C Bushing install

[DJs74]

Just out of curiosity, is there a formal procedure on the installation process of C Bushings with regard to the tightening / torquing pattern?

When I did this last year, I ran into a couple of things...

* with new bushings, the bolts were a little short because the bushings were new and unforgiving
* my approach to overcome this (right or wrong I don't know??) was: I hooked a tie down strap, the ratcheting type, to the hub and frame which enabled me to pull the Dana 44 toward the rear and compressed the rear bushing enough to get the front cap and bolts on and started. I had to put the radius arm back in the bracket to make this work and once I got all the bolts started, I removed the radius arm again so it was free (so I could compare it to the opposite side later)
* My 1st - 2nd - 3rd - 4th attempts were failures to get both radius arms equal height -which is kind of where my question comes from

I used a crisscross pattern (from the front looking back), top left / bottom right / bottom left / top right until the cap bottomed out. When that didn't work (to achieve equal height of radius arm at large threaded end), I loosened all bolts to the point where only a couple threads were attached and tried again - still using crisscross and failed again. Then I tried crisscross until I reached maybe a 1/4" gap to finish - drew both bottom up tight, then both top, still no good.

I think my final attempt was crisscross to 1/4" to go, then drew both top bolts, then both bottom

I might be doing C bushings again in the future on another Bronco and just thought I'd ask some advice of what's worked for others.

Also, during the adjustment phase, is there any possibility that you can ruin your bushings by drawing them up wrong on the first few attempts and that they may take a bad set and that could be why they are so hard to get final adjustment on? My whole adjustment period was over the course of several days but I never drove it anywhere but they were drawn up incorrectly for a little while at first. I don't think rubber bushings would take a bad set unless heat was applied but I'm not familiar with how the urethane reacts?

Just wondering if I did something wrong initially on mine and there is a better procedure from the start or if this happens to be one of those "results vary" and everyone has to try their own approach

thanks,

DJs74

 

[Timmy390]

Were the wedges in the housing clean meaning all rust and scale removed?

I installed new C bushings 2 years ago and on the advice of fellow board members I cleaned all rust and scale from the wedges then painted them. I used soap and water (I used a 50/50 mix) and sprayed everything down inside and out before I started assembly and kept it wet (really wet) throught the cap tightining process.

Everything lined up the first time with no issues.

Tim

 

[DJs74]

I did clean up all the surfaces of the wedges, but no soap and water, no lubricants of any kind - all dry assembled

the soap & water makes good sense to me.


thanks for the tip

DJs74

 

[surfer-b]

I clean all the junk out of them and use Ivory dish soap, also go get a couple of bolts that are longer then the OEM's this way you can get them started without the use of the straps and the axle out from under the Bronco if you need to.

Also, during the adjustment phase, is there any possibility that you can ruin your bushings by drawing them up wrong on the first few attempts and that they may take a bad set and that could be why they are so hard to get final adjustment on?

I would say its possible. I had a set that I could never get the way I wanted so I replaced them with another, the new ones work just fine, both were Energy Susp Brand. I think sometimes they just come deformed out of the mold and no matter what is done they will not line up correct.

 

[DJs74]

thanks surfer-b

 

[methcat]

I did clean up all the surfaces of the wedges, but no soap and water, no lubricants of any kind - all dry assembled

the soap & water makes good sense to me.


thanks for the tip

DJs74

don't they usually give you grease to use on these? mine were slathered with krytox.

 

[SeanT4x4]

I just did mine a few weeks ago and ordered a new radius arm hardware kit from WH because my bolts and lock washers were kind of messed up. The nice part about that kit is that it comes with two extra long bolts to get the C-cap started. I also put a nice layer of that thick sticky lube that comes with the bushings down. Everything went well the first time.

 

[willie gee]

Been battling these for awhile now, the bushings are all aligned correctly, and properly lubricated. No matter what I did as far as torquing the bolts down the drivers side would lift .5 to .75 an inch. I like things just so, so this isn't going to work.

Turns out the notches on the axle had all kinds of rust and build up on them. A missing step is making sure that where you put the bushings, make sure that is clean and has no build up. Cleaning mine thoroughly and will continue to put the suspension back on.

Hoping for perfection.

 

[Glass Pony]

I did clean up all the surfaces of the wedges, but no soap and water, no lubricants of any kind - all dry assembled

the soap & water makes good sense to me.


thanks for the tip

DJs74

I use a thin coat of Dow Corning 111 on all mating surfaces. Seems to work.

Been battling these for awhile now, the bushings are all aligned correctly, and properly lubricated. No matter what I did as far as torquing the bolts down the drivers side would lift .5 to .75 an inch. I like things just so, so this isn't going to work.

Turns out the notches on the axle had all kinds of rust and build up on them. A missing step is making sure that where you put the bushings, make sure that is clean and has no build up. Cleaning mine thoroughly and will continue to put the suspension back on.

Hoping for perfection.

I ended up .5" high on the driver's side also, measuring at the corner of the bumper. I like to think of it as a little "preload" when my 260 lb butt is in the drivers seat.