As close to "Barn Find" I've come...

[75Denver]

Other than that damn hood dent that is one very nice stock Bronco.

Thanks man!! The polishing brought out a lot of dents and dings. I've got a buddy that might be able to work that out. Though, without looking at it, I want to say right behind it is a second layer that folds up under the lip of the hood.

 

[75Denver]

Aaaaand new shoes. The last set was built in 1989

 

[Teal68]

I don't know man.....you better pull that out in the light so we can see it better!

 

[sprdv1]

My personal take would be to clean up the original paint as much as possible. Oxidation is different than surface rust patina. As far as mechanical, PS, PDB, and lift can all be changed back and if it improves the ride/safety of the vehicle you will be more likely to drive it. So swap the parts out and keep the originals, they can always be put back on down the road.

I'd do that as well...

 

[DirtDonk]

...but has anyone swapped the manual for power steering shafts? Do the bearings and races interchange (I would expect so).

Not directly. The shafts themselves are compatible in some cases, but the power and manual gear boxes use different splined input shaft sizes.
Stock manual is 3/4" x 36, while power is 13/16" x 36 spline.
Check out the info at the beginning of this page: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/Bronco_Steering_Shafts
Be aware too that some power steering kit boxes have different input sizes altogether from the other two.

You can see that you'd need both halves of the shaft and other stuff.
You would also want a later shaft with the slip design for safety if you're going to go to the trouble.
Different vehicles too, but the upper shaft (the part inside the column) would likely be different. One way to adapt the upper stock one to the new lower would be with a different yoke/joint with either a 3/4" x 36 spline upper interface (if your column had that) or, for your earlier manual one, a 3/4" DD and modify your existing one-piece shaft.

When I drove it around the block it seems as if something was dragging or causing resistance through a gear source...I don't know how better to explain the sound and feel.

Better check the transfer case shifter location! You might be in 4wd and that's a no-no on the pavement in most cases.
If you make sure the hubs are unlocked (and unlocking of course) the t-case position should not matter. But if you're in 4wd and the hubs are locked, you might be trying to turn two different sized gear sets. Even from the factory there were very slight mismatches (4.11 vs 4.10 for instance) that would bind up on the street.

The more I gassed it the louder the whining sound was and the more resistance or reverse pull there was.

Whining is not a good sign, so stop driving until you determine the source. However, in 4wd you do get a lot of gear noise from the straight-cut t-case gears. So that might also be a good indicator of you being in 4wd.

Paul

 

[broncobsession]

Just a fantastic little truck. Great find.

 

[Vin218]

Love it, just a nice original looking classic

 

[75Denver]

I don't know man.....you better pull that out in the light so we can see it better!

Not all of us have the lush shady backyard and garage space such as yourself. I'll get it out and have a proper photo session once it's up to my standards. I've only done one side thus far

 

[75Denver]

Not directly. The shafts themselves are compatible in some cases, but the power and manual gear boxes use different splined input shaft sizes.
Stock manual is 3/4" x 36, while power is 13/16" x 36 spline.
Check out the info at the beginning of this page: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/Bronco_Steering_Shafts
Be aware too that some power steering kit boxes have different input sizes altogether from the other two.

You can see that you'd need both halves of the shaft and other stuff.
You would also want a later shaft with the slip design for safety if you're going to go to the trouble.
Different vehicles too, but the upper shaft (the part inside the column) would likely be different. One way to adapt the upper stock one to the new lower would be with a different yoke/joint with either a 3/4" x 36 spline upper interface (if your column had that) or, for your earlier manual one, a 3/4" DD and modify your existing one-piece shaft.



Better check the transfer case shifter location! You might be in 4wd and that's a no-no on the pavement in most cases.
If you make sure the hubs are unlocked (and unlocking of course) the t-case position should not matter. But if you're in 4wd and the hubs are locked, you might be trying to turn two different sized gear sets. Even from the factory there were very slight mismatches (4.11 vs 4.10 for instance) that would bind up on the street.



Whining is not a good sign, so stop driving until you determine the source. However, in 4wd you do get a lot of gear noise from the straight-cut t-case gears. So that might also be a good indicator of you being in 4wd.

