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Cooling problems continue

jw0747

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 22, 2006
Messages
2,434
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
Be certain when changing or installing a temp gauge that the gauge and the sending unit match. Don't install a new gauge and hook it to the old, already installed sending unit. Ask me how I know...

My engine never overheats thanks to a 7 blade, solid fan which is positioned correctly in the shroud with a bone stock 1973 Bronco radiator.
 

Brent13

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2015
Messages
673
Loc.
Colorado Springs
I did a drain and flush, changed thermostat to a 190, and I run much cooler now. My problems came when stuck at a long drive-thru line. Think the stuff I used was from Peak, maybe Prestone. Seemed to have fixed my issues.
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
The 190° T-Stat has often been credited with bringing cooling issues to resolution. Makes temps more steady too.
 

Steve83

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Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
9,025
Loc.
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
...the internal "ambient" pressure. It's the water flow pressure that really helps internally.
Pressure has the same effect, regardless what caused the pressure. Pressure due to flow is no different from pressure due to thermal expansion of a gas, or pressure due to depth of liquid, or pressure due to mechanical compression. Pressure is pressure.
...keeps the coolant against every little tiny corner and angle of the water jacket.
Water (or coolant) at atmospheric pressure will flow into the exact shape of its container, just like water 13psi above atmospheric, or 15psi above. It's the nature of a liquid. Increasing the pressure doesn't change that.
Reducing, or hopefully eliminating any hot spots that might create either a micro steam pocket...
There's no such thing as a micro steam pocket. Steam occupies roughly 300x as much volume as the water that created it. And if there's steam, that's called "boiling", which I addressed in my statement.

Also, there are no "hot spots" on the water jacket side of the cast Iron. All the heat comes from the burning fuel in the combustion chamber (which is mostly in the head). It gets exposed to the cylinder walls as the piston moves down, but the temperature of the combustion products drops rapidly as the piston moves. In any case; hot spots can exist momentarily on the combustion chamber side of the cast Iron where the fuel is burning. But by the time that heat conducts through the cast Iron walls to the water jacket side, it has spread out and evened out. So the smallest "hot spot" (meaning more than 5° difference) you could find (if you could get inside the water jacket & measure separate points) would be the entire combustion chamber in the head. The passages in the block are always much cooler, but they're also much larger.
...it doesn't even get near the temperature to boil off the coolant.
Of course it gets near that temperature. If it didn't, there would be no need for antifreeze (which is really antiboil) or a pressure cap.
I disagree that pressure does not effect temperature.
So do you think that coolant at 13psi & 220°F will become hotter at 14psi, or colder (withOUT changing the heat going into it)? Remember that this spur of the discussion came from Craig's desire to make his engine run cooler by swapping the t'stat to one that flows LESS.
 

bronconut73

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Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
Pressure has the same effect, regardless what caused the pressure. Pressure due to flow is no different from pressure due to thermal expansion of a gas, or pressure due to depth of liquid, or pressure due to mechanical compression. Pressure is pressure.Water (or coolant) at atmospheric pressure will flow into the exact shape of its container, just like water 13psi above atmospheric, or 15psi above. It's the nature of a liquid. Increasing the pressure doesn't change that.There's no such thing as a micro steam pocket. Steam occupies roughly 300x as much volume as the water that created it. And if there's steam, that's called "boiling", which I addressed in my statement.

Also, there are no "hot spots" on the water jacket side of the cast Iron. All the heat comes from the burning fuel in the combustion chamber (which is mostly in the head). It gets exposed to the cylinder walls as the piston moves down, but the temperature of the combustion products drops rapidly as the piston moves. In any case; hot spots can exist momentarily on the combustion chamber side of the cast Iron where the fuel is burning. But by the time that heat conducts through the cast Iron walls to the water jacket side, it has spread out and evened out. So the smallest "hot spot" (meaning more than 5° difference) you could find (if you could get inside the water jacket & measure separate points) would be the entire combustion chamber in the head. The passages in the block are always much cooler, but they're also much larger.Of course it gets near that temperature. If it didn't, there would be no need for antifreeze (which is really antiboil) or a pressure cap.So do you think that coolant at 13psi & 220°F will become hotter at 14psi, or colder (withOUT changing the heat going into it)? Remember that this spur of the discussion came from Craig's desire to make his engine run cooler by swapping the t'stat to one that flows LESS.

