BC ZF Clutch Rod Please Help

[Timmy390]

I'm having a VERY hard time getting through to BC. Not sure what the issue is.......I need some help on this. I'm not seeing the forest for all the damn trees I guess. Frustration has set in and that causes total blindness.

I've got BC's ZF Master Cylinder mounted in the Speed-O hole and I can't figure out the clutch rod. I've read to use the existing hole in the clutch pedal. Nope, not happening as it's WAY too high. Drilling a new hole isn't the issue....The rod lines up with the pedal so no issue there.

Clutch pedal travel is my issue. The MC bottoms out WAY before the pedal hits any kind of a stop. Before the switch I had both clutch and brake pedals level. I've adjusted my brake pedal down to what I keep finding is right. I'm reading I was a tad bit high before the swap. Even with lowering the brake and positioning the clutch at the same height, the clutch has too much travel.

What's everyone doing to resolve this? Adding a stopper to the pedal or just letting the MC bottom out as the stop? I suspect bottoming out would cause damage to the MC? I've tried every combination of rod length I can and frustration has set in. And why is the bolt they sent with the kit so DAMN long? Is it supposed to just be loose as a goose? I would need to lower the brake and clutch over 1 inch more to get CLOSE to not bottoming out the MC.

Please help,,,,,at this point pictures would really help because I'm starting to drink...more than I normally do......This is the last step to being on the road....so close but yet SO FAR AWAY

Tim

 

[bronkenn]

Here is how I done mine. I did move the clutch MC up a bit so the pedal pressure was not too hard. It can be depressed with one hand. I made a clutch rod by cutting the one in half and sizing it to fit and added an adjustable coupler. The clutch works very smoothly. I threaded the clutch pedal arm to relocate the rod. The travel is right and doesn't bottom out in the MC.

 

[Timmy390]

Thanks for the pics......It appears from the black mark you have about the same travel as I do.

What stops your clutch pedal? Does it hit the floor? Maybe my rig is missing a stopper/limiter?

Tim

 

[Big Slim]

if you are bottoming out the master, my best guess is it should be mounted higher on the pedal. that would give you a better mechanical advantage for reduced clutch force. i did make a new hole a bit higher on the pedal arm. mine does not have a mechanical stop to keep the master from bottoming out other than the floor. just at the top to keep the pedals even. my calculations were showing you would need the whole MC travel so you could add a stop if you want. i was going to to a in depth write up on master cylinders but was waiting until i get mine drive-able and tested.
here was a good link. clutch thread

 

[Timmy390]

if you are bottoming out the master, my best guess is it should be mounted higher on the pedal. that would give you a better mechanical advantage for reduced clutch force. i did make a new hole a bit higher on the pedal arm. mine does not have a mechanical stop to keep the master from bottoming out other than the floor. just at the top to keep the pedals even. my calculations were showing you would need the whole MC travel so you could add a stop if you want. i was going to to a in depth write up on master cylinders but was waiting until i get mine drive-able and tested.
here was a good link. clutch thread

Yup, I read that thread before posting Read several. Different bore size MC's causing hard or on/off pedal etc. Leverage points.....but it seemed most were using the Speed-O hole. Seemed the simplest so I jumped in the pool. Some grinding and s large "step" bit and done. But it's put me in a box....

So it seems the Speed-O cable hole is NOT the preferred hole to use? I've read three different ways to do this....drill hole up high, use speed-o hole and hole over to the P side about 1 inch from Speed-O hole and slightly higher. If the speed-o hole is used the pedal HAS to be limited in it's travel. I can see no other way to keep the MC from bottoming out. Maybe the pedals were different in different years meaning the shape?

I think at this point because I've committed to using the Speed-O hole as I have a 1 3/8 hole there now. I'll add a stopper to the pedal and IF the clutch is hard to use/stiff (can't be worse than my Shelby can it?) I'll adjust the approach as needed. Thinking of just welding additional metal to the pedal so it contacts the floor sooner.......I'll also adjust the brake pedal just a bit lower to 6.5 inches and that will lesson the clutch pedal travel more.....

My pedals were high......been that way for 25 years. I didn't know any better....

