Best Radiator

[redvettemike]

We are building a '77 Bronco for a client. It will be a fairly high end vehicle as the owner wants all the amenities. I am going to have many questions as regards this truck. The first is as regards a radiator. This will be a a/c equipped vehicle and will never see any mud or rocks. Just a really nice driver. What are the best choices for a radiator for a '77? Thanks for any guidance.
Mike

 

[70_Steve]

We are building a '77 Bronco for a client. It will be a fairly high end vehicle as the owner wants all the amenities. I am going to have many questions as regards this truck. The first is as regards a radiator. This will be a a/c equipped vehicle and will never see any mud or rocks. Just a really nice driver. What are the best choices for a radiator for a '77? Thanks for any guidance.
Mike

Of course "best" is extremely subjective!!! Best looks? Best price? Best cooling?

I will assume price is of minimal concern.

Best cooling I think would be a stock brass radiator. Or BC Broncos triple pass radiator. Not the best on looks though.

Lots of guys going with aluminum radiators. I would avoid Ron Davis radiators. Overly expensive and not the best customer support after they leak! Quite a few are using Champion aluminum radiators with some success. Polish the radiator and combine that with the Ron Davis aluminum shroud and you've got a blingy combo.

 

[redvettemike]

Of course "best" is extremely subjective!!! Best looks? Best price? Best cooling?

I will assume price is of minimal concern.

Best cooling I think would be a stock brass radiator. Or BC Broncos triple pass radiator. Not the best on looks though.

Lots of guys going with aluminum radiators. I would avoid Ron Davis radiators. Overly expensive and not the best customer support after they leak! Quite a few are using Champion aluminum radiators with some success. Polish the radiator and combine that with the Ron Davis aluminum shroud and you've got a blingy combo.

Yes, best cooling, best looks and best price (although operation, looks and quality will trump the price). Thanks for the advice.

 

[needabronco]

Frankly said the best is a re-cored stock radiator! Mine stays between 170-190 even at 110 degrees. A polished aluminum radiator looks the best but they WILL leak. If its actually going to get used. I'd stay with copper cored, if it'd 90% show go with aluminum.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've bought radiators from two of out vendors and both leaked within the warranty, were replaced, leaked again, and finally refunded. For the most functional, go to your local radiator shop. They're the experts and don't like comebacks any more than you do. I have a nice staggered three pass "X" core that fits the factory mounts. It weighs about a third more than the last 4 pass I had. It's a real quality piece but cost just over $350.

 

[rguest3]

Ron Davis Radiators.

Installed in every Bronco I have restored. Have not had one leak on me.

Best quality I have found.

 

[Master Chief]

I replaced my factory original radiator last fall due to upper seam separation with one of these from JBG...http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-10602-radiator-standard-4core-v-8.html

Needless to say, other than replacing the mounts it was a standard radiator job. I have had zero issues with it.

 

[balduccibros]

I've always used Ron Davis, top quality every time. If you are concerned with it leaking call and ask if he's had problems with them before. CBR also makes very nice products. I'd stat away from griffin and most of the other companies that sell through summit.

What is the cause of everyones radiators leaking? Cracked welds? Faulty construction? Mounting issues? Aluminum is much less durable than copper so maybe a stock bolt in aluminum radiator is just mounted poorly.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've always used Ron Davis, top quality every time. If you are concerned with it leaking call and ask if he's had problems with them before. CBR also makes very nice products. I'd stat away from griffin and most of the other companies that sell through summit.

What is the cause of everyones radiators leaking? Cracked welds? Faulty construction? Mounting issues? Aluminum is much less durable than copper so maybe a stock bolt in aluminum radiator is just mounted poorly.

Good point! I've seen hard poly bushings provided with mounts by some of the vendors. The best place for them is in the trash. Request rubber.

 

[SteveL]

The bc bronco radiators fit the stock brackets and keep my 351w's plenty cool in LA traffic.

 

[markperry]

Champion works well for me!

