alternator suggestions?

[DaveyGeez]

It's not a Bronco, but a 302ci/ '56 Ford Ranchwagon. I have burned through my third alternator rebuild (TuffStuff 140A: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7069abull)

Please recommend a more robust alternator or suggest improvements.

Here's the list of batteries to be charge and maintained by the alternator:

under the hood starting batteries:
2 - EverStart VP-24F https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStar...ttery-Group-Size-24F-12-Volt-585-CCA/47308797

onboard refrigerator 12V supply:
2 - UB12750K sealed AGM: https://www.amazon.com/GENERIC-UB12750-Battery-Universal-Group/dp/B016YK1XTQ

trailer battery:
1 - 12V Group 29 marine : https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Marine-Battery-Group-Size-29DC-12-Volts-845-CCA/20531539

battery to battery controller: RedArc BCDC 1225D:
https://www.redarc.com.au/dual-input-25a-in-vehicle-dc-battery-charger
This controller supplies charging from the underhood batteries to the onboard fridge batteries via 17 ft. of 6 gauge wire. It is located close to the house batteries.

Trailer battery is charged through the hitch connector via the alternator directly with 14 gauge wire. This battery is barely used and a high charging rate is not required. I don't think it would put big load on the alternator due to the light gauge wire...right?

Could it be high under hood temperatures killing my alternator? That little 302 with headers creates lots of heat when towing one ton in 90-100°F weather.

Thanks for your consideration,
Davey

 

[bmc69]

These guys sell good 3G kits.

https://left-eye-blind-racing-and-fabrication.myshopify.com/collections/leb-3g-alternators

I'm running a big Leece-Neville emergency vehicle alternator in my "bugout" rig; it keeps up with the pair of 1000CCA batteries and a 3000W inverter used intermittently. However, those L-N alternators are getting harder to fined..and the 3G is as good in most specs.

I had the same 140A alternator you linked to in my '69 trail rig..burned up two of them over the years; both times when running the winch really hard.

 

[DaveyGeez]

Hey BMC, thanks for the link and the note on your 140A!

 

[Broncobowsher]

I would actually recommend going to a stock 130A 3G. You have a lot of battery and if they all need charge that is a lot of time under high load. By backing down the alternator output it won't charge as fast, but you won't be building as much heat. It will be heat saturated for longer, but not as hot while saturated.

 

[DaveyGeez]

I was wondering about that. More amps means more heat and I'm in no hurry to charge up all those batts. But it looks like 3g smallest is 160A. I'll give them a call...also check on a possible overheating, over draw fuse.

 

[bmc69]

I was wondering about that. More amps means more heat and I'm in no hurry to charge up all those batts. But it looks like 3g smallest is 160A. I'll give them a call...also check on a possible overheating, over draw fuse.

Kris at LEB knows everything there is to know about 3G upgrades...it's kind of a side specialty at his shop.

 

[Timmy390]

Maybe under-drive the alternator to get a lessor output? That way it's not producing so much internal heat?

Agree...lots of batteries to charge. It's just burning out due to staying in high output for extended time.

Never been a fan of those high output aftermarket Alt's or starters. Stock options have always worked great for me. Well stock as in factory stuff......I run a GM alt on my Samurai.....

Tim

 

[pbwcr]

I would suggest to check the condition of those batteries using a separate load test for each one. Maybe you have one that is doing the damage?

 

[demesauce]

Ford Taurus high output alternator.

 

[DaveyGeez]

Any particular year on that Ford Taurus HOAlt?

The batteries are new except for the one on the trailer. They all hold a charge nicely.
I'll need to review the steps for load testing a battery.

I'll ask for Kris at LEB, thanks.

Thanks all for your input!

 

[EPB72]

Any particular year on that Ford Taurus HOAlt?

The batteries are new except for the one on the trailer. They all hold a charge nicely.
I'll need to review the steps for load testing a battery.

I'll ask for Kris at LEB, thanks.

Thanks all for your input!

Batteries should be fully charged before testing or see if they take a charge , a local service station or independent shop should have a VAT machine and/or internal resistence type tester, to test your loose batteries if you bring them in that way... the Taurus alt were the early 90's some were 90 and some 130 amp .

 

[DaveyGeez]

I heard back from Paul and Kris at LEB. Both are recommending the 270 amp alternator. They claim no extra heat from that unit.
It seems a bit overboard for my setup. The onboard fridge drawing from the AGM house batteries uses 7 amps intermittently and can go for 5 days before reaching 50% batt capacity. Other loads are minor. I don't get it.

