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Calling Viperwolf and the rest of you Dana 20 guru's

mnido

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2007
Messages
993
Ok, first photo is to ensure I have the correct order and or positioning of parts for the Idler shaft. Second picture shows a thrust washer sitting in position.Third photo is to ensure the direction you install the Idler shaft. If I am good so far then my question is: Do I cut my dowel to the length of the Idler gear and three bearing spacers, apply Vaseline to thrust washers and hang them in place, lower the assembly into place, use a longer dowel and install it in place of the shorter dowel, then lastly press the Idler shaft through the case and secure it ? It is a press fit or do you guys use a brass hammer on it ? Thanks
 

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Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,346
Looks good. Cut the tube to the idler gear length. Set the idler gear on end then load up the spacers and rollers with grease. When full slip the tube in to keep the rollers in place. Lower it into the case with a shoe string or something similar. Make sure the thrust washers stay in place. Tap the shaft into place. Make sure the cutout is facing the bolt hole.

I like to put this in after the rails and front shaft are installed. It makes it easier to get to the set screws.
 
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mnido

mnido

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2007
Messages
993
Looks good. Cut the tube to the idler gear length. Set the idler gear on end then load up the spacers and rollers with grease. When full slip the tube in to keep the rollers in place. Lower it into the case with a shoe string or something similar. Make sure the thrust washers stay in place. Tap the shaft into place. Make sure the cutout is facing the bolt hole.

I like to put this in after the rails and front shaft are installed. It makes it easier to get to the set screws.

Excellent. Yes good catch with the position of the shaft and the bolt hole, I knew that but very observant on your part. And yes I will install the rails and the front shaft first. And you do mean the front output shaft, right. I am sorry to ask all these questions, but I don't want to make a mistake. You have been very helpful. Thanks
 

spap

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
2,606
Great pictures, do you guys happen to know if you can replace that o ring on the idler shaft without removing it. Can you slide it back enough to slide a new o ring on? Sorry didn't mean to tag on
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,346
Great pictures, do you guys happen to know if you can replace that o ring on the idler shaft without removing it. Can you slide it back enough to slide a new o ring on? Sorry didn't mean to tag on

Should be able to.
 

spap

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
2,606
Thanks , hopefully nothing will drop in the case. It s leaking just enough to bug me.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Thanks , hopefully nothing will drop in the case. It s leaking just enough to bug me.
I've had little success getting that o-ring to seal. I assume it gets cut when tapping it into place. To seal that idler shaft, I insert it until the front end just starts to enter the bore in the case. For you, you would tap the shaft to the rear about 3/8". I clean the front hole and the rear of the shaft, including the o-ring with brake-clean or equivalent. Then I put a little RTV gasket maker inside the front bore, and on the o-ring, and drive the idler shaft into position. I haven't had a leak that way.
 
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mnido

mnido

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2007
Messages
993
Did you get a rebuild kit with a new idler shaft or are you reusing your old one?

I went ahead and got a new idler and needle bearings and the gasket kit without roller bearings. My internals are actually in excellent shape. Someone has rebuilt it along the way. Has very little use.
 
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