• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

AOD Trouble

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,931
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I liked my AOD, but the application was totally different and the AOD assembly that I had for my '68 never got installed. I prefer an auto for a large displacement engine in a 4x4, not so much for a small displacement engine.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,049
I will say that screwing around with the parts on hand to get it driving is fine. Investing in a rebuild, not good. There is no resale value on an AOD. Even one with a Bronco adapter kit. I doubt you could even get the cost of the kit back.

As for James saying you already have the 31 spline adapter, well you might have a 31 spline adaptor. The typical adapter is 27 spline. But given the hack install, they may have gifted you a NP205. We don't know what you really have in there. And the 205 would be a 31 spline input transfer case with no aftermarket adapter. They mostly bolt together out of junkyard parts.
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
2,590
Loc.
Fremont, CA
I will say that screwing around with the parts on hand to get it driving is fine. Investing in a rebuild, not good. There is no resale value on an AOD. Even one with a Bronco adapter kit. I doubt you could even get the cost of the kit back.

As for James saying you already have the 31 spline adapter, well you might have a 31 spline adaptor. The typical adapter is 27 spline. But given the hack install, they may have gifted you a NP205. We don't know what you really have in there. And the 205 would be a 31 spline input transfer case with no aftermarket adapter. They mostly bolt together out of junkyard parts.
Did I get that wrong? I thought all the AOD to Dana 20 adapters shortened used the 4x4 version, or installed a custom shorter 31 spline output.

I checked the Advance kit, and the Novak kit. But I didn’t check them all.
 

kman67

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2005
Messages
178
Loc.
Aptos
01d503ec792704bab5d8914dac7d1c5b.jpg

For the Throttle Valve(TV) cable, it should be more inline from the mounting bracket to the TV lever. Maybe you need to bend the bracket so the cable is more inline. Here is my Lokar TV cable. Disregard the shift lever as I inverted it to have my Winters shifter cable come in from the rear. Also in the pic is my Dakota shifter sensor.
Kyle


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
2,590
Loc.
Fremont, CA
I liked my AOD, but the application was totally different and the AOD assembly that I had for my '68 never got installed. I prefer an auto for a large displacement engine in a 4x4, not so much for a small displacement engine.
Allow me to be a little less clear.

The AOD is mechanically modulated. As with all mechanical autos, it's shift schedule is determined by a set of competing inputs. The output shaft governor is a centrifugal device that provides a variable pressure signal to the valve body in proportion to output shaft speed.

The valve body must schedule the shift points based on engine RPM, engine load, driver demand, and road speed. Guess what. Those pieces of information are not provided to the transmission.

The transmission has a series of hydraulic channels that must be pressurized in order to select a gear ratio. So the valve body has the unfortunate task of scheduling the upshift, And it has to do that while the idiot operator is commanding various demands. If you shift to soon, it's a slug. If you shift too late, the engine screams. If you shift too fast, it's a jolt. If you shift too slow, it's a marshmallow.

But how does the valve body (mechanical brain) know what the operator wants, and what the engine is doing? Enter the vacuum modulator. The modulator was an ingenious device that could inform the valve body of load on the engine. Coupled with a demand over-ride device, (kick-down linkage) the valve body could successfully schedule upshifts to meet "normal" driving conditions and be tuned to function. This technique worked from 1950 to the mid 90's. So 40 years of evolution and success. If the engine vacuum is low, delay the shift. If the engine vacuum is high, schedule the shift. If you point an old 3 speed down hill, and let it idle in "D" it will coast, and shift itself into 3rd at about 20 MPH. Same transmission at WOT on the freeway, and the 2-3 upshift happens at 70 MPH. The entire schedule is interpreted by knowing the engine load and demand. And manifold vacuum gives a reasonable analog variable representation of that. But engine vacuum is finicky, and vacuum modulators require service and maintenence. Fast forward to 1980, and the re-introduction of the throttle valve. But with a twist. The throttle valve did not simply provide an analog pressure between two setpoints. It provided a full scale pressure based on "throttle position" and with no position input at all...it commanded zero pressure. So disconnecting the throttle valve cable (or installing it as a WOT kickdown) initiated the self-destruct sequence. Furthermore, the TV pressure output is "tuned" to match the somewhat linear engine load approximation of a 4bbl carburetor primary butterfly...which is TOTALLY different than the engine load experienced on a single giant EFI throttle body butterfly. It is a very sensitive, and precise, and the most important input signal to the transmission. And it is almost NEVER calibrated and tuned correctly, except by the factory...sometimes.

This scenario worked, (or didn't work...) from 1980 to about 1991...when the automotive world figured out that a computer could be installed with the transmission, and scheduling could be performed electronically. And the world changed. (...but It did make a Billionaire out of Anthony A. Martino, the founder of AAMCO.) Once the electronic scheduling started, and once the solenoids improved, automatic transmission were changed (and improved) forever.

So IF you are a competent auto enthusiast, AND you carefully calibrate your Throttle valve to your engine load, (or clone someone else's) then you have a chance of getting your AOD to schedule properly. Then you only need to perform the mechanical upgrades to the internals to get it to survive. But it's even better if you add a computer. Ford did this for you in the 1996 Explorer 5.0. They call it a 4R70W, but it's really an AOD-E with all the upgrades and a new name. ( And of course GM and the 700-R4 had to be renamed 4L60E.)

