Aftermarket frame, paint or powder coat

[msmith]

Picked up an aftermarket frame for my build. It's going to be on the nicer end of a DD, not a garage queen. The question is...powder coat or prime then implement paint?

I was going to have it powder coated but got to thinking that any scuffs or scratches from assembly I could touch up with paint.

Thoughts?

 

[hsach]

If you are going to drive it and not be a garage queen, I bet you will eventually modify something underneath and have to mess up the powder coat. I would go with epoxy then paint since it is a nice aftermarket one. My frame and underside have been done for a while, and I can't tell you how many times I have scratched it doing other things on the bronco. I just keep touching it up as I go along. I do like powder coat though, I had my wheels done and plan to have a few other things coated.

 

[AZ73]

I was worried about potential updates so I used KBS Rustseal epoxy. It's water cured. Since i did the work I was able to cut off the shock mounts later on and weld on new F250 mounts, then just touch up the area. I'm also going to have to drill holes in the rear spring mounts for the traction bars. If it was powder coating, it would have created a space for rust to get under it. Because I used the epoxy, I just touch up the holes and I'm good.

 

[Beresb]

I am just in the process of starting to mock up components to my frame from Throttle Down Kustoms, which requires welding and such. I probably could powder coat after mock up but it would be more $ vs. paint, and if I do modify or fix then blending could be an issue. So, I'll be doing what AZ73 did above, but with a different product(s). The hammer strength on some of these newer paints/products seem impressive...just remember some are sensitie to UV light, so what is ok for a frame may not be for the diffs. POR15 has a good chart on what products to use and where...

 

[steelworker77]

I ended up going the powder coated route on my TDK frame last december. Honestly it was much cheaper than I thought it would be and I was in a time crunch ( I think it was 400$ with a 1 day turnaround). I have already had to do some mods to the frame after having it coated. Unless you know what your really looking for you wouldnt be able to tell. In hindsight thought with wanting to go with the 4 link setup in the next year or so I do wish I would have had just gone the painted route. I swore I wasnt going to do anything further but that lasted all of a few weeks....

 

[Torkman66]

I powder coated frame. As others have said, later I have had several reasons for needing to weld frame. I think painting is a better option.

 

[msmith]

Ordered KBS epoxy. I think this will keep things flexible for the future and considering the closest powdercoating shop is over an hour away, it will be more convenient and less expensive. I was quoted $600-$800 for powdercoating. That usually means I'll be charged closer or more than the higher lol.

 

[AZ73]

Ordered KBS epoxy. I think this will keep things flexible for the future and considering the closest powdercoating shop is over an hour away, it will be more convenient and less expensive. I was quoted $600-$800 for powdercoating. That usually means I'll be charged closer or more than the higher lol.

Please pay attention to how you use it. It's water cured so you must wear a respirator else it will cure in your lungs. It's self leveling, but pay attention to your temps as it will effect the finish. I used a brush on the frame and went over the same spot a few times and it left some brush marks, so if you use a brush, don't continually go over the same spot. Try a roller instead. If you decide you want to use a spray gun (which I did for the rear bumper, the floors, roll bar,and the wheel wells) get a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight for $10-20 and toss it when you're done. It's a lot easier then trying to clean it.

I'm pleased with the results. I sprayed a piece of scrap metal and when it was dry I hit it a few times with a hammer. It left a dent, but didn't affect the epoxy. To remove it to weld required an angle grinder with a sanding disk. As noted above, the epoxy isn't UV resistant. I didn't bother to coat the frame with a top coat that was, but I did do my bumper and roll bar with their blacktop.

 

[msmith]

Please pay attention to how you use it. It's water cured so you must wear a respirator else it will cure in your lungs. It's self leveling, but pay attention to your temps as it will effect the finish. I used a brush on the frame and went over the same spot a few times and it left some brush marks, so if you use a brush, don't continually go over the same spot. Try a roller instead. If you decide you want to use a spray gun (which I did for the rear bumper, the floors, roll bar,and the wheel wells) get a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight for $10-20 and toss it when you're done. It's a lot easier then trying to clean it.

I'm pleased with the results. I sprayed a piece of scrap metal and when it was dry I hit it a few times with a hammer. It left a dent, but didn't affect the epoxy. To remove it to weld required an angle grinder with a sanding disk. As noted above, the epoxy isn't UV resistant. I didn't bother to coat the frame with a top coat that was, but I did do my bumper and roll bar with their blacktop.

View attachment 944471

Yeah, I used it on some parts and my Dana 44 using a brush. It leveled out pretty good. I figured on using a roller and brushes but considered getting a couple of the cheap HPLV guns from HF and, like you said, pitch them after each coat. Considering that I would have to spray outside, I figure on the roller and brush method most likely, maybe spray a little to get in some nooks and crannys. Respirators for spraying any paint is a must for sure.