72 Bronco Rebuild

[Big Red Dog]

Shock Supports

I have a couple questions about my shock supports and hoping someone can chime in...

I have what looks like 3 shock supports on the driverside of the frame. Two look natural and one looks like an add on. The possible add on is much shorter than the other two. The question is should there be an extra support? And if so what's it for? I'm trying to get the frame cleaned up so I can take it down to be sandblasted and painted this week and if I don't need this "third" support then I'm going to remove it. This leads to more questions. Why are there two supports on each side? It looks like I can put in two sets of shocks one in front and behind the rear axle. Any idea why? Additionally, the supports look to be bent up is that normal or are they really bent? Should I replace them or try and bend them back down or not worry about it?

I've broken all the bolts loose and I'm hoping to remove the axles tuesday night and maybe drop the frame off this week.

Thanks!
BRD

 

[HGM]

Mine has an odd bend to them too, so I think some of it is normal. Although, it does appear that your rears are bent upward a little more. The little ones look like sway bar link mounts. The front shock mounts, factory, and I'd guess the rears are add on. Sorry, I cant be definitive, but thats my best guess.. I'm sure some other guys will chime in before long..

 

[Big Red Dog]

Rear axle question

I'm working on pulling the axles off and was removing the brake lines when I found a problem with the axle. There is some sort of T junction (possibly proportioning valve?) mounted to both the front and rear axles. The rear junction was broken off the axle leaving a hole in the rear end. I have no idea when it happend. So my question is how concerned should I be? I'm thinking water, mud, dirt you name it may have gotten into the rear end. Should I pull it apart and clean it out? Just replace the oil? And can I actually replace the junction?

Should I worry about rebuilding the axles?

Thanks,
BRD

 

[Big Red Dog]

Engine Update

My shade tree mechanic called me on Monday with an engine update. He tore down the engine. Said it looks to be in great shape (thinks it was rebuilt once). I did notice when I drained the oil it looked new. He said the pistons are in excellent shape. His only concern was the lower bearings under the cam appear to be wearing a little. Not bad or worn through just a little discolored. He is shipping the block out to be cleaned and painted. He's going to have it checked to make sure the cam alignment is correct. He also asked for additional parts. So I ordered a water pump w/ mounting hardware, fuel pump, valve covers and roller rockers.

I going to replace the carb/intake manifold. I'm looking at the Edelbrock 20314 - Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold and Carburetor Kit from Summit. Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Since this is a 72 I'll get the non-egr version. My only concern is the TV (kick down) cable. I'm not sure if it supports that feature. Mechanic says I can buy an after market add on to support the tv cable.

Thanks,
BRD

 

[HGM]

I'm working on pulling the axles off and was removing the brake lines when I found a problem with the axle. There is some sort of T junction (possibly proportioning valve?) mounted to both the front and rear axles. The rear junction was broken off the axle leaving a hole in the rear end. I have no idea when it happend. So my question is how concerned should I be? I'm thinking water, mud, dirt you name it may have gotten into the rear end. Should I pull it apart and clean it out? Just replace the oil? And can I actually replace the junction?

Should I worry about rebuilding the axles?

Thanks,
BRD

You really wont know till you get it appart. That is the axle vent. It is installed through the brake line "T".. No big deal, you'll just have to get the old one out and replace it.. You need the vent, When I was running around in the Glades, I'd always add longer vent hose loops to mine because I knew I'd be driving through deep water.

 

[Big Red Dog]

Hey Greg.... Thanks for the info. After I posted the question last night I busted out my brand spanking new CD version of the shop manual and realized it was a vent. Found a replacement on bronco graveyard. So that's the easy part. The hard part is removing the broken threads. Any suggestions? This is not gonna be fun!!

On the bright side I'm really close to being done removing rusted bolts!

Thanks,
BRD

 

[HGM]

I'd soak it down with PB Blaster and use and easy-out. Might need a little heat around the threads if its bad. Carefull not to start a fire in the housing though

 

[stupidboy]

Those upper rear shock mounts are supposed to have that bent in them to account for the misalignment with the lower mounts.

 

[Big Red Dog]

Frame is finally ready... Almost

It's been a busy couple weeks. I've been prepping the frame to send it out for sandblasting. Had to grind off multiple muffler hangers, broken bolts, remove wiring/fuel/brake clips etc. Had a serious problem removing the leaf spring shackles. The bolt was rusted to the steel sleeve inside the bruising and had a heck of a time removing it!! After bushing my hand with a hammer miss hit, I was on the verge of buying an oxy/acet torch. A friend (thanks Tim!) told me to try a cutting wheel on my grinder and sure enough it cut through the bolts like butter!!

Started tearing down the rear axle. Since it's leaking I'm hoping to just pull the axle apart and replace the seals. I'm also hoping when I pull it apart pieces don't fall out. Does anyone have experience replacing the seals? So far I've pulled the brakes apart, drained most of the fluid out and broke the bolts loose.

The other big concern I have is one of the supports on the frame that the shackle connects too is VERY thin. So should I replace it or put a copper block behind it and try to build it up with a welder?