Tim

 

[Big Slim]

yea. the speedo hole seems a bit far down and to the left. but if the rod doesnt bind up going into the MC it could still work. i dont have a booster yet. ill probably need to adjust something when that finally happens.

 

[Timmy390]

yea. the speedo hole seems a bit far down and to the left. but if the rod doesnt bind up going into the MC it could still work. i dont have a booster yet. ill probably need to adjust something when that finally happens.

I can position the rod and cycle things with the rod held on the pedal with vise grips and nothing seems to bind. Once I get it all mounted up.....that will be the real test.

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

I should have pulled the fresh air box to start with. Much more room to work now that it's gone. Something tells me the "leaf catcher" is NOT going back in.

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

I'm guessing everyone took the pedal out to drill the hole?

Open for suggestions

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

Sourced a right angle drill

Tim

 

[bronkenn]

Thanks for the pics......It appears from the black mark you have about the same travel as I do.

What stops your clutch pedal? Does it hit the floor? Maybe my rig is missing a stopper/limiter?

Tim

I get full travel with this setup and the rod doesn't bottom out. The clutch pedal bottoms out on the floor.

 

[Timmy390]

I get full travel with this setup and the rod doesn't bottom out. The clutch pedal bottoms out on the floor.

May I ask your pedal heights off the floor?

Mine are at 6.5 inches measured from the bottom of the pedal straight down to the floor. That puts them about an inch above the gas pedal. At 6.5 inches and the MC rod mounted in the middle of the pedal, the MC bottoms out with the pedal about an inch off the floor.....

Tim

 

[bronkenn]

It is stored under a cover right now but the clutch pedal and brake pedal are the same height off the floor. Pretty much the stock height.

 

[Timmy390]

What a chore drilling that hole with the pedals in place. I got it done but it took time. Can't get any leverage on the drill but she's done.

Linkage installed and operats smooth as butter. Still don't understand the huge bolt that comes with the kit. Trup to local diy will resolve that issue.

Thanks for all the help and advice. On to the next item.

Please overlook the wiring rats nest. You would be shocked if you knew how much I've cleaned it up over the years

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

Since you're using the speedo cable for this conversion, is everyone supposed to be converting to a gps based speedo unit? Is that just an assumed part of the whole clutch master install?

Paul

 

[Timmy390]

Since you're using the speedo cable for this conversion, is everyone supposed to be converting to a gps based speedo unit? Is that just an assumed part of the whole clutch master install?

Paul

I plan to drill a new hole for the speed-o cable. Haven't done so yet but very soon.......Just need to place it so it's as straight as possible shot to the gauge cluster.

The original cable is too short due to the length of the M5R2. I upgraded the cable to the length I needed when doing the EFI conversion adding VSS

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

DIY stopper installed. It's an old school door stopper modified of course. Works great. Hits just before the MC bottoms out and can be adjusted as needed

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

Got the clutch bleed yesterday. She's stiffer then the original but operates smoothly. Part of the stiffness might be the fact I was sitting on the floor while pushing. I haven't put the seat back in yet. I have to disconnect the line to the slave because I forgot to slip on the rubber protector before bleeding. No drive shafts yet......Shop is short handed.

Tim

 

[Slednut10]

Since you're using the speedo cable for this conversion, is everyone supposed to be converting to a gps based speedo unit? Is that just an assumed part of the whole clutch master install?

Paul

I plan to drill a new hole for the speed-o cable. Haven't done so yet but very soon.......Just need to place it so it's as straight as possible shot to the gauge cluster.

The original cable is too short due to the length of the M5R2. I upgraded the cable to the length I needed when doing the EFI conversion adding VSS

Tim

That’s what I did. With the ”leaf catcher” out, a straight shot to the speedometer cluster is easy. Way easier to access it for removal too. Glad to see you making progress on this swap!

 

[Timmy390]

That’s what I did. With the ”leaf catcher” out, a straight shot to the speedometer cluster is easy. Way easier to access it for removal too. Glad to see you making progress on this swap!

Thanks.....It's all complete but for a few minor things and those "god dang driveshafts"

Tim