Aluminum heads

[broncotwister]

Im in the market for a efi system. I currently have a 302 with a mild rv cam. Im looking for recommendations.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Are you looking for heads, or an EFI system?
The title doesn't match the post.

I have had a set of trickflow heads on a mild RV cam in a Bronco and was very happy with them. It was on a 351, but not too different.
Proper gearing was part of the package. 33s and 4.11s without overdrive, 4.88s with overdrive.

 

[broncotwister]

I'm looking for heads to go with the sniper EFI.

 

[GloNDark]

I have Edelbrock Aluminum heads, intake and the Holley Sniper setup.

If I were to do it again, I'd go Edelbrock Proflow and I may end up still going that route if I can't get the tuning right on the sniper.

 

[rcmbronc]

For a mild build the AFR Enforcer looks like a good package. AFR is good quality. Also Edelbrock E-Street look good for the money. From there on up the sky is the limit depending on what you want to spend.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Pretty much any middle of the road aluminum head will be just fine.
The low end (Pro comp comes to mind, as well as any house brand outside of Blueprint) are China specials and have regularly shown quality issues as built. I have heard a few racers like them, as a blank canvas to port and machine into a head they want to use. But the average joe, avoid.
The high end will cost a lot of money and will likely not drive as good. Skip the full race spec.

The (lower) middle of the road, TFS, AFR, Edelbrock are all good. You really won't notice a difference between them. Then it comes down to finding a set that have the right valve springs that will work with your cam choice. The TFS I built in the late 90s I used the stock springs that came with the heads. It was a little heavy on the spring force, but I am also a little light on the overall lift. In the end it worked very well. Just a bit heavy on the spring force.

 

[flexmerc]

I dont want to highjack the thread, but if you purchase new aluminum heads for the 302, do you have to purchase new rods and springs? how do you know which size or length or is it all one kit and works flawlessly (hah).

Thanks guys

 

[Broncobowsher]

I dont want to highjack the thread, but if you purchase new aluminum heads for the 302, do you have to purchase new rods and springs? how do you know which size or length or is it all one kit and works flawlessly (hah).

Thanks guys

It depends...
Some heads are a drop in replacement. Others change the geometry and require correct length pushrods. Don't forget to check if hardened pushrods are required to work with guideplates.
Springs will depend on what is optioned with the heads (if there is even an option). And what the cam requires. There is often a decent sized window of springs that will work beyond the "perfect" spec that the cam will call for.

You also left out rocker arms. Very often, but not always, it will need a set of aftermarket (adjustable) rocker arms.

I've had heads that took stock flat tappet length pushrods even through it was running a hydraulic roller cam. The rocker arm geometry was off by the same amount as the flat to roller cam difference.

 

[Timmy390]

Chamber size......get that wrong and you just spent money to go slower. It's not just a matter of bolting on new heads. You have to take everything into consideration not just flow.

JMO...but for a mild build, the iron head is fine. E7's or GT40's are a HUGE upgrade from the 70's smog heads. GT40P's are the best but you have to deal with the odd plug angle and may need to upgrade the springs.

I went aluminum on my 390FE because they were a huge upgrade and there wasn't an iron alternative. That and the weight savings is massive. On my W went with GT40P's.

Tim