You're amazing too Steve....just kind of aggressive, lol...
We are lucky to have you here at CB as well.
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,870
nickeboy, Fan clutch or hard mounted fan?

As a cheap and easy first step, swap in the 190-195 tstat and give that a try.
 

72Sport

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 8, 2002
Messages
2,954
I did a lot of testing with various shields etc when I installed ac in my Bronco. That was 2002. I had access to hand held thermometers and thermocouples at work. IR was kind of new in those days. The first thing I did was pop one of the plugs holding the insulation on the inside of the firewall. I ran a thermocouple through the hole mounted the measuring end in front of the radiator about an inch from the fins. I went for a ride. Stopped at a signal and noticed the hand held thermometer reading 104 in front of the radiator. and rising. It was about 95 outside. I sat there for a few minutes and noticed the temperature on the hand held thermometer kept on climbing. As soon as I started to move forward the temperature began to drop. The source of the 104 was from the engine compartment. I found out before long the vacuum created by the fan and the pressure built up under the hood provided a good source of hot air to make the temperature climb when sitting still.

I spend about a month making up shields and seals over the radiator. Bronco Driver #12 has an article I wrote to show exactly what I did. I didn't want to do anything to mess up the Bronco that couldn't easily removed. It also made it easy to remove after the engine was hot and running so I could see if it really worked. I was amazed to see the temp rise when the piece was removed on top of the radiator and the hood was closed without shutting off the engine. The reverse was also true, I put the piece back on with the engine still running, closed the hood and watched the temperature drop.

The picture with the vacuum booster was 2002 the one with hydroboost was a lot more recent. The thermocouple is shown in the first picture in front of the radiator. I am not sure the pusher fans help the cooling at idle other than to make the ac work better when the Bronco was sitting still. I never tried to see what difference it made other than highway speeds. They didn't seem to make any difference with restricting air flow at highway speeds The Bronco has always run between 185 abd 195 except driving up HWY in Utah doing about 75Mph it got up to about 205F.
 

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DirtDonk

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Pressure has the same effect, regardless what caused the pressure.

Correct, but a limited answer
Both may do the same thing in a static and evenly shaped environment with even temperatures, but not inside an engine where increased flow has it's effect added to the increased flow pressure.

Pressure due to flow is no different from pressure due to thermal expansion of a gas, or pressure due to depth of liquid, or pressure due to mechanical compression.

Wrong again.
Inside a proper cooling system at least, pressure due to flow is perhaps double the pressure from ambient temperature inside the system.
Maybe they are the same when you're talking about numbers on a scale (after all, a psi is a pound per square inch no matter how you spell it), but not the same when talking about what they do together with flow.
Pressure due to flow may be more or less than the pressure gain created by heat, but for this discussion we're talking about quite a bit more flow-related pressure than ambient as dictated by a radiator cap's rating. The pressure might be the same either way on a gauge, but the pressure of flow from the pump is greater on the backside of the thermostat than it is on the radiator side. And just increasing the flow itself, in lieu of pressure increases, has it's own dynamic properties that enhance the efficiency of the thermal transfer going on inside an engine block.

The pressure provided by the cap is to raise the boiling point in the radiator. The pressure produced by the pump helps to keep coolant in a liquid state even longer inside the engine. It also helps to overcome turbulence caused by uneven surfaces and flow. It also helps to, for lack of a better way to describe it in engineering terms, keep the liquid coolant hard up against all the surfaces no matter what localized conditions exist.
No idea what that property would be called. An aspect of surface tension? Doubt it. What would a fluid-dynamicist call it?

Pressure is pressure.

Not wrong. Just not germane to the situation.
Again, flow pressure is critical to an engines cooling. And even more important in some engines than others due to casting differences.
Wasn't there a discussion about this just a few months ago? Where the radiator manufacturer (in this case Ron Davis) was walking our member here through the way to measure flow pressure with a gauge behind the t-stat?
It's still a "psi is psi" kind of thing, but you're missing the point of the pump adding greater pressure than is just achieved by the static heat. There is a pressure drop after the t-stat down to the level of the radiator cap rating or less. But behind the t-stat is a different environment altogether.

Water (or coolant) at atmospheric pressure will flow into the exact shape of its container, just like water 13psi above atmospheric, or 15psi above. It's the nature of a liquid. Increasing the pressure doesn't change that.

