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Alternator decision

ddm156

Full Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Messages
203
Looking to make the move to a 3g or 4g. I read up on the upgrade and I wonder if I will be happy without a serp setup? Sounds like some folks have difficulty with v-belt doing its job with the beefier alternator. Any advice? Anybody running one of the one wire alternators from the vendors and happy with it? Looking to avoid the serp setup for now, don't want to get snookered into it with a slippy v belt setup.
 

Smedley

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2004
Messages
928
Loc.
Snohomish
I'm running a Tuff Stuff one wire 100amp. (part #7068) Its was an easy install and works great.

Will
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,392
Just did a 95A 3G ('92 Aerostar 3.0 V6) with a V-belt. Reused the old belt and pulley. No squeal. It has a much more stable voltage. It's an upgrade without overdoing it. Added a second charge wire to the battery in matching 10 gauge.

I specifically wanted the 95A and not the 130 simply to keep the single V-belt. I'm going with a stock with updates theme on this truck. It fits perfectly in the factory mounts. Did have to change the adjuster bolt to a metric one and a little rewiring to accommodate the built in regulator. All instructions online in multiple sources. I'm hoping the A/C, lights, and heater can all run with the EFI at idle. Chasing unrelated issues that keep me from trying it.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Just did a 95A 3G ('92 Aerostar 3.0 V6) with a V-belt. Reused the old belt and pulley. No squeal. It has a much more stable voltage. It's an upgrade without overdoing it. Added a second charge wire to the battery in matching 10 gauge.

I specifically wanted the 95A and not the 130 simply to keep the single V-belt. I'm going with a stock with updates theme on this truck. It fits perfectly in the factory mounts. Did have to change the adjuster bolt to a metric one and a little rewiring to accommodate the built in regulator. All instructions online in multiple sources. I'm hoping the A/C, lights, and heater can all run with the EFI at idle. Chasing unrelated issues that keep me from trying it.

Good points.
Bigger isn't always better. That's especially true with alternators.
If it squeals, it's too big.;)
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
Alternate solutions to the belt traction issues are larger diameter alternator pulley, or dual groove pulley, or both.
I'm only talking about slightly larger, so not a big deal.

What year Bronco? What engine? How many other accessories? A/C and power steering? These all change what you do to achieve the dual belt setup. It's what I did originally, but back then did not have power brakes or air-conditioning.
I had a nasty squeal with just a 70a alternator, so it's not just about sheer output capabilities on paper.

Other truck is running a 105a version of the same alternator and with it's larger diameter factory pulley has never squealed, even with a single belt.

A very slight advantage in this regard does go to the 1-wire setups. Waiting for 1200-1500 rpm before energizing, it's just the little extra chance the speeds all have to catch up to each other before the big load is placed on the belt.
If squealing was the only criteria then, this is an argument for the 1-wire. Personally I still prefer a standard multi-wire regulator type, don't mind the extra wiring to take advantage of their strengths, and will go to the other lengths to keep the belt from slipping.

Paul
 

68ford

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 26, 2004
Messages
2,710
You can also run a smaller diameter water pump pulley and that gives you enough room between it and the crank pulley for the belt to exit between them.
Alternator belt only goes around it and the crank. Almost 180 degrees engagement vs roughly 90.
Obviously you have to have P/S
 

charlie6976

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
404
Loc.
Grand Coulee WA
If it's slipping you're trying to eliminate, another option is to change to a mount with a 'turn buckle' (screw type) adjustment. Easy to tighten. All mounts (V-Belt) should have screw type adjustments.



I have a 130 amp with no squeal and single V Belts. p/s, a/c
 
Last edited:

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,918
Did the v-belt thing for decades.
When I went to the 130amp alternator the belt started squealing....in fact my a/c compressor would have a little belt squeak too. Usually I had to replace my belts about once a year and that would control it for the most part.
No big deal. Happy with that situation for quite awhile.
A/C, PS, Big amp alternator I just figured yearly belt replacement was my future from here on.