Paul

Paul- Thank you for all the information! I'll be researching the steering shafts today. If anything, I'll be mounting it up to a '76-'77 6turn Ford box (13/16"x36 ?). I've always been sketched out by having a solid steering shaft w/o any safety breakaway components but maybe that's a worry I need to get past.

Before I read this response (while the Bronco was off the ground getting tires), I went through each wheel to see what sort of resistance was occurring and if the t-case was the culprit. In fact, and I'll have to double check once it's running properly, the outer plastic t-case indicator panel is COMPLETELY loose from the main cover! What looked to be the right gear was in fact not the right gear....oops! The t-case will be pulled and rebuilt anyway as I know this thing has been in 4wd much of it's life. Time to get into the garage! Thanks again for the help.

 

[Teal68]

Not all of us have the lush shady backyard and garage space such as yourself. I'll get it out and have a proper photo session once it's up to my standards. I've only done one side thus far

Well it's looking great, and I'm enjoying the seeing progress! You are getting a lot done fast!

 

[sprdv1]

Aaaaand new shoes. The last set was built in 1989

True classic for sure. Looks great

 

[texk]

Great find, 75Denver! I have a '68 that is all original as well and is my daily driver. No PS or PB but not a problem for me. I kind of like the fact that it drives exactly like it did in '68. Oh, my 16 year old daughter drives it too and it is her favorite ride. Just go drive it and enjoy!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[6677ebman]

AWESOME story buddy, you really scored. In 20+ yrs of EB travels, I've had similar transactions and made some good friends that I still talk with. Glad to hear your plans for that thing, keep it original & add ps & pdb's, added comforts such as those are great to have, for safety and convenience. I had a '71 that color once, but it was a plain-Jane 6 banger. Drive it & take care of it, I'm sure you will

 

[75Denver]

I think the fact that more people can see how these were commonly set up back when they were new is cool too. Three gas tanks, rifle racks, CB full whip antenna, and probably even other stuff for camping, shooting, rock-hounding and just basic adventuring.

Great color (very common around here back then), Sport trim and all.
Is it an early '71 with Dana 30? What month was it built and does it still have the door pillar decal?
Curious to see more detailed under-hood pics too. There were some very minor tweaks here and there between '70 and '71, and it's great to be able to document any and all original stuff while we can.

Paul

Hey Paul- I've had a little time under the hood and wanted to ask, what's different during those years? I'll get a picture of the engine bay so we can all dissect the image and parts, but I have noticed a few things that I didn't reside on my '69 or '75 of the past.

 

[DirtDonk]

The biggest differences I remember off-hand, besides the Dana 30 to 44 swap that is, would have been visible under the hood in these:

1. Change in air-cleaner snorkel orientation (and possibly color, going from Black to Blue in some cases) and to accommodate the EVAP stuff.

2. Evap stuff... Charcoal canister on the passenger frame rail with a couple of hoses up to the compartment.

3. PCV system reversed with the valve now on the driver's side and the elbow for the clean air intake on the passenger.

4. Major overhaul with the wiring harness. No more twin rectangular firewall plugs, two major branches with grommets instead of the earlier single one, and the fuse panel now in the glove compartment rather than the driver's side firewall.

5. Related to evap, the fuel filler necks were changed so you could not retrofit the earlier style gas caps with two-way venting. Fuel tanks now both had not only fill-vents, but also vapor vents.

6. Also evap, but figured I'd list it separately, is the condensing tank mounted inside the cabin behind the driver's left shoulder behind a panel. Because the charcoal canister was low-mounted, liquid gas was collected in this tank first, then drained back to the main tank. Any remaining vapors made it up to the charcoal canister and were re-introduced into the engine intake.

7. I think '70 may already have had it, but by '71 the wiper washer reservoir was the larger, more squared off one that was used to '77.

8. Location of the voltage regulator varied over the years, but I don't remember '71 being different from '69. Not sure, but the regulator would be on the passenger inner fender skirt, behind the battery area.

9. Starter relay mounted facing the battery, as opposed to the side of the wheel well facing the engine. Not sure when that changed, or if it was a 6-cylinder vs V8 thing, but I see a lot of earlier models with it facing the engine.