Wrong again. Completely.
Well, not completely, as what you say is absolutely true in a book, or a static environment, or an evenly shaped and consistently textured environment. But not inside a convoluted mess of chambers and cavities and dead ends and rough case surfaces and uneven heat with liquid flowing and eddying all around. Like inside an engine block.
Pressure created by flow, or I suppose a combination of pressure AND flow AND heat in the cooling medium, are very helpful in the real world of an engine block that's naturally trying to self destruct from it's own heat.

There's no such thing as a micro steam pocket. Steam occupies roughly 300x as much volume as the water that created it. And if there's steam, that's called "boiling", which I addressed in my statement.

Sorry Steve. But you're completely wrong on this.
What is a degas bottle for, if not to let air bubbles created by those conditions inside the engine from staying in suspension and causing mischief? Whether it's the pump cavitating or steam being generated momentarily, they call them that for a reason, don't they? Maybe it's for a completely different reason, but perhaps not.
I'm not talking about a small bit of steam created in one spot and then critically expanding to fill the area, and self-fulfill it's destiny by turning more of the coolant into steam and eventually making it's way into the radiator. I'm talking about small pockets that, when not allowed to expand, just get carried away into the mix, where they separate and stay at the top of the radiator (or degas bottle) and mostly turn back into liquid when cooled, to continue their duty as liquid.
By "micro steam pocket" I don't mean that the steam produced in a tiny section of the water jacket stays "micro" and just sits there either. Nor does it mean that once started, it blooms fully into an engine filling cloud of steam, but we are talking about a localized hot spot. These are known to exist inside an engine and have been the boogieman of racers and performance street engines for years. Especially on 351W engines with thin-wall castings and casting shift creating the conditions ripe for steam pockets. Once overbored, the conditions can easily reach a critical stage.
Steam/coolant crossover tubes have been installed on Windsors by those experiencing hot rear cylinders almost since day one. GM even designed in steam tubes to their factory "LS" engines. I don't know if it's all of them, but most of them that I've seen have steam at least one, if not multiple steam tubes fitted to key points on the block and passing under the intake in the valley and up to the front of the engine. This is right from the factory.
They're probably not just there to prevent the whole system from boiling over by carrying steam away from a single point or area. They're likely there to keep coolant flowing evenly and eliminating localized steam producing conditions. Possibly even called "steam tubes" for their act of stopping the steam from being produced.
Maybe "anti-steam" tubing would be more appropriate.
Maybe too, they're all of the above. I literally have no idea from books here, so you could call me on the carpet with a quick google search. But the stuff is called what it is for a reason, and I trust that I'm at least close to the truth.

Maybe their name of "steam tube" is indeed a misnomer. Under normal operating conditions they probably just carry liquid. But by their very being they eliminate or reduce a problem area where flow is not as efficient and a hot spot could result.
Hot spots exist.

Also, there are no "hot spots" on the water jacket side of the cast Iron. All the heat comes from the burning fuel in the combustion chamber (which is mostly in the head). It gets exposed to the cylinder walls as the piston moves down, but the temperature of the combustion products drops rapidly as the piston moves.

Wrong again. And right again, as usual.
Your statement is assuming a perfect world of perfectly even castings and combustion properties that get it all over and done with quickly so the rings can just scrape the heat away, suck it out of the pistons and shove it out the exhaust while the next intake charge can just jump right in and cool the previous cycle's heat. That might be exactly how it works, but it's an imperfect world in there.
While they tend to be created in certain consistent areas more often than not, hot spots can be anywhere inside one of our engines.
But more to the point of a Ford engine with thin-wall castings, any casting shift can result in a very thin point or points on a given cylinder wall. This thin area will transfer more heat, more quickly into the coolant at that very spot. Way quicker than the overall system is absorbing heat from the other areas, including the heads where flow is focused more effectively and evenly for a good reason.
This localized heat transfer, if it's in an area that's seeing higher heat inside the combustion chamber (which includes the cylinder wall of course) it can reach the boiling point of the coolant at that spot long before any overall temps are anywhere near that level.
These hot spots are a KNOWN steam generator. This "steam pocket" might just be bubbles that get dissipated into the general stream of coolant when all else is working. Never becoming actual steam as we know it. But not always.
There are probably several high points, or closed corners somewhere, where the steam can expand and keep coolant away from that surface of the block (steam would have higher pressure that the coolant sometimes, correct?), allowing it to get even hotter.
If it reaches a critical point in that localized region, an otherwise normally performing engine will "overheat" because those steam pockets impede coolant flow to the other parts of the engine and cause even more localized (localized in other areas) heat pockets. Not necessarily always turning to steam, but still seeing excess heat.