Then I did the Explorer Serp swap for different reasons (mostly the extra cooling from the killer fan) but it did much more. One of those things is not a hint of squeal ever.
140+ amp aftermarket Explorer 4G alternator, and a killer Explorer power steering pump absolutely no squeal.
In fact I didn't realize how much quieter the whole engine was with the serp swap.

I know it's a big change and a lot of work for just some belt squeal but the Explorer Serpentine swap is an excellent modification for other reasons and it would take care of your belt squeal at the same time.
 

Tuloyuser

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Messages
89
If it's slipping you're trying to eliminate, another option is to change to a mount with a 'turn buckle' (screw type) adjustment. Easy to tighten. All mounts (V-Belt) should have screw type adjustments.







I have a 130 amp with no squeal and single V Belts. p/s, a/c



Hi charlie6976,
Would be interested on how you did this and where the parts came from..
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
I've seen some kits out there before, but not sure which of the many varieties of adjusters they were meant to replace. Which is probably why most just make something with some threaded hex-rod and spherical-bearing rod ends.

Though now thinking about it, I think someone (maybe March?) was making one that was universal enough to fit the Bronco setup.
The big problem I see with this method though, is that it's too tempting to just keep putting more pressure on until the squeal stops. If it's bad enough, this can put extra strain on all the bearings being spun by that belt, or belts.

It's super convenient though, and so is not a bad thing on it's own. Just that you need to know when to stop tightening.

Paul
 

gr8scott

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Messages
1,857
If it's slipping you're trying to eliminate, another option is to change to a mount with a 'turn buckle' (screw type) adjustment. Easy to tighten. All mounts (V-Belt) should have screw type adjustments.

I have a 130 amp with no squeal and single V Belts. p/s, a/c

That's the route I went. Keeps the belt nice and tight. Got it from Summit. Paul is right though, gotta know when to stop.
 

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Jfryjfry

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
Messages
502
I know it has been listed before but I’m not finding it...
Can someone give a few applications for single belt 100+ amp alternators that fit the original mounts??

The Aerostar 95 amp is helpful but I might get bigger
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,926
Loc.
San Martin, CA
I know it has been listed before but I’m not finding it...
Can someone give a few applications for single belt 100+ amp alternators that fit the original mounts??

The Aerostar 95 amp is helpful but I might get bigger

I seem to recall that 94-95 5.0 Mustangs were a viable candidate...?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
There were several Taurus/Sable applications that had the 3G alternators. I believe that both sizes were available too. The 95a and the 130a units.
Some of the regulars here have posted up fairly full lists, but are you going junkyard hopping for a good used one, or to the parts store or internet for new?

Lots of cars and trucks with the 300 I-6, 5.0 and 5.8 engines had them after the '92/'93 model years (depending on the truck model) up to the '96 cutoff for the old body style.
Anything with the mod-motor 4.6 or 5.4 will likely not work as far as I know from a mounting standpoint.
Mustang with the 5.0 V8 will often work, but not the '95 with the 3.8 V6 because Ford had already gone to the "side mount" style for those, like found on the Explorer.
Other passenger cars like T-birds and such would also have had the desirable 3G's during that time.

If looking in the junkyard, are you familiar with the physical differences between the two so you can tell them apart at a glance?

Paul
 

Jfryjfry

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
Messages
502
After looking up that 100a tuff alternator I decided I’d just do that. $100 shipped.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Looking to make the move to a 3g or 4g. I read up on the upgrade and I wonder if I will be happy without a serp setup? Sounds like some folks have difficulty with v-belt doing its job with the beefier alternator. Any advice? Anybody running one of the one wire alternators from the vendors and happy with it? Looking to avoid the serp setup for now, don't want to get snookered into it with a slippy v belt setup.

ddm156, what loads are you planning to feed with this alternator?
You need to feed the load, but too much alternator is a pain also.
For example, if you need to crank the engine a bit long for some reason, your battery will be discharged a bit. The alternator will try to replace what was lost during the cranking. Whatever amperage alternator you have selected, that's the load the belts will see. At this point you will probably agree that a 95 amp alternator will be squealing a lot less than a 130 amp alternator.
 
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