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Clutch rod - Heim ends - Post body lift

dalba4

Full Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
241
Loc.
Socal
Most of you cats probably know this. This is for those who don't, which was all of us once.

Clutch rod needs to be lengthened post body lift. Numerous options exist. This is the two heims plus all thread option. No welding req'd. One cut to all thread. Off the shelf standard parts.

From Mcmasters:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6072k33/=dgants

ItemDetailScreenBallJointLinkageHeavyDutyFemale.gif


http://www.mcmaster.com/#98805a031/=dganqh

93225right.gif


End result:

CIMG3775.jpg


CIMG3776.jpg


Considerations:

  • Use high thread per inch for better adjustment of length - 3/8-24 shown.
  • Heim end with captive stud has two benefits - 1. No bolt to muck with 2. Has increased stand off from the linkages. I should have gotten two heim ends with captive studs.
  • Alternately two heim ends without studs can be used but you'll want to space out the clutch and Z bar linkage connection, so this is more elegant. IE not using 3 washers.
  • 3/8 is the orig clutch rod diameter so bushings can be re-used. 7/16 is the diameter you'd need if ditching bushings was desired.
  • If you used mild steel all thread you could save couple more bucks.
 

nelson_bros

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
107
Loc.
los anchorage
Great post!! I never thought about choosing the captive stud type, but that is an excellent idea too.

I was able to make one for my '72 F100 for the same purpose after digging around at the salvage yard where I bought all the input linkage (from the controls to the servos/valves) from a John Deere backhoe attachment that was trashed. They were essentially the same thing that you built, and I was able to buy 4 sets for $10. SCORE!!! ;D
 
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