Community
Message Forum
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
'72 crawler build
- Thread starter CW72
- Start date
Yup- you are not close...
I love the duct tape and wood soft top support!! I would just run a couple more pcs of tube there. One other item, put a cross bar behind the front seats and attach the shoulder harnesses to them. Your spine & back will appreciate it more if you get in a wreck!
I love the duct tape and wood soft top support!! I would just run a couple more pcs of tube there. One other item, put a cross bar behind the front seats and attach the shoulder harnesses to them. Your spine & back will appreciate it more if you get in a wreck!
Yeah I rolled my eyes when I saw the wood too.. I plan on ad didn't more onto the cage soon. Including welding it to the frame. It's just bolted to the floor boards now, that needs to be changed soon.
Ordered a new heater core, rebuild kit and 2 defroster hoses from WH. Also going to buy a huge pack of heat shrink electrical connectors. There are quite a few questionable splices, I even found a few wire nuts. And a bit of paracord holding a few things together too..
Where would I look for a new throttle cable? It's correct from the butterfly to inside the firewall but connected to the pedal via paracord..
Where would I look for a new throttle cable? It's correct from the butterfly to inside the firewall but connected to the pedal via paracord..
Been a few days, got the parts in and put the tubes on.
First time wheeling went extremely well, ran like a champ. Only crushed the drivers side rocker, I'm in need of sliders very soon. Going to do the 2x6 route that I see a lot around here.
Some shots from the weekend.
First time wheeling went extremely well, ran like a champ. Only crushed the drivers side rocker, I'm in need of sliders very soon. Going to do the 2x6 route that I see a lot around here.
Some shots from the weekend.
tribaltalon
Full Member
I like that alot. It looks similar to my build in some ways. So what is your solution for the doubler/driveshaft? Stretch the rear further back? I've got mine stretched 10 inches in the rear but no doubler yet.
SpareParts
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 5,592
Looks fun... check out my build thread for doubler questions. I've had 3 of them in mine, along with leafs, coils and 3 link and now coils and 4 link.
Not sure yet, still gathering parts. I'm hoping to just throw it in, get some high angle shafts and call it a day.
I've looked in some of yours before, love what you've done. I'll be touching base on it again once it's close to time.
Waiting to pull the trigger on the NWF triple sticks..
Bought the 2x6 tubing for the sliders as well. And I have a question about that, i will not be welding to the bottom of the door jamb like most do, only connecting to the frame and tying the cage into them via synergy bushing brackets. So because I'm not doing that and removing almost all of the rocker, do I need to weld something underneath the door to keep the rocker rigid? Or am I overthinking it and it'll be totally fine?
Also added the fender flairs I had from when I bought it.
And added a seat cover to my rear bench. I was afraid my lab was going to tear up that $450 seat..
Also going to be buying tubing to finish out the cage and get the seat belts mounted properly.
Lastly, had an opportunity to play with the forklift. Poser shots!
Also added the fender flairs I had from when I bought it.
And added a seat cover to my rear bench. I was afraid my lab was going to tear up that $450 seat..
Also going to be buying tubing to finish out the cage and get the seat belts mounted properly.
Lastly, had an opportunity to play with the forklift. Poser shots!
New issue has surfaced..
Turn signal fuse keeps blowing when I hit a rough patch of road. Obviously a loose wire or ground bumping something. Tracking that down in the next week.
The wiring in this truck is, questionable. A lot of connections need to be redone correctly. Plan is to add a fuse box for all the accessories instead of the mess that's in there now. As well as cut off and redo all the other connectors with waterproof versions.
Turn signal fuse keeps blowing when I hit a rough patch of road. Obviously a loose wire or ground bumping something. Tracking that down in the next week.
The wiring in this truck is, questionable. A lot of connections need to be redone correctly. Plan is to add a fuse box for all the accessories instead of the mess that's in there now. As well as cut off and redo all the other connectors with waterproof versions.
pipepro
New Member
I cant say for sure, I welded mine to the body. I think you would be best served to cut out the rocker and then add some kind of plating to that area. A little support couldnt hurt. After looking at it I think you could just slip a 1/2" piece of HDPE in there to give support and just rest on top of your rock slider. That way it wont deflect with getting in and out but it wont squeak or be rigid.
thin blue line
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2011
- Messages
- 6
that rig flexes pretty dam good, cant wait to see what you come up with for your sliders.. I am building mine out of 2x3" tube, just under where I cut the rocker out..
Late reply, but been up to a few things. Rained a ton, so that sucked a lot of building time out.
Started sliders, added 1x3 right under the door sill after I cut the rockers out, luckily I did because I dropped the body on it last weekend and they held it all. Like mini sliders underneath my soon to be actual sliders. Hopefully soon here, but forecast reads constant rain all week and beyond so unlikely.
Fixed wiring issue, put a proper fuse block in and tapped into wires appropriately. Vs the crimp 3 wires into a spade connector and jam it into a fuse holder method..
On the trailer home last weekend the bikini top I had shredded, so we've got no top at all for now.
Switched out the old Ramsey winch this morning for my other warn, they both work but the Ramsey is just getting tired. It'll be a good trailer winch in the future.
Changed out the CB as well. Put my cobra 19 in there and wired my firestik antenna into the swing out tire carrier instead of the old magnet whip antenna. Hopefully this combo works better, it was awful before, I couldn't hear guys that were 30 feet ahead of me. No signal coming through at all.
Of course I have no pictures of any of this at the moment.
