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Bringing down coolant temperature

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
It needs the bypass for many reasons.....short version, without bypass water can't move till the T-stat opens. Points below.....

Prevents hot spots: Without circulation during warm-up, trapped coolant in the closed-off engine can boil or create severe temperature spikes in the cylinder heads before the thermostat finally feels enough heat to open.

Helps the thermostat work: It keeps a steady flow of warm coolant washing past the thermostat bulb, helping it sense true engine temperature and open smoothly.

Vents trapped air: It gives air pockets a way to bleed out of the water pump and block when you are filling up the cooling system

Tim
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,058
Some do it better than others. 351C has the thermostat setup so the bypass closes as the thermostat opens. Many other engines do this as well. I remember a friend's 80s BMW that had a remote thermostat with 3 large hoses going to it. It was a bypass style as well.

Motorcycles have done it as well. Back when I was in the KLR world a taunted upgrade was the thermo-bob. The seller had data showing a more stable coolant temp with his remote bypass thermostat over that of the factory non-bypass thermostat. Oooohhh bling, has claims and some data provided by the seller to back it, must be better. I pointed out that countless bikes (including my own) were very high mileage and no issues with the stock thermostat and still running the factory top end.

As for how Ford did it. If you look at a factory thermostat housing (not counting aftermarket at this) the bypass hole is actually fairly small. The 5/8" hose is way bigger. But what they had buckets of hose clamps for going down the line. When the thermostat is open, very little coolant is going through that bypass.
Another thing is heaters. Not the Bronco, it has a shut off valve. But the millions of vehicles that don't have a coolant shut off valve that flow coolant through the heater core 100% of the time. That flows way more water around the thermostat than that tiny bypass hole.

Many decades ago I thought I would try and out engineer Ford. Living in AZ I wasn't really worried about warm up time, and through a little extra cooling would be trick. I took a stock thermostat housing and tapped a pipe plug into the outlet. I think I got by with a 1/8NPT plug. Then I drilled a crossover into the housing bypassing the thermostat. Wasn't a big hole, just wanted to emulate the bleed of the bypass but go through the radiator. It did slow the warm up time a lot, but did nothing to the overall coolant temps. In other words, I made it worse at warm up and improved nothing in the process.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,953
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I played around with using pipe plugs in that hole like Broncobowsher, only I drilled different size holes in them. My results out here on the Coastal Desert weren't a lot different and I eventually removed the "jet". If anything I felt like the hole could be BIGGER, but I was concerned about then having too much by-pass when hot.

I've detailed before how the I-H engines in Scouts use the moving part of a 'high flow' t-stat to close off their by-pass. I've occasionally thought hard about how to implement a similar system on a small block Ford and it gets complicated pretty quickly. Given that what's there works well enough it's hard to justify the time an expense.

I do drill an ~1/8" hole in the t-stat near the edge and install it with that hole at the top. This allows it to purge air faster and easier when filling the system and has proven to be nearly of no consequence in use. Some older Mazda t-stats came with this hole already, and they had a little piece of brass that was supposed to block the hole when the system had pressure from the water pump. I've never seen the need, but I'm pretty sure that it wasn't put there without a good reason.
 
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