What kind of place are you taking it to? A standard alignment shop with a rack? Or a custom fabrication shop that’s going to make some changes?
Any alignment shop machine should have the specifications already programmed in to it. Custom shop, well that’s a different thing.
Factory specifications were:
Camber: 1 to 2° positive
Caster: 2 to 4° positive
Toe-in 1/8 to 1/4 inch
Most of alignment racks give their toe-in readings as degrees now, so the old specifications won’t matter.
Toe-in usually ends up being right in the middle, at 3/16” but each vehicle is different. Put it in the middle and see how you like it. If you want to change it, change it in your driveway.
Less camber than factory original is desirable. Less than 1° is better than more.
More caster than originally specified is better. 4 to 8° is better than 2 to 4 by a long shot.
The amount of lift, the type of linkage, size of tires, offset of wheels, type of linkage, don’t change the factory specifications.
They do often change what you should set it to. But has already pointed out, Tow Inn is your only adjustable setting.
If the shop has a full machine, they should be able to make sure the front axle is centered with an adjustable track bar.
If their machine uses degrees of toe-in you can compare that to one of the charts showing inches, and have them set it to that.
I still don’t know firsthand how much of a difference that makes. Just that at least in my head it feels right to keep it in inches to compensate for a tire size changes.
