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Camber way off

67bondobronc

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2002
Messages
867
Well, I got my EB running good enough to take it out on some test runs and of course I ran into another problem. DEATH WOBBLE and shaking like crazy. I did the alignment check that is on BC's tech page and that I have it close but when looking at the front of my EB I can see that the knuckles are slanted in a lot at the top (am I correct in saying this is the camber that is off??). I also probably need to replace my track bar bushings but I think the main problem is the knuckles being slanted in at the top. It is so far off that it is noticeable. I have a D30 with the Ch*vy disk brake conversion with 33's and a stock lift.

I searched here and found out that I probably need shims to correct this problem and I should take it to an alignment shop to get this done. Most of the post I have found are about the knuckles pointed in towards the bottom and not the top.
Now this is a problem because I do not trust the EB (due to the shaking) to drive it the 15 miles needed to get to a good alignment shop and I have an explorer so I can't rent a trailer from U-haul. Any ideas on what I need to do to get this corrected enough to get it where it is safer to drive to an alignment shop?

thanks for the help
 

chuck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Messages
6,474
Loc.
Ingram, Texas
Sounds like the camber needs fixing but most likely the track bar bushings will fix the death wobble. You can change the camber yourself.
 
OP
OP
6

67bondobronc

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2002
Messages
867
Is the way you are talking about adjusting the camber is by getting the shims that go between the knuckle and spindle? My manual says that the D30 camber can not be adjusted............but can it??????????
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
You can adjust the camber two ways.
1. Install tapered shims between the spindle and knuckle.
2. Have the alignment shop bend the axle tube.
I perfer the axle bending method because it requires no parts to realign if disassembled later and that no disassembly is required for this adjustment. By the way, bending the tube was the only method available when these cars were first made. Worked then and works now!
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,059
I had bad camber on my D30. The kingpin was wasted. Jack the truck up and watch the tire, does the camber fall straight or opposite when you lift it up? IF so the kingpins are shot.

That would also fall under the "worn suspension components" catagory that causes death wobble. Generally the death wobble can be fixed with track bar bushings 90% of the time if no other problems exist.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Agreed.
Always make sure that everything is in good shape prior to the alignment.
No sense throwing away hard earned money! :(
 

rednck21

Newbie
Joined
Feb 27, 2002
Messages
3,915
2. Have the alignment shop bend the axle tube.
I perfer the axle bending method because it requires no parts to realign if disassembled later and that no disassembly is required for this adjustment. By the way, bending the tube was the only method available when these cars were first made. Worked then and works now!



surely you cant be serious :eek: never heard of that one before. can you tell me more about this technique?
 

chuck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Messages
6,474
Loc.
Ingram, Texas
Bending the axle is the best way. I did not mention it because I don't think anyone still does it but check around, some of the old alignment shops might.
Also as stated above check to be sure everything is in good shape. Any good alignment shop should check everything for wear before trying to align it. If it cost much to repair the D-30 you might start looking for a D-44
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
axle bending

This procedure is done with the vehicle on the alignment rack. Suppose the axle has a negative camber (out at top). The axle tube is clamped in place onto the rack with a chain clamp between the differential housing and the king pin yoke. A hydraulic jack is applied under the end of the axle at the ball joint or king pin yoke. The tube is forced up bending the tube. The housing won't be affected because the tube is being supported by the chain clamp. This tube straightening wont affect the axle itself because there is enough slop in the axle splines to accomodate this.
I know this sounds really brutal but these things were built so cavemen could repair them in the rocks on a hillside!%)
Many shops won't be familiar with this procedure. You need to find a true truck / 4WD shop not a car AWD shop.
I went from my fron tires lasting 5000 miles to them looking as even as the rear ones after 35000 miles.;D
 

rednck21

Newbie
Joined
Feb 27, 2002
Messages
3,915
This procedure is done with the vehicle on the alignment rack. Suppose the axle has a negative camber (out at top). The axle tube is clamped in place onto the rack with a chain clamp between the differential housing and the king pin yoke. A hydraulic jack is applied under the end of the axle at the ball joint or king pin yoke. The tube is forced up bending the tube. The housing won't be affected because the tube is being supported by the chain clamp. This tube straightening wont affect the axle itself because there is enough slop in the axle splines to accomodate this.
I know this sounds really brutal but these things were built so cavemen could repair them in the rocks on a hillside!%)
Many shops won't be familiar with this procedure. You need to find a true truck / 4WD shop not a car AWD shop.
I went from my fron tires lasting 5000 miles to them looking as even as the rear ones after 35000 miles.;D


thanks for explaining that for me, but thats rediculous. i would NEVER, EVER do that to my rig.;)
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,059
This procedure is done with the vehicle on the alignment rack. Suppose the axle has a negative camber (out at top). The axle tube is clamped in place onto the rack with a chain clamp between the differential housing and the king pin yoke. A hydraulic jack is applied under the end of the axle at the ball joint or king pin yoke. The tube is forced up bending the tube. The housing won't be affected because the tube is being supported by the chain clamp. This tube straightening wont affect the axle itself because there is enough slop in the axle splines to accomodate this.
I know this sounds really brutal but these things were built so cavemen could repair them in the rocks on a hillside!%)
Many shops won't be familiar with this procedure. You need to find a true truck / 4WD shop not a car AWD shop.
I went from my fron tires lasting 5000 miles to them looking as even as the rear ones after 35000 miles.;D


I have heard, but not confirmed, that a good place to go is a big rid diesel repair shop. Apparently that is how they do big rigs and those drivers like them to drive straight.
 

slider58

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Messages
35
Loc.
OKC, OK
Back in the day of straight front axle and twin I beam Ford pickups, they as well as all the 4x4s were aligned by bending. There wasn't much other choice and that is how Ford said to do it. I had a '73 F100 4x4 coyote wagon that the front end had been bent up and down so many times it is a wonder it didn't break off and it held up longer than the rest of the thing did. Any alignment shop that works on trucks big enough to have a straight front axle should be able to handle it.
 

chuck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Messages
6,474
Loc.
Ingram, Texas
thanks for explaining that for me, but thats rediculous. i would NEVER, EVER do that to my rig.;)
It was the excepted way and I think still the best. They also did radius arms that way to correct the caster. You say you would never do that to yours but it has obviusly already been done the other way or it wouldn't need fixing now. If you use the shims you will correct the camber butthe axle is still running in a bent tube which will cause the bearings to wear out sooner although that might not be a big deal depending on how much you use the front drive.
 
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