C-Bushing replacement

[omureebe]

I'm sure a quick question for the group.... And a little background....

I went to T-Rex arms and 4* bushings awhile back and post-alignment.... still not enough caster. So I'm switching from the 4* to the 7*, like right now - hey I have the bushings and frankly I'm not looking to get into the cut-and-turn discussion (yet!), which I'll admit I know is the right answer and one I may get into after this....

So.... thinking of Bronco lean.... do I need to now remove the T-Rex arms from the frame mount and basically got brought he whole proceedure or can I simply just remove the c-caps (after the drag link, steering, etc) and swap out the bushings? My gut tells me to do everything all over, which not the end of the world, but not looking forward to all of it if unnecessary.

Thanks!
Omar

 

[DirtDonk]

You can certainly change just the bushings without removing the arms, and many of us have done that over the years. However, whether you should do it all the way or not depends entirely on your level of luck and how the planets are aligning these days.

I’ve done it several times without removing the arms and had no problem. And even though I did tighten them just a little bit at a time in a crisscross sequence, I think not having a lean had more to do with luck than anything else.
Whenever I’ve had the arms out I have always gone through the whole “equal height“ procedure with the ends of the arms. You know, just in case.
After all… these are Broncos!

 

[omureebe]

You can certainly change just the bushings without removing the arms, and many of us have done that over the years. However, whether you should do it all the way or not depends entirely on your level of luck and how the planets are aligning these days.

I’ve done it several times without removing the arms and had no problem. And even though I did tighten them just a little bit at a time in a crisscross sequence, I think not having a lean had more to do with luck than anything else.
Whenever I’ve had the arms out I have always gone through the whole “equal height“ procedure with the ends of the arms. You know, just in case.
After all… these are Broncos!

Yes but your avatar shows you as a Jedi so………. Your luck may be better than mine! I’ll give the roll of the dice a chance as I finish this up along with new steering linkage and a few other goodies. Nothing like “scope creep” to make it extra fun!

Thanks
Omar


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[DirtDonk]

One thing I would say in that case, would be to lube the new bushings well.
Clean any extra rust scale, dirt, or old bushing material from the pads first, then use either some kind of goopy silicone snot lube or just plain old liquid dish soap.
Improves your chances of meeting lady luck!

 

[jamesroney]

Hi Paul,
Is there an off the shelf universally accepted silicone goop that is known to be compatible with the urethane? I've always tried to conserve the stuff that comes with the Energy Suspension kits, but those little tubes are tiny. I've seen plenty of disintegrated urethane bushings, and I know that petroleum based grease is not OK. But I've never heard anyone say to use "this."

 

[DirtDonk]

yep, that’s the stuff. But at least Energy used to sell the stuff in a small tub about the size of a small grease tin. I think Prothane does as well, and possibly others but I haven’t looked it up lately.

The modern brake grease seems to be similarly configured, but I don’t know if it’s got more petroleum products in it to raise its temperature ratings or not.
I have actually been using anti-seize for decades now because in the old days it was hard to find that stuff that came in the little tiny tubes with the bushings. And as you probably remember, a long time ago it didn’t even come with the bushings.

So far none of the bushings that I used anti-seize on seem to have deteriorated. That includes C bushings and track bar bushings and spring bushings.

 

[Glass Pony]

Hi Paul,
Is there an off the shelf universally accepted silicone goop that is known to be compatible with the urethane? I've always tried to conserve the stuff that comes with the Energy Suspension kits, but those little tubes are tiny. I've seen plenty of disintegrated urethane bushings, and I know that petroleum based grease is not OK. But I've never heard anyone say to use "this."

I like using Dow Corning #111. It's like a silicone grease.

 

[levib1]

I have the 111. Getting ready for c-bushing install. Any guidance for grease application. All over? Both sides? A little, a lot? Wipe excess, etc.

 

[Jdgephar]

Just use 3 jack stands under the axle when you assemble it again. Keep the axle level with two stands, and use the 3rd stand under the pinion to hold the angle correct.

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[omureebe]

So reading directions, it says to do each side independently. Once I removed the track bar and tie rod, I started on the driver side:
- Lower front end onto jack stands (so at full length on coils)
- Remove shock,
- Remove spring,
- Remove cap.

Had to really work at it, but got the new 7* bushing in and just seems to not be wanting to come close without a serious fight. Pics attached, but it's hard to imagine I can get this gap closed. Been awhile since I did the T-Rex arms and bushings so wondering if something looks *off* to anyone.

Thanks
Omar

 

[omureebe]

Making progress, snugging down in a criss cross pattern (or so I think) but wonder if the 4* bushing on the passenger side is holding up (ie twisting) the driver side. Noticing that I should back out one of the bottom bolts to more square up the bolt that must be slightly bound... Thoughts?

I did not remove the strut from frame mounts, and the passenger side is all attached as per directions.

 

[Glass Pony]

I have the 111. Getting ready for c-bushing install. Any guidance for grease application. All over? Both sides? A little, a lot? Wipe excess, etc.

Anywhere where the radius arm and cap contact the "C" bushing. Any excess will squeeze out after assembly.

 

[jamesroney]

Making progress, snugging down in a criss cross pattern (or so I think) but wonder if the 4* bushing on the passenger side is holding up (ie twisting) the driver side. Noticing that I should back out one of the bottom bolts to more square up the bolt that must be slightly bound... Thoughts?

I did not remove the strut from frame mounts, and the passenger side is all attached as per directions.

You are doing it wrong.

The notion of changing one side at a time ONLY works if your c-bushings are all the same caster. So right now, your 4 degree bushing is fighting with your 7 degree bushing, and you are CREATING Bronco Lean.

Stop working on just one side. Go ahead and replace the bushings on the other side. Then snug up all 16 bolts evenly.

I hope that you added markings on your c-bushings. I have found that adding an external mark really helps when installing c-bushings. Almost every time, I end up bouncing one on the ground, usually while manhandling the axle, and trying to install the cap. I'll post a pic in a minute.

 

[Glass Pony]

I hope that you added markings on your c-bushings. I have found that adding an external mark really helps when installing c-bushings. Almost every time, I end up bouncing one on the ground, usually while manhandling the axle, and trying to install the cap. I'll post a pic in a minute.

I mark them before disassembly also. Just to verify they were installed correctly in case of some squirrely alignment numbers.