10. Dual-diaphragm distributor and it's little control/delay thingy at the back of the intake would have been there over several years up to '72. But I'm not sure when that first started.

11. Automatic choke replaced manual at some point, but I think the '70's already had that.

That's about it. Probably some other minor things, but can't say for sure.

Paul

 

[75Denver]

The biggest differences I remember off-hand, besides the Dana 30 to 44 swap that is, would have been visible under the hood in these:

1. Change in air-cleaner snorkel orientation (and possibly color, going from Black to Blue in some cases) and to accommodate the EVAP stuff.

2. Evap stuff... Charcoal canister on the passenger frame rail with a couple of hoses up to the compartment.

3. PCV system reversed with the valve now on the driver's side and the elbow for the clean air intake on the passenger.

4. Major overhaul with the wiring harness. No more twin rectangular firewall plugs, two major branches with grommets instead of the earlier single one, and the fuse panel now in the glove compartment rather than the driver's side firewall.

5. Related to evap, the fuel filler necks were changed so you could not retrofit the earlier style gas caps with two-way venting. Fuel tanks now both had not only fill-vents, but also vapor vents.

6. Also evap, but figured I'd list it separately, is the condensing tank mounted inside the cabin behind the driver's left shoulder behind a panel. Because the charcoal canister was low-mounted, liquid gas was collected in this tank first, then drained back to the main tank. Any remaining vapors made it up to the charcoal canister and were re-introduced into the engine intake.

7. I think '70 may already have had it, but by '71 the wiper washer reservoir was the larger, more squared off one that was used to '77.

8. Location of the voltage regulator varied over the years, but I don't remember '71 being different from '69. Not sure, but the regulator would be on the passenger inner fender skirt, behind the battery area.

9. Starter relay mounted facing the battery, as opposed to the side of the wheel well facing the engine. Not sure when that changed, or if it was a 6-cylinder vs V8 thing, but I see a lot of earlier models with it facing the engine.

10. Dual-diaphragm distributor and it's little control/delay thingy at the back of the intake would have been there over several years up to '72. But I'm not sure when that first started.

11. Automatic choke replaced manual at some point, but I think the '70's already had that.

That's about it. Probably some other minor things, but can't say for sure.

Paul

Hey Paul-
Thank you for all the great info! I've been away but thought I'd follow up on my engine shots. I'll let you and everyone else input, but here are a couple things I found different to this mid-year engine that I haven't seen before.

As an update, I haven't had much time to wrench on the Bronco but did tackle a couple hours on Sunday/Monday. I was able to replace the water pump, radiator, fuel filters/line, battery and cables, and clean up a couple odds and ends. As much as I wanted to fire it up and putting it back together, I knew the tanks and remaining fuel components still needed attention so I pulled the 3 tanks (3rd tank was a beezy!!) and have those off to be boiled and cleaned. I've since stripped the entire interior, installed the headliner, dash pad, and door plastics. Next up is the upholstery while I wait for the tanks and then on to the undercarriage.

Here's a blast of images. Unfortunately I found WAY more rust than I'd hoped but the floors are still very solid. Does anyone have any tips to address the rust while still making it look factory fresh? I was thinking of the POR15 floor pan kit.

Underneath, I noticed that in areas like between the frame rail and tanks, the rubberized road-protection they sprayed actually trapped more moisture and caused light pitting in the frame and some body panels. My next 3 weekends are booked up but here's to hoping I can get this thing on the road by Oct! Sigh...

And just for fun, I'm literally dusting off the cobwebs on this thing!

 

[75Denver]

And one in the sun...

 

[surfer-b]

Great looking Bronco, that is a keeper for sure. Drive and enjoy it

 

[okie4570]

Awesome!

 

[hyghlndr]

Hey Paul-

Here's a blast of images. Unfortunately I found WAY more rust than I'd hoped but the floors are still very solid. Does anyone have any tips to address the rust while still making it look factory fresh? I was thinking of the POR15 floor pan kit.

QUOTE]

You must have never seen an East Coast truck ;D;D;D;D

I wish any of the original East Coast Broncos looked that nice. I would just lightly sand, treat, then paint the factory color with touch up paint.