This is why it was general practice to never bore a Windsor more than .040" by many knowledgeable shops. Many years ago though they started sonic checking the blocks (any block) to make sure that the cylinder walls could all take a certain overbore and not leave any particularly thin areas inside.
The 335-series engines were also known for casting shift and all were recommended to be sonic checked for any overbore, but especially when going .030" or more.

In any case; hot spots can exist momentarily on the combustion chamber side of the cast Iron where the fuel is burning. But by the time that heat conducts through the cast Iron walls to the water jacket side, it has spread out and evened out.

Sure, but not always. Again, we're talking about inconsistencies in the castings.
On paper, you're probably correct. But in the real world of the inside of an engine the combustion heat is still greatly expanding (and cooling no doubt) unevenly, while the piston is well down into the cylinder. The uneven heat of combustion (especially poor combustion) spends more time on the cylinder walls in certain engines and at certain rpm levels than at others. Much more in some cases. Any inconsistency on the other side of the wall or cylinder head then, can cause localized hot spots in spite of the designers best efforts.
Which makes those thin spots, or more to the point, those unevenly cooled spots, more critical and why more pressure and flow through the system is so important.

So the smallest "hot spot" (meaning more than 5° difference) you could find (if you could get inside the water jacket & measure separate points) would be the entire combustion chamber in the head.

Wrong again. Or right, depending on the engine.
I can't quote the numbers, but there are very likely some very large temperature differences throughout the engine. Even different combustion temps in each cylinder from inconsistent flow in the induction and distribution once inside the head. The cylinder heads are usually the most effectively cooled part of the engine by design, but that doesn't stop excessive heat inside a cylinder from bad combustion in one cylinder from propagating more than what even a head might see.
You probably know this better than me, but as far as I know most modern engines now cool the heads first, then the rest of the engine. Used to be called "reverse cooling" but now is commonplace I think. Maybe not all engines, but for many years they would tout reverse-cooling in marketing as a way to keep higher horsepower engines at the top of the tech heap. Using the coolest coolant to run through the heads first, then the warmed coolant to not only cool the rest of the engine, but also create a more evenly heated environment.
The old GM small-block cylinder head's siamesed middle exhaust ports were a known localized hot spot, and were the subject of many cooling tricks on racing engines. And why the newer designs got rid of them. Many a melted piston and burned valve in the 4, 6 and 3, 5 cylinders resulted. A design flaw from a cooling standpoint.

The passages in the block are always much cooler, but they're also much larger. Of course it gets near that temperature. If it didn't, there would be no need for antifreeze (which is really antiboil) or a pressure cap.

Partially correct.
I'm sure the block is cooler than the heads at least initially. But that doesn't mean that they always stay that way at every point. If a localized hot spot can't be cooled efficiently, even the backside of a cylinder wall could cause trouble where the cylinder head is not. It's maybe not that it's actually hotter there, because like you say the head and exhaust areas are the hottest parts normally. But if it's not effectively cooled at that point, a cylinder wall area might create that hot spot and trouble. Even while the cylinder head is not itself causing any trouble.
They've been raising the pressure on systems for years, presumably to help cooling with the higher operating temps they're shooting for? AT the same time that combustion temps have been reduced from their peak by the introduction of the EGR system. The old 13's weren't enough for that leeway when running hotter for emissions I suppose. But we're talking about 195 rated t-stats, right? So where does the boiling come from at all if not hot spots?

So do you think that coolant at 13psi & 220°F will become hotter at 14psi, or colder (withOUT changing the heat going into it)?

No idea. Never crossed my mind.
All things equal, it probably stays the same everywhere except problem areas. Lots of things contribute to those problem areas spreading their bad juju to other areas and the overall coolant temp.
Besides, I wasn't referring to ambient pressures as decided by the cap in the radiator. I was discussing the 15 to 30 psi created by the pump and the associated increased flow that creates it, behind the thermostat. Inside the engine and not the radiator.
Two different chambers of the same system. Two different pressures.

Remember that this spur of the discussion came from Craig's desire to make his engine run cooler by swapping the t'stat to one that flows LESS.

Which was why I brought up pump/flow related pressure.
I really don't know from book learning, as you and I have discussed many times before. But I'm