 

[DaveyGeez]

Batteries should be fully charged before testing or see if they take a charge , a local service station or independent shop should have a VAT machine and/or internal resistence type tester, to test your loose batteries if you bring them in that way... the Taurus alt were the early 90's some were 90 and some 130 amp .

I tried looking up 1992 Taurus alternators at SummitRacing. Too many to choose from. I got lost.

 

[lars]

Taurus alternators were A Thing about 20 years ago when Mustang 5.0 swaps were popular. As I recall they were a 3G as opposed to the 2G found on Mustangs, with more output. I had one for awhile, but it went away when I did an Explorer 5.0 front dress swap. I think you had to reclock the front & back halves so the mounting holes lined up with the Mustang bracket. Tauruses were abundant in junkyards back then, so they were easy to find.

The problem with most "new" aftermarket alternators is that they seem to be made out of Chinesium. That was often true of "guaranteed for life" rebuilds even 20 years back. Though 20 years ago it was still possible to find alternator shops with an inventory of US-made (cue, not junk) parts. Sacramento CA had a great one, sadly gone. I was advised at the time to source alternators from junkyards simply because they were likely to not have been rebuilt, thus made from quality parts. My tiny sample of one has proved that out: the Explorer 5.0 4G on my Bronco has been installed for 16 years and 100,000+ miles, and it still works. Lord knows how many miles were on it when I got it from the junkyard.

Sadly Taurus 3G alternators in junkyards are probably unicorns by now, but if you do a search on this forum you can probably find some old posts (and maybe new ones, haven't looked for years) that describe what to look for.

 

[DaveyGeez]

Thanks for the explanation of used vs. new alternators. My nearest junkyard is 2 hours away and I hate searching through them. Last time I was there there was an entrance fee. If I recall, there was also a form to fill regarding the part you needed. No thanks.

So that leaves me with new parts ordered online. No travel. No hassle. The trick is ordering the right part without seeing it.

I've been reading all about alternators for the past couple days and ran into this excellent description comparing one wire to three wire alternators:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

I may have discovered the problem with my system. The alternator I've rebuilt three times is a one-wire unit (TuffStuff 140A: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7069abull) connected directly to the starter battery.

Rather than explain all the details as to why it's wrong for my vehicle, read the link, it's worth it. The short version: The alternator is reading voltage at the nearby battery and supplying amps accordingly. By the time the voltage gets to a remote load it may not be enough.

Now, back to my online shopping for a 3-wire alternator and appropriate harness.

 

[Master Chief]

Not sure how much of a hurry you are, but the fine folks at Powermaster can most likely set you up with an alternator and tech advice to fit your needs.

https://www.powermastermotorsports.com/contact_a.html

 

[pbwcr]

You should get an immediate response from teh powermater contact. They are on top of queries.

 

[DaveyGeez]

Good to hear. I've sent them all of my equipment/accessory details. Looking forward to their advice. So far, my reading from MADEnterprises points to a Delco 12si 94Amp #321-266. I've been building/correcting this ride for 5 years so I've gotten used to delays.

 

[DirtDonk]

I thought all 12si units were 1-wire type, but apparently they were available either as a 1-wire (self-exciting) or multi-wire version. Which way are you going to use yours? As the same 1-wire setup you have now, or as a more traditional style?

The Ford 3G is also available in 95a versions as well as the just-as-common 130a version. Small case, large case, pretty much a straight bolt-on for standard Ford alternator brackets. Just not the stock cast bracket with the air pump (Thermactor).
But most of those (other then units like ours with 1-wire regulator) are 2 or 3 wire and need the 12v signal from the ignition switch.

What gauge wire are you using to charge the battery? I know you said 6ga to one of the aux batteries, but is that what you have for the main starting battery too?
What year is your engine and which brackets do you have? Standard Ford stuff, or aftermarket?
Nice looking wagon by the way! When do we get to see pics of under the hood?

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

Thanks for sharing.....

Thanks for the explanation of used vs. new alternators. My nearest junkyard is 2 hours away and I hate searching through them. Last time I was there there was an entrance fee. If I recall, there was also a form to fill regarding the part you needed. No thanks.

So that leaves me with new parts ordered online. No travel. No hassle. The trick is ordering the right part without seeing it.

I've been reading all about alternators for the past couple days and ran into this excellent description comparing one wire to three wire alternators:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

I may have discovered the problem with my system. The alternator I've rebuilt three times is a one-wire unit (TuffStuff 140A: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7069abull) connected directly to the starter battery.

Rather than explain all the details as to why it's wrong for my vehicle, read the link, it's worth it. The short version: The alternator is reading voltage at the nearby battery and supplying amps accordingly. By the time the voltage gets to a remote load it may not be enough.

Now, back to my online shopping for a 3-wire alternator and appropriate harness.