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Broken flywheel on 302 removal

jtw69

New Member
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
3
BROKEN FLYWHEEL REMOVAL ON 302 HO W/O REMOVING ENGINE.
Hello EFB fans and guru's!!!
I have broken my flywheel on my 302HO in my 69' Bronco.
I have a C4 auto transmission and no frame modifications. And 3-1/2" suspension lift.
My question is... can I remove and replace the flywheel without pulling the motor. And install new main bearing seal at the same time?
Thanks for all your guidance.
James
Shell Beach, CA:cool:
 

DJs74

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Messages
1,135
If you have a C4, you have flexplate.

Yes, you can do what you are wanting to do with the engine in the Bronco but I would probably remove the engine, put it on a stand and do the job standing instead of laying on your back and reaching... that'll get old quick


DJs74
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,859
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
I would pull the trans and transfer case, you only need to pull them back 6-8”. A trans jack works great for this, or make something in conjunction with a floor jack. The one piece rear seal is easy to replace. Make sure you identify what size torque converter you have before ordering a new flex plate. There’s two sizes, 10.5” and 11.25”.

Mark
 

needsmoarturbo

Full Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Messages
278
You will need to remove either the engine or the transmission. No room or way to do it in place because you need to get a wrench on the bolts and be able to back them out. I would probably pull the trans out but I guess it's debatable whether that's easier than pulling the engine. Everybody has their own preference as to which is easier.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,428
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, I prefer to yank the engine and do most of the work from the top. I have a slab, no lift. As mentioned, you need a enough room to get some ratchet clearance and use a torque wrench on assembly. Good luck
 

Boss Hugg

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
2,161
I'm coming at it like this. You're gonna be underneath pulling the torque converter bolts anyway. So pull the driveshafts, cross member angle brackets, torque converter bolts, bell housing bolts, trans cooler lines, t case shifter and slide the transmission back enough to do the work.

And, in case I missed anything, this is why I hate pulling transmissions.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,124
I go with the "what else needs to be worked on at the same time" approach. It is almost always the engine. And since you are looking at doing a rear main seal I would pull the engine. Sounds like you have a late model engine, so that should be a 1-piece rear main seal. If it is a 2-piece seal you really want to pull the engine as the oil pan has to come off.

The flexplate (automatic transmission) has a few variables you have to get right.
Tooth count. This is based on the bellhousing of the transmission. For a Bronco version of a C4 it is 164 teeth. A car version may have fewer (157 tooth)
Balance. Early small blocks were 28.8 oz-in correction. It is a little weight on the flexplate like a weight for balancing a tire. In the 80's they did some changes to the crankshaft and changed the correction to 50.2 oz-in. Typically just refered to as 28 or 50 when shopping for parts. Get it wrong and it will shake.
Convertor bolt circle is another one. 11.4" is still used. 10.5 was factory built in some years and parts no longer exist forcing the change to the common 11.4 (in the 164 tooth flexplate version)
The last one is offset. When you have the 164 tooth and 11.4" bolt circle there are 2 different offsets. One is correct for the C4/AOD/4R70W transmissions. The other is for the C6/E4OD transmissions. Use a C6 on a C4 and it will bottom out the convertor into the pump.
 
OP
OP
J

jtw69

New Member
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
3
Right... got the picture and have to weigh my options. Since I do not have a garage right now, working under my Bronco makes more sense to me. I do have to deal with a set of Headman headers that dump on both sides of the C4. I do have a late model 302HO out of an 89' mustang... thank-you Broncobowsher for the flexplate info.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,105
What clue did it give you that it was broken? And is it cracked, or actually broken as in pieces flying around where they shouldn't be flying?;)

Is it still drivable?

Paul
 

edmedlin

Full Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
260
Loc.
Republic Missouri
Make sure you have the right counter weight on your flex plate. My later 302 performance motor has a 50oz flex plate. Make sure you know what one to get so you don't vibrate all the bolts out of your EB.... :)
 
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