So either pony up and put a durable 6HP26 in it, or run the manual.
 

bronco italiano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
2,593
01d503ec792704bab5d8914dac7d1c5b.jpg

For the Throttle Valve(TV) cable, it should be more inline from the mounting bracket to the TV lever. Maybe you need to bend the bracket so the cable is more inline. Here is my Lokar TV cable. Disregard the shift lever as I inverted it to have my Winters shifter cable come in from the rear. Also in the pic is my Dakota shifter sensor.
Kyle


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very nice setup. Due you surf in Aptos? I got a few buddies out there.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,931
Loc.
Upper SoKA
@jamesroney Mine had a Transgo valve body kit in it set on "Taxi Service" and the "SuperCat" OD Servo. I sourced it from a junk yard with unknown miles on it already. It shifted when I thought it appropriate, it generally did what it was supposed to do when it was supposed to do it. The only situation where it is didn't was part throttle cruise at around 45 mph. It would shift into OD then, which was not the correct call. I had a Pontiac OEM ratchet shifter operating the gear selection and it was no big deal to pull it down one detent out of OD. Most of the time I shifted out of P into one detent down from N and it worked fine for years being operated like that. I even frequently flat-towed the avatar with that set-up. It was behind a warmish 302 with an AFB, turned 3.80 8" gears in a '67 Ranchero with a ~24" tall rear tire.
I probably didn't know enough when I set it up, but after the 100,000th or so minor iteration of the TV op-rod system it didn't kill itself, it operated well, and has caused me to wonder why people dis it so much when I had no complaints about it. Maybe hydraulic logic has fallen out of favor, but it does still work and while it can have it's own glitches it isn't subject to the electro-mechanical glitches and purely electronic glitches like the 42RLE.
I find funny that folks talk about how superior electronic logic is, all the while forgetting that they're standing on hydraulic logic's shoulders.
 
Last edited:

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,049
Ford never put the AOD with a 4-barrel carb either. So there was never a 'copy the factory linkage' option for that.

As for the shift like a marshmellow or with a jerk, that is line pressure for the most part. At low throttle, the clutches get light line pressure so they engage easy. Still quick, but not a sledgehammer hit. As the engine power goes up, the clutches have to apply with more gusto as that light pressure would just be massive amounts of slip/heat/wear. It is still a nice shift to the driver, the higher pressure is holding the clutches harder so they don't slip under the increased engine power. That is the nice thing about a vacuum modulator, the manifold vacuum at a given engine speed is proportional to the torque produced at that speed.

When you get things wrong. the transmission sees inputs of heavy (full?) throttle. Line pressure goes up so the clutches will hold the torque they are expected to see. Clutch engagment is abrupt. Shift point are at max engine speed, it thinks your foot is to the floor. When you don't see a shift that you think you should have, stuck in gear feel.
The other way is even worse. Thinks you are at idle, you are giving it the beans. Engine is making torque but the clutches have only light pressure on them as it sees you are at idle. This is where you can power through the clutch. Transmission slips, more correctly the clutches in the transmission slip. Those quick shifts are there to keep the clutches alive. A slipping clutch pack is a smoked clutch pack.

The old school shift kits. The RV/tow setting. Generally didn't change any shift points. But it did up the line pressure going to the clutches. They firmed p the shifts with that higher pressure. a quicker shift is better for the clutch. Might be harder on other parts, not as comfortable to drive, but the clutches will be happy.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,931
Loc.
Upper SoKA
The carb and not getting the TV ratio right is why it took many iterations of that linkage. It wasn't enough to match the carb's throttle lever travel, also had to get the clocking correct so that the shift firmness followed in step with the throttle angle. It wasn't rocket surgery, just took some iterations to get it to work correctly.
I put the AOD in the Ranchero in '93 or '94, and sold it in '97.
 
OP
OP
TheWall25

TheWall25

Contributor
New Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2026
Messages
5
Thanks y'all for the "spirited" and "passionate" feedback haha! I was hoping that the AOD was something that might be fixable for under a few hundred $, just to get back on the road again and enjoy the car while I plan for the manual swap (and a hose of other projects), but the more I dig the worse things look. I think a reasonable plan is as follows, but let me know if I'm missing anything:

1. Remove the shoddy shift linkage, shift into D at the trans and test drive it to see if it shifts.
2. Fix the TV cable routing at the trans and carb, test the TV fluid pressure using a gauge. Adjust TV cable to see if I can get it within spec.

If both 1 and 2 are ok:
3a. Buy a adjustable linkage kit to get the shifter working. Something like https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/aod-automatic-trans-shift-linkage-kit-for-use-with-ford.
4a. Keep working on the manual dream.

If 1 or 2 are bad:
3b. Decide if I want to spend any more $$$ on getting this trans working or biting the bullet getting the manual swap going.

The reason I'm hestitant on jumping into the manual swap is I have a 9 month old daughter, so the windows that I can work on the car are pretty limited. It'd be nice to have a drivable bronco for the cooler weather we're going to get in Houston the new few months before it's a million degrees out again.
 
Last edited:
Top