Bronco swerves HARD side to side over 10 MPH

[John_parkeriv]

With the location of the bolt holes I don't see you being able to add DOM inserts inside the frame. My suggestion is to weld 1/8th plate top, bottom, and sides. The frame will flex. My frame was cracked from flexing....

Tim

Anybody got a good right up on that? Or is this one of those, "everybody's got their own method" kinda deals?

 

[John_parkeriv]

After you get the steering box attached correctly, put the bushings in. With a lift and stock bushings you will have negative caster, that will not track well.
Since they sound like they are new and never installed, return the bushings and get 7° bushings. The 4° with the 2½" would be a good match if you still had manual steering. But with power steering the extra 3° of caster will make things better.

Get the steering box bolted on correctly and 7° bushings and it will drive just fine.

Ordered these YEARS ago pre-lift and just never put them in. I'll more than likely just eat the 4° ones and go buy some 7°'s.

 

[Timmy390]

Anybody got a good right up on that? Or is this one of those, "everybody's got their own method" kinda deals?

You could try to cut the DOM in half and see how it fits in the frame. The factory inserts are JUNK and ease to knock out.

I welded plate on both sides and added the DOM inserts after welding up the crack in the frame. Mine is solid as a rock now. You really need plate and inserts....my suggestion of welding to and bottom is really if you cant get inserts. Welding on the top might make the bolt hold locations even worse.

Tim

 

[John_parkeriv]

You could try to cut the DOM in half and see how it fits in the frame. The factory inserts are JUNK and ease to knock out.

I welded plate on both sides and added the DOM inserts after welding up the crack in the frame. Mine is solid as a rock now. You really need plate and inserts....my suggestion of welding to and bottom is really if you cant get inserts. Welding on the top might make the bolt hold locations even worse.

Tim

Did you cut into the frame or just add the plate on top? I don't really see a good way to reach this tubes without a slide hammer or cutting the frame side open.

 

[Timmy390]

Did you cut into the frame or just add the plate on top? I don't really see a good way to reach this tubes without a slide hammer or cutting the frame side open.

I knocked the factory inserts out with a hammer and large screw driver. They're JUNK....mine practically fell out after a couple good pops. You should be able to look through the front of the frame horn and see them. Might already be knocked out by the PO.

I cut nothing. I just welded plate on each side of the frame then drilled the holes as needed. I covered as much as I could of the frame in plate. Inside and out to spread the load. I run a Delphi box so only had to drill one hole. The Delph box mounts with 4 good spots. I can't find pictures of the DOM used. It was 1/4 wall. I picked it up local.

I also see from the one pic you posted....one bolt you show isn't even tight to the frame. The nut is hitting the cross member ear. Need to address that too.

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

If the hole location is in the right place to fit under the top plate of the frame, couldn’t he just drill a hole and insert a bolt?
Being there at the edge of the frame should keep it from crushing I would think. At least it’s stronger than an area away from the top plate.
At that point near the top, even a small flat plate, welded to the top of the frame would reinforce it substantially.

 

[Timmy390]

If the hole location is in the right place to fit under the top plate of the frame, couldn’t he just drill a hole and insert a bolt?
Being there at the edge of the frame should keep it from crushing I would think. At least it’s stronger than an area away from the top plate.
At that point near the top, even a small flat plate, welded to the top of the frame would reinforce it substantially.

With those hole locations.....I would weld anything and everything I could.

Tim

 

[nvrstuk]

Without seeing more detailed pics on bolt hole locations for the strg box I would check out EB vendors and see if anyone makes a plate like West Coast Broncos did for years.

Re-inforcing the frame here is important. It is quite common to see cracks in the frame from the stress of the box racking on the frame.

Weld quality is crucial here.

I would like to see detailed pics before suggesting anything here besides saying what Broncobowsher said.

There are a dozen ways to "fix" this correctly. Just gotta see your details.

Just so you know, this is NOT a hard fix. Very straightforward but it is a MUST fix before you drive.

 

[John_parkeriv]

Without seeing more detailed pics on bolt hole locations for the strg box I would check out EB vendors and see if anyone makes a plate like West Coast Broncos did for years.