Still working on doubler plans, going to try and order a lokar dipstick, rock crawler gate for my Art Carr, and those triple sticks I'm eyeing. Need to see what high angle driveshaft parts I can get and see if anyone local is willing to build me a shaft using them. Going to upgrade joint size as well while I'm at it. I'm not sure what it has right now, but 14 bolt pinion yokes are super easy to find. I'll be throwing a u joint guard on there at the same time.
Hopefully I can make that a one weekend fiasco, with exception of the driveshafts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Started sliders, added 1x3 right under the door sill after I cut the rockers out, luckily I did because I dropped the body on it last weekend and they held it all. Like mini sliders underneath my soon to be actual sliders. Hopefully soon here, but forecast reads constant rain all week and beyond so unlikely.
Fixed wiring issue, put a proper fuse block in and tapped into wires appropriately. Vs the crimp 3 wires into a spade connector and jam it into a fuse holder method..
On the trailer home last weekend the bikini top I had shredded, so we've got no top at all for now.
Switched out the old Ramsey winch this morning for my other warn, they both work but the Ramsey is just getting tired. It'll be a good trailer winch in the future.
Changed out the CB as well. Put my cobra 19 in there and wired my firestik antenna into the swing out tire carrier instead of the old magnet whip antenna. Hopefully this combo works better, it was awful before, I couldn't hear guys that were 30 feet ahead of me. No signal coming through at all.
Of course I have no pictures of any of this at the moment.
Still working on doubler plans, going to try and order a lokar dipstick, rock crawler gate for my Art Carr, and those triple sticks I'm eyeing. Need to see what high angle driveshaft parts I can get and see if anyone local is willing to build me a shaft using them. Going to upgrade joint size as well while I'm at it. I'm not sure what it has right now, but 14 bolt pinion yokes are super easy to find. I'll be throwing a u joint guard on there at the same time.
Hopefully I can make that a one weekend fiasco, with exception of the driveshafts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got a few things done, but nothing with the doubler besides the dipstick and the gate parts.
Made an aluminum top for the front part of the cage, haven't gotten to the back yet. Soft top will be on order soon as well. The aluminum is great, shields from the sun, doesn't make any noise at all, and doesn't radiate hardly any heat.
Gave it a bath today to wash all the coal dust off of it from Rausch Creek, we attended the roundup last weekend and everything went perfect. Wheeled like a champ. Couldn't be happier with its performance.
Anyway, here's a few shots I got from it.
Dragged the diffs a little here.
Even let the lady have a turn.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Made an aluminum top for the front part of the cage, haven't gotten to the back yet. Soft top will be on order soon as well. The aluminum is great, shields from the sun, doesn't make any noise at all, and doesn't radiate hardly any heat.
Gave it a bath today to wash all the coal dust off of it from Rausch Creek, we attended the roundup last weekend and everything went perfect. Wheeled like a champ. Couldn't be happier with its performance.
Anyway, here's a few shots I got from it.
Dragged the diffs a little here.
Even let the lady have a turn.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rig looks like it performs pretty well! Wish I could have made Rausch this year... pics are making me jealous!
Thanks, it worked well. Just got to iron out some issues and it'll be even better.
Got a problem I'm trying to figure out and I'm racking my brain on it. When I'm on an incline to the drivers side, fuel will pour out of the filler neck. Even the slightest angle will make it happen.
I tracked the hoses from the tank to the engine and they are as follows:
Tank-fuel filter-fuel pump-fuel filter-injectors. Obviously that's the high pressure side.
Return: injectors-t valve (the other side of the t has about 8" of hose that's capped off with a bolt)-tank. There are also 2 ports right near where the filler neck goes in that are capped off. 3/8" large at most.
There is one final hose that is also right by the filler neck on the tank that goes from the tank to the bottom of the filler neck right behind the quarter panel.
My gas cap has no rubber seal or any real seal to speak of.
Could it be as simple as the cap needs to be replaced? I read a little about some caps being vented and non vented, it doesn't seem like there's any vent at all if I had a proper cap seal. And to my vague understanding of fuel systems, that would cause a vapor lock of sorts, correct?
Hopefully someone can straighten me out here, I hate watching money literally pour out onto the ground when I'm wheeling.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I tracked the hoses from the tank to the engine and they are as follows:
Tank-fuel filter-fuel pump-fuel filter-injectors. Obviously that's the high pressure side.
Return: injectors-t valve (the other side of the t has about 8" of hose that's capped off with a bolt)-tank. There are also 2 ports right near where the filler neck goes in that are capped off. 3/8" large at most.
There is one final hose that is also right by the filler neck on the tank that goes from the tank to the bottom of the filler neck right behind the quarter panel.
My gas cap has no rubber seal or any real seal to speak of.
Could it be as simple as the cap needs to be replaced? I read a little about some caps being vented and non vented, it doesn't seem like there's any vent at all if I had a proper cap seal. And to my vague understanding of fuel systems, that would cause a vapor lock of sorts, correct?
Hopefully someone can straighten me out here, I hate watching money literally pour out onto the ground when I'm wheeling.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Finally got myself a proper roof, so nice to have a full top option. Still some adjustments to be made, mostly the door surround bracket has to be made. This truck used to have an STC or something similar long ago so all the holes we already there and there were snaps on the windshield and tailgate.
Anyone on my gas spillage issue? I need to do more vent and gas cap research.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Anyone on my gas spillage issue? I need to do more vent and gas cap research.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kens bronco
Full Member
The new top looks great Colin. Who makes that top?
Kenny
Kenny