Thanks,
BRD

 

[Big Red Dog]

Axle Work

Work continues.... slowly. Torn down the rear axle over the weekend. I was able to remove the broken breather valve. I simply cleaned, sprayed PB blaster on it then removed with pliers.

I was able to dismantle the rear end. It came apart very easily. I removed the axles then the third member. I purchased replacement seals. Next step is to clean the rust off the exterior and cover it with rust bullet. I'm thinking I might as well replace the bearings since it's already apart.

Does anyone have experience with spray on seals like loctite?

I dropped off a bunch of engine parts for my shade tree mechanic (pic of his shop). Turns out I bought the wrong roller rockers. Have to return them and get the rail rockers. Also included a pic of my engine or what's left of it. The block is still out getting honed and painted.

A bunch of parts are starting to roll in. My Lincoln welder (140) showed up along with replacement shackle supports for the frame. Need to pick up a cart and tank then weld on the supports so I can send the frame out from sandblasting and painting.

Back to the grind stone....

BRD

 

[Big Red Dog]

I've been working away on the 9 inch rear end and I'm close to putting it back together. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with modifying this rear end and making it a limited slip? 1) can it be done? 2) how much is involved in the modification? Now that I'm almost finished with it I'm starting to wonder if I will regret not making it a limited slip. Does it make that much diference? Should I worry about it?

Thanks,
BRD

 

[HGM]

I've been working away on the 9 inch rear end and I'm close to putting it back together. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with modifying this rear end and making it a limited slip? 1) can it be done? 2) how much is involved in the modification? Now that I'm almost finished with it I'm starting to wonder if I will regret not making it a limited slip. Does it make that much diference? Should I worry about it?

Thanks,
BRD

Just another $400 or so...
Currie
It really depends on your plans.. Off road at all and you'll appreciate it.. However, you can use what you've got and wait for a deal on a 3rd member to swap out..

 

[Big Red Dog]

Thanks for the info HGM! I found a local place (Lorton VA) that wants $300 (+parts) to rebuild the 9 inch rearend. I've already done most of the work. However, I asked them if they could convert a standard rear end to a limited slip. They said they could but it would depend on the existing rear end. I've sent them some pics. Hoping they can determine if its a candidate.

Cheers,
BRD

 

[Big Red Dog]

Engine Update / Rust Bullet Adventure

I've been working on the rear end. I've put the third member back in and cleaned all the rust off with a wire brush attachment on my grinder. Works very well but makes one heck of a mess! I've begun to coat everything with rest bullet automotive. Once that step is complete I will cover with a coat of rust bullet blackshell.

Met with my engine guy. He received the block back. They had to line bore the block as the crankshaft was scoring. They also baked the crankshaft and buffed out the slight scoring. Now for the engine rebuild. I ordered roller rockers but turns out I need the rail type. Need to re-order rail roller rockers and a new carb/intake manifold.

I'm having trouble finding a replacement oil pan. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm looking for a basic pan not a chrome one....

Thanks,
BRD

 

[Big Red Dog]

Misc Work Continues

Well, I've been working at cleaning up parts. Using a grinder with a wire wheel I've been stripping off rust, applying two coats of Rust Bullet and one coat of Rust Bullet Blackshell. So far I'm loving the Rust Bullet products. They cover nicely with a brush.

Finally got all my parts for my welder and welded on two new leaf spring supports to the frame. Took the frame to American Stripping and had the frame sand blasted and powder coated. Cost was $650 including the radius arms and caps. The frame came out great!! Have a few parts on order. I'm waiting for my new leaf springs from Bronco Graveyard. I ordered the set with a 3.5 inch lift. Not sure if I still need to add the blocks from the old springs or not. I'm thinking no.

Purchased new bearings for the rear axles and had them pressed on. Just need to slap them in and the rear axle is done. Need to purchase all the rear brake parts so I can complete the rear end.

Began working over the front end. Fought with the caliper keys to finally get the calipers off. Ordered a socket to remove the hub/rotor assembly. Once that arrives I can tear down the front end.

Can't wait for warmer weather. Tired of fighting with my kerosene heater to warm the garage.

Cheers,
BRD

 

[Stutsmo]

Looks Good! This is where it starts to get fun for me. I like putting all the shiney parts back together!

 

[Nightstick]

Looking good man! We're at about the same stage of our builds. $10 says you finish before me, lol... I don't know what your plans are for front shocks, but have you considered cutting off the four towers and just running the F250 mounts?

 

[aaron6920]

Keep up the good work, nice Build!

 

[Big Red Dog]

Thanks guys..... I agree the fun part is about to start.

 

[Big Red Dog]

Front End

I began the front end yesterday. Taking the hubs/rotors off was a joy! They must have packed with about 12 lbs of grease. Most of it's on my garage floor! I ordered the socket from TBPs to get the hubs off.

I've run into a snag. I can't get the spindle assembly off of the caliper support. I read over a post on another site last night and they talked about using a chisel to get the spindle assembly off. Guess I'll try that next.

Does anyone have experience with replacing the shaft seals? From what I can tell I need to remove the entire pinion ring gear assembly to get to them. I really didn't want to remove everything. Then again I really want to replace 34 years old seals.... Thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks,
BRD