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c-4 leak Attn: Bronco Howie

ddm156

Full Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Messages
203
still dealing with a leaky c-4, mostly from the linkage shaft seal. I suppose I need to remove the pan and valve body. I've been inside the pan before, but not much beyond. I am looking for some direction(s). Anybody know of any good tech articles on the procedure or care to take the time to make note of the steps/ do's and don'ts of this replacement?

Also, when sealing up the pan, think I should use this stuff, of is that a bit overkill?http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm
 

mr.n

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2004
Messages
710
Is it leaking from the small o-ring or right at the case?

If the O-ring
- I tried everything. Never found the O-ring with 4 ears... relpaced it with the early style, kinda a squared off o-ring.
What solved it was to double up on the o-rings.

If the case side.
I'd guess a new seal is in order. I've never replaced one in the vehicle, make sure to report back how it went!
Also get that large hole in the nut tight! I didn't on mine, and when it backs off you'll get stuck in 1st gear.

To fix the leak in your pan. I like using gaskets, because you can reuse them, makes for a easier trail repair.
C4 Pan leaking: Solution
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,861
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
The Permatex will definitely seal up the pan, but it will be difficult clean up for the next time you have the pan off. I just use Gasgacinch and a noncork gasket. It's very easy to disassemble and replace the shaft seal. Reassembly is just a little more involved. When you reinstall the valve body, you need to make sure that the shift linkage lines up with the spool on the valve body. Note it's position before you remove it. It's not hard, just look at the position its in before you remove the valve body. The only other thing is to note the position of the valve and spring under the tab of the filter. Just make sure that you get the valve back in with the big end first then the spring. Then put the pan back on and thats about it. Good luck.
 

av bronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Messages
1,742
Loc.
Palmdale CA
the olny bad thing is your gonna get tranny oil all over ya,the damm things never stop dripping oil when you pull the pan off, beside that it's a peace o cake, whatever you use for gasket sealant stay away from silacone sealer,valvebodys and that stuff dont mix.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,344
I replaced the seal in the bronco. After pulling the pan you need to pull the valve body. The larger bolts around the perimeter of the valve body attach it to the case. The smaller bolts hold the valve body halfs together. Prepare for some additional fluid drainage once the valve body is loose. Make note of how the internal linkage meets the shift and kickdown valves. You'll need to realign those when you put it back together. After the valve body is out you'll see the nut that holds the shift shaft in. The kickdown shaft comes out from the inside. When you put the valve body back in make sure to line up the valves and linkage and do not overtighten the bolts.
 
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