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Aod initial start up overheating

G's Baja Bronco

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I started my 5.0 engine with the EFI stang conversion for the first time today. it started up on the first try, a small exhaust leak.

I also rebuilt the AOD with the internals upgrades from the 4r70W and added 10 qts of fluid before starting it up.

after 10 minutes of the engine revved at around 3k rpm;s the trans overheated, in park.

the engine felt booged down, if I shifted to drive, no drive shafts, the engine would rev perfectly.

I do NOT have a tv cable in it, but do I need it in park?
 

DirtDonk

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Maybe, yes. The pump doesn't like pumping air, and that won't cool the tranny.
Oh, and is this a roller cammed engine? If so, you don't need to go through that elaborate cam break-in procedure.

I know you can only get so much trans fluid into it during the initial fill, before it's full, but the assumption is that, as soon as the engine starts, you're going to be pouring additional fluid into the filler/dipstick hole, as the pump is pulling fluid out of the pan and allowing for more to be put in.
That's how I've always done it anyway. Maybe it's not as critical as I make it out to be, but I was always a little paranoid about running an automatic with insufficient fluid in it.

Good luck. Hope it's all ok and just needs a top-off.
Btw, how did you know it was overheating? Do you have a trans-temp gauge? Was it smoking or smelling funny?
Just curious.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Just re-read your first post. How many quarts is an AOD supposed to hold? Even if 10 qts is not enough, I would think that would be enough to keep it alive.
Some transmissions take a TON of fluid though, so maybe someone can say how little is too little.

Paul
 
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G's Baja Bronco

G's Baja Bronco

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Paul, I had about 10 quart in it, I understand it takes 12 to fill the whole thing. I was revving the engine and after 10 minutes or so, I could see smoke from the tranny filler tube.
I stopped the engine and re torqued the trans pan bolts, cause I has a small leak.

I restarted the engine and revved it up for about 10 minutes again, this time the trans fluid must have boiled, cause it poured out from the top vent of the trans. teh fluid smells burned.

I plan to remove the fluid by removing the pan and draining the TQ. I will then check and see if there is any debris in the pan.

Should I connect a TV cable before I re-start with the new fluid?

BTW, I did put it into gear and the engine revved easier, I could see the Transfer case turning, no drive shafts yet,
 

DirtDonk

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I would absolutely install and properly adjust the cable. I can't say exactly what it does or why, but all I've ever heard is that you can ruin a perfectly good tranny by not having it hooked up.
i would have thought it more of a "while driving" issue, rather than just an idling in park issue, but don't know enough about the function to say.
I'm sure someone knows the whole thing. Maybe needabronco can fill in the blanks.

Good luck. Burned fluid is not a good initial sign, but at least the fluid takes the initial hurt. With luck, it took some of it on and away from the mechanicals.

Paul
 

Broncobowsher

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TV cable not hooked up should not hurt anything when in park. It can fry a transmission if you drive it because the line pressure may be too low and you will slip the clutches. In park none of the clutches should be applied so it doesn't matter.

Now you stated you shifted to drive and the engine reved perfectly normal, but you had no driveshafts. There is no load so that sounds right. Did the speedometer spin up when you did this? It should have.

My best guess is something didn't go together right in the transmission. Valve body stuck a valve, torque convertor didn't get seted correctly in the front pump, trans cooler line not flowing. Going to have to take it apart and figure what happened.

10 quarts is eough to keep an AOD lubed up. May not be enough to drive but should not have burned up either. In park all that really happens in the transmission is parts spin around and some oil is tossed on them. nothing should be under any load. Something was. The only way to know what is to take it apart.
 
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G's Baja Bronco

G's Baja Bronco

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That is what I expected, I will take it out and check.

I am considering a 4R70 w while I am at it :cool:

since I did such a good job with the EFI harness.


Thanks, Broncobowsher
 
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G's Baja Bronco

G's Baja Bronco

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Bowsher, I just heard from an EXPERT at Dirty Dog performance and he is telling me to install a TV cable before I remove the trans and disassemble.

do you think it is worth installing the TV cable and running the engine in park, rev it up for 10 minutes and see if it overheats again???:?

I am afraid I will do more damage to the internal, and I do not want to change the fluid (80 dlls) to have it burn again. :-[
 
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G's Baja Bronco

G's Baja Bronco

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I pulled the TV linkage all the way back, I understand that this lower the pressure to the minimum, and in park the engine still bogged down. I put it in drive and the engine is free, the Transfer case yokes rotate and after 5 minutes of revving up and idling, the trans is nice and cool.

Any Ideas?
 
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G's Baja Bronco

G's Baja Bronco

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I just ordered a ATSG manual to see how much in car trouble shooting I can do, after that I will drop the valve body and make sure it is all clean and not sticking. I will also check all the servos.:cool:

once I have exhausted this, I will take it out and disassemble if necessary. :cool:
 

Broncobowsher

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Don't know at this point. Reached my limits of diagnosing AODs via remote control at this point.
 
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G's Baja Bronco

G's Baja Bronco

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No worries Guys, gotta enjoy the Build, Navigator required one of the 8 coils to get back to normal for the wifey.

My Bro came over with a friend I had not seen for years, good times.

I will fight the AOD next, I appreciate the help and support :cool:
 
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G's Baja Bronco

G's Baja Bronco

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I updated this on the build thread, now here.

the Valve Body gear selector shaft was now connected to the selector arm, I messed this up when I changed to the Crown vic arm to clear the front driveshaft.

the behavior makes sense now, it was always in drive, and when I would put it in park and start the engine, it was like having it in drive and hitting the brakes and gas at the same time, after 10-15 minutes the fluid would boil over.

if I had in on any gear other than park, it would spin freely and even after revving and idling for 15 minutes or more, no overheating resulted.

Now I just got to assemble it again and put it back into the EB.;D
 
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