 

[broncnaz]

Another testiment to the BC or a stock recored radiator. I've tried a 4row form another vender wasnt impressed with it and it leaked. went to the BC radiator and no issues.

 

[bronconut73]

Another testiment to the BC or a stock recored radiator. I've tried a 4row form another vender wasnt impressed with it and it leaked. went to the BC radiator and no issues.

I have a 4 core from Duffs. 24 years old but few miles and zero corrosion. It's not quite keeping my Windsor cool.
Is your 3 core from BC a triple pass?
I like the idea of a triple pass. Is it a good idea?

 

[TAC71]

I have used Ron Davis rads in Broncos with no problems. Yes they cost a bit but the quality is there. Biggest issue with aluminum rads is the mounting, its usually way to rigid and stiff. The body flexs and twists the rad core causing a leak. I have seen it in many types of vehicles. I like to make rubber pin mounts for the bottom an a single centre rubber mount on the top. This way you don't introduce body flex into the rad.

 

[DirtDonk]

One thing to consider as well redvette, is the orientation of the inlet/outlet tubes.
If the engine and front accessory drive is going to remain stock, no change is needed. But if you're going to run one of the later model front serpentine drives, with the water pump inlet on the driver's side, there are two basic options.

1. Use a hose adapting method, such as a lower crossover tube and re-purposed or custom top hose, or...
2. A radiator made with the hose fittings reversed (and perhaps even sized specifically) for the later model front dress.

As an example of a shameless plug, here is the Ron Davis model we sell (image is of the EFI style, but is available either way) - http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Ron_Davis_Aluminum_No_Trans_Cooler

Paul

 

[redvettemike]

One thing to consider as well redvette, is the orientation of the inlet/outlet tubes.
If the engine and front accessory drive is going to remain stock, no change is needed. But if you're going to run one of the later model front serpentine drives, with the water pump inlet on the driver's side, there are two basic options.

1. Use a hose adapting method, such as a lower crossover tube and re-purposed or custom top hose, or...
2. A radiator made with the hose fittings reversed (and perhaps even sized specifically) for the later model front dress.

As an example of a shameless plug, here is the Ron Davis model we sell (image is of the EFI style, but is available either way) - http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Ron_Davis_Aluminum_No_Trans_Cooler

Paul

Paul: The vehicle has a custom serpentine belt set up on the front so we will have to address the inlet/outlet hose situation that you mention. I sent you a PM as perhaps you can aid me further.
Thanks for all the reponses. Mike

 

[rguest3]

Another thing to consider for serpentine is BCB reverse rotation water pump with their upper and lower radiator hoses.

Stock location hoses, stock radiator.

 

[Timmy390]

Frankly said the best is a re-cored stock radiator! Mine stays between 170-190 even at 110 degrees.

X2

My re-cored stock rad has been working well for 16 years now even after I put a screw driver through it (long story) and had it repaired. AR summers are a touch on the warm side and I run normal temps.

Tim

 

[SteveL]

When I gave up on the duff 4-corre(leaks) I swapped in the standard 3-core from bc. It keeps it cooler than the 4-core ever did.

 

[Dusty]

Another vote for Champion. They're inexpensive and seem to work great. I just installed one before the Big Bear Bronco Bash last weekend, and situations that would have had me heating up before (stock radiator) were no problem for the Champion, with coolant temps never getting over 190 (my thermostat temp). It was hot up there and there were hoods up all over the place every time we stopped, but not mine.

That said I can't vouch for its longevity since I just put it in. However, I will say that I believe most of those who have problems with leaky radiators have them mounted in the stock mounts on the stock core support. I believe the stock sheetmetal core support flexes a lot with the body, when the Bronco flexes, in turn tweaking the radiator enough to get it to loosen up at the seams where the tubes meet the tanks. I've never had this problem with any radiator, and I believe its because I use a more rigid tubular core support that doesn't flex with the body. I think for the OP, with his stated use, this won't be an issue. But this is my $.02 about some of the folks who seem to have chronic problems with new radiators leaking after a short time.