I've had my Bronco for two weeks and the rear axle seal has started leaking. Are there any good videos out there to watch to make sure I'm doing it correctly? The local shop wants $1,000 to put in seals and bearings for both rear wheels. I prefer to spend that money somewhere else but want to do this correctly. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
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Another Rear Axle Seal Question
- Thread starter Tuck73
- Start date
BanditBronco
Sr. Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2008
- Messages
- 690
Do you know if you have tapered roller style or sealed bearings?
1000 dollars is stealing money for axle seals and bearings. you may find a you tube video out there that would help. really not a difficult job but without the proper tools ( a press for the new axlebearings) it would be difficult. i hope that helps.
Since I'm new to this, how can I tell without pulling the axle? If I need to pull the axle, them I'm also asking, how do I do that. I've watched several videos but can't find any specific to a Bronco.
I thought that as well. They also want $1,200 to rebuild the transfer case.
The old "we don't really want to do the work price" Happens all the time. No one wants to work on these old rigs. Hell anything old for that matter.
Axle bearings are not that hard. Having a press makes it an easier job but you don't have to have one. The axle bearing retainers has to be cut and you can either press off the old bearing or cut it off too. I drill half way through the retainer and use a cold chisel. With a good smack or 2 the retainer splits and will slide off. Just don't damage the axle and your good.
My advice is to pick up a Haynes manual (some like the Chilton) and it will cover the basics of removal and install.
You will need to pull the axle to figure out what bearings you have (sealer or set20). Sealed are stock. Then you will have to decide on installing the bearings. Using a press or long pipe and hammer them on. Both ways work. The seals are just driven in. I use a HF seal driver. Works great....BE SURE TO GREASE THE INSIDE OF THE SEAL LIP or you will be pulling axles again. Make sure the axle doesn't have rust or a groove where the seal rides. If it does you need to clean it up and or use a speedy sleeve. use a good double lipped seal.
Tim
Last edited:
75MIKE
Sr. Member
$1000 ?
For that money you could figure what you need and buy all new stuff.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/bronco_rear_axle
For that money you could figure what you need and buy all new stuff.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/bronco_rear_axle
So true.....you can get new axles with studs, bearings and retainer already installed. Just slide the old out replace the seal and put the new axles in....
Tim
75MIKE
Sr. Member
Check your rear housing vent fitting and make sure it's not plugged before you get your credit card out.
There are shops and auto parts stores that will press the bearings off and on for you - yes you can do it yourself with a torch/hammer/ chisel and etc - but take it to someone with a press.
Pulling the axles and seals isn't hard or complicated and definitely a do it yourself.
When you put the seals back in use a thin coat of oil resistant sealant on the metal to metal contact surface of the seal .
Pulling the axles and seals isn't hard or complicated and definitely a do it yourself.
When you put the seals back in use a thin coat of oil resistant sealant on the metal to metal contact surface of the seal .
Hi, you need to pull the brake drum and see if it is rear end fluid or brake fluid before anything else.
Put your location in your info. If you are near some Bronco guys you can probably get help for some cold ones.
Good luck
Put your location in your info. If you are near some Bronco guys you can probably get help for some cold ones.
Good luck
Thanks for telling me to update my info! I missed that in registration.
The fluid is definitely rear end fluid.
If you have room a HF 20 ton press is $150-$200 depending on sale. They come in SO handy. I find all sorts of uses for mine.
Tim
Tim
Hi, you probably need brake shoes anyway. If the shoes are contaminated with rear end fluid they are no good. Good luck
Look up ford 9 inch
Save your money and do it yourself. Look up some videos on "Ford 9 inch bearing replacement" on youtube. There are some really good ones that give you a feel for what is involved.
You can take the new ones to be pressed on to a machine shop or a friend/neighbor that has one. Takes them 10 minutes to do both sides. It is a good learning experience.
Save your money and do it yourself. Look up some videos on "Ford 9 inch bearing replacement" on youtube. There are some really good ones that give you a feel for what is involved.
You can take the new ones to be pressed on to a machine shop or a friend/neighbor that has one. Takes them 10 minutes to do both sides. It is a good learning experience.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 51,619
What they all said.
There are relatively easy ways to start the ball rolling though, but due to so many things that could have been done in the last 45 years, the final determination is going to happen ONLY after you remove the axles. Previous owners seem to change things on a whim!
If yours is not very highly modified, chances are still very good that it has the original axles in it. Maybe even the original bearings and seals. This means that your leak is probably a good thing because it's telling you to get in there and change the old bearings before an axle falls out!
Here is our page with a starter's guide to telling whether you have the small bearing or the big bearing rear end: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/bronco_rear_axle
Generally speaking though, if your brake drums are 10" you have small bearings. If they are 11" then you have large bearings.
This information will tell you which seals and bearings you will need to buy ahead of time. If the axle shafts looks like they have been changed however (maybe a label with a company name on the end?) you could have the tapered roller bearings #Set-20 style that came on later model full size Ford pickups with the 9" big bearing axle.
Yours originally came with sealed bearings and 28 spline axle shafts, and the type of bearing is not interchangeable to another axle shaft.
Removing the brake drums will let you see the hole in the axle flange that lets you put a deep socket on to the 4 axle and brake backing plate retaining bolts. Once those are out you can pull the axle shafts out.
I say "you can pull" but if these are original and have never been removed before, they are not going to easily give up and come out. Likely you'll need to rent/borrow a puller. Usually at least one side gives you some grief. Sometimes both.
Lots more to know when you're doing this kind of a job. As said it's not very technical or difficult, and other than a puller and slide-hammer and torque wrench does not require any special tools initially. But it helps to know not only what you're looking at, but also what you're looking for when you get the parts out.
Although I suppose a seal puller and jack-stands can be considered special tools that are needed too. The first is not critical, but helps a lot. The second is a critical tool so hopefully you have good jackstands.
If you go slow and check in here we can tell you the pitfalls and things-to-do-while-yer-there stuff. If you've done some light work on vehicles before you may already know to look for grooves and damage to the axles and know how to be careful installing the new seal. But if not, YouTube is going to be your friend. As are we!
Good luck.
Paul
There are relatively easy ways to start the ball rolling though, but due to so many things that could have been done in the last 45 years, the final determination is going to happen ONLY after you remove the axles. Previous owners seem to change things on a whim!
If yours is not very highly modified, chances are still very good that it has the original axles in it. Maybe even the original bearings and seals. This means that your leak is probably a good thing because it's telling you to get in there and change the old bearings before an axle falls out!
Here is our page with a starter's guide to telling whether you have the small bearing or the big bearing rear end: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/bronco_rear_axle
Generally speaking though, if your brake drums are 10" you have small bearings. If they are 11" then you have large bearings.
This information will tell you which seals and bearings you will need to buy ahead of time. If the axle shafts looks like they have been changed however (maybe a label with a company name on the end?) you could have the tapered roller bearings #Set-20 style that came on later model full size Ford pickups with the 9" big bearing axle.
Yours originally came with sealed bearings and 28 spline axle shafts, and the type of bearing is not interchangeable to another axle shaft.
Removing the brake drums will let you see the hole in the axle flange that lets you put a deep socket on to the 4 axle and brake backing plate retaining bolts. Once those are out you can pull the axle shafts out.
I say "you can pull" but if these are original and have never been removed before, they are not going to easily give up and come out. Likely you'll need to rent/borrow a puller. Usually at least one side gives you some grief. Sometimes both.
Lots more to know when you're doing this kind of a job. As said it's not very technical or difficult, and other than a puller and slide-hammer and torque wrench does not require any special tools initially. But it helps to know not only what you're looking at, but also what you're looking for when you get the parts out.
Although I suppose a seal puller and jack-stands can be considered special tools that are needed too. The first is not critical, but helps a lot. The second is a critical tool so hopefully you have good jackstands.
If you go slow and check in here we can tell you the pitfalls and things-to-do-while-yer-there stuff. If you've done some light work on vehicles before you may already know to look for grooves and damage to the axles and know how to be careful installing the new seal. But if not, YouTube is going to be your friend. As are we!
Good luck.
Paul
I've had incredible good luck by removing the brake drum, flipping it over and loosely putting it on. Then use the drum and studs as a slide hammer. A few pulls and they seem to pop out. Showed my SNL that trick a few week back on his Samurai.
That said there's always a chance one will be a bugger.
Tim
Silver dollar
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2020
- Messages
- 16
Hey Tim
Glad I read this post. I have never heard of a speedy sleeve. I have an axle with the groove worn in it. Sounds like you have given me an easy fix.
Thanks
Glad I read this post. I have never heard of a speedy sleeve. I have an axle with the groove worn in it. Sounds like you have given me an easy fix.
Thanks
I just did the axle and third member on my 74. They were original and would not come out with the drum trick. In my opinion it is worth buying new axle assemblies. Rent a slide hammer, seal puller and a torque wrench. Currie has a very good step by step instructions on there site.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 51,619
Hey Silver dollar. There is also the Redi-Sleeve if they're still out there. And one or two other brands as well. All do the same thing, and I don't know if anyone has ever found one to be better than the other, but at least you know there are multiple choices.
How bad is your groove? If it's just a light one then a light quick job with some 400 grit sandpaper can work wonders on it. As well as seating the seal to a different depth, which is what I've done on different occasions. Not just with 9 rear ends.
I also like the idea of that seal mentioned above that's a different depth to begin with.
All are legit options depending on how deep your damage. Typically a seal like ours won't dig such a deep groove that it's dangerous, but you have to determine when a re-sleeve is acceptable, and when replacing the axle entirely is called for.
Paul
How bad is your groove? If it's just a light one then a light quick job with some 400 grit sandpaper can work wonders on it. As well as seating the seal to a different depth, which is what I've done on different occasions. Not just with 9 rear ends.
I also like the idea of that seal mentioned above that's a different depth to begin with.
All are legit options depending on how deep your damage. Typically a seal like ours won't dig such a deep groove that it's dangerous, but you have to determine when a re-sleeve is acceptable, and when replacing the axle entirely is called for.
Paul
