanted $710 to do both of them. I purchased the part from a local auto store for $13 each and paid a shop to press both of them in for $45. So a $710 repair bill was reduced to $71 by doing the work myself. Of course I still need to get a front end alignment and replace two tires.... Norther Virginia is just TOO expensive!
 
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
One more question... I cut out 29 spot welds but the window frame is still not moving. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get the front windshield frame out?

Thanks,
BRD
 

ep67bro

Contributor
Bronco Junky
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
3,748
Loc.
Easton, MD
sounds like you need a little prying and it should come out. As for your transmission rebuild I paid $1,000 for a rebuild and my C4 still leaks!!!! Watch out for the bargin guys go with someone that has a good rep. I went the cheap route and got burned!!! I have seen Scoops truck on the trail and I know it works so his guy maybe a good choice!!
 

HGM

Sr. Member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
973
Loc.
Senoia, Ga.
One more question... I cut out 29 spot welds but the window frame is still not moving. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get the front windshield frame out?

Thanks,
BRD

The best way would be to get a seam buster. Basicly it looks like a slim jim and can be hammered in the seam. I didnt have one, so I cut the hinge and worked from one side to the other with a hammer and chissel. Be careful not to damage the parts your re using, of course.. It sux....
 
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
Purchased a seam buster chisel from Northern. Hope this helps! Thanks HGM for the tip!

Cheers,
BRD
 
OP
OP
Big Red Dog

Big Red Dog

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
57
72 (77) Rebuild

Wow it's been a while since I last updated!! I've been SO busy! This stupid thing called life keeps getting in the way! Now I know why it takes years to get a project finished!

After fixing my daily driver I was able to drop my engine off with my shade tree mechanic. He's going to have the block cleaned and painted for me. I'm thinking I'm gonna replace the stock 2 brl carb and manifold with a replacement edelbrock 4 brl set up. Any other bolt on upgrades I should think about?

Still need to drop my transmission off....

Today I was able to remove the windshield and frame. I built a cradle for the body and removed it today. Lots of pics. It was REALLY easy!! The only issue was I built the sides too low and the cradle wouldn't roll over the engine lift. I removed the casters and added another 2x4 and it was perfect! Have I mentioned I LOVE ratchet straps!!

I already jumped into the frame by removing a couple shocks.

Finally back to work on ol blue!
BRD
 

Attachments

  • 102_0806.jpg
    102_0806.jpg
    107.2 KB · Views: 73
  • 102_0805.jpg
    102_0805.jpg
    115.5 KB · Views: 67
  • 102_0804.jpg
    102_0804.jpg
    116 KB · Views: 69
  • 102_0803.jpg
    102_0803.jpg
    122.7 KB · Views: 71
  • 102_0802.jpg
    102_0802.jpg
    116.4 KB · Views: 78
  • 102_0801.jpg
    102_0801.jpg
    104.4 KB · Views: 71
  • 102_0800.jpg
    102_0800.jpg
    105.1 KB · Views: 70
  • 102_0799.jpg
    102_0799.jpg
    88 KB · Views: 68
  • 102_0809.jpg
    102_0809.jpg
    89.3 KB · Views: 65
  • 102_0807.jpg
    102_0807.jpg
    110.8 KB · Views: 67
  • 102_0808.jpg
    102_0808.jpg
    116 KB · Views: 66
Top