Re-inforcing the frame here is important. It is quite common to see cracks in the frame from the stress of the box racking on the frame.

Weld quality is crucial here.

I would like to see detailed pics before suggesting anything here besides saying what Broncobowsher said.

There are a dozen ways to "fix" this correctly. Just gotta see your details.

Just so you know, this is NOT a hard fix. Very straightforward but it is a MUST fix before you drive.

If you can tell me exactly what your wanting to see, I'll grab some pictures when I get home.

 

[DirtDonk]

Does BC Broncos still make their plate?
I personally don't like the super-thick stuff, but you can't argue that it's not strong!!!

Paul

 

[John_parkeriv]

Does BC Broncos still make their plate?
I personally don't like the super-thick stuff, but you can't argue that it's not strong!!!

Paul

I saw somebody (I believe BCbroncos) sells one. Looks like just a 1/4 plate with some holes drilled in it. At that point, I'd just try to make one first.

 

[Timmy390]

https://bcbroncos.com/shop/steering...box-frame-reinforcement-kit-for-early-bronco/

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

Well a 1/4" bit of steel is better than the 3/4" stuff I've seen around. Even that pic makes it look a bit thicker, but 1/4 should be easy to work with as well as not cause too much disruption to the sight-lines of the steering shaft.

Definitely if you're conversant in making thingies out of steel, by all means go for it.

Paul

 

[jamesroney]

Almost got my project bronco at a point where I can drive it on the road. Engines in, trans is in, lift is installed, it's all coming together. Take it for a quick rip down my local road, and can barely keep it between the ditches. Fastest I think I've had it is 15 miles an hour, and it was a struggle to keep it on the road at that speed. Alignment toe on the front end is withing 1/16th of an inch, I have an adjustable track bar and drag link, and power steering.

Nothing seems overtly loose that would be a serious cause for concern. I have 2.5" of lift, so I don't have a track bar drop bracket. Somebody who's lifted one of these in the past, what would cause this? Only thing I can possibly think of is my steering box. It's from a 78 f250 doing a 4x4x2 conversion and it's held in with 2 bolts.

10 MPH? Remove the PS belt, and see if the darting persists.
You've got plenty of problems, and that steering box mounting is just horrid. But it's not making it un-drive-able.

 

[John_parkeriv]

10 MPH? Remove the PS belt, and see if the darting persists.
You've got plenty of problems, and that steering box mounting is just horrid. But it's not making it un-drive-able.

Removing the PS belt would also take out my brakes. I'm running hydroboost

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you running a dual-return pump, or a 2-into-1 fitting for the return?
If a 2-into-1, is it by any chance a T-fitting instead of a Y-fitting?

Not sure that would have any bearing on this particular issue, but the T's are a known troublemaker.

Paul

 

[jamesroney]

Removing the PS belt would also take out my brakes. I'm running hydroboost

Why is that interesting? You aren't going to drive it more than about 100 feet. Go find a big vacant parking lot, remove the belt, and see how it STEERS.

Your brakes will function acceptably well for a single stop from 10 mph.

 

[John_parkeriv]

Why is that interesting? You aren't going to drive it more than about 100 feet. Go find a big vacant parking lot, remove the belt, and see how it STEERS.

Your brakes will function acceptably well for a single stop from 10 mph.

I live in the country, closest flat parking lot is about 15 into town . I'll give it a shot when the trucks running again.

 

[John_parkeriv]

Are you running a dual-return pump, or a 2-into-1 fitting for the return?
If a 2-into-1, is it by any chance a T-fitting instead of a Y-fitting?

Not sure that would have any bearing on this particular issue, but the T's are a known troublemaker.

Paul

T fitting, but it is a hydraulic specific T. I'll try to run down a few of the other problems and try a Y if nothing else seems to work.

 

[Broncobowsher]

10 MPH? Remove the PS belt, and see if the darting persists.
You've got plenty of problems, and that steering box mounting is just horrid. But it's not making it un-drive-able.

-4° of caster and a steering box not firmly attached to the frame. That's a pretty good recipe for something that is undrivable even at low speeds. The description of the problem doesn't really match any power steering issues.

Lets start with the really obvious (and really bad) before looking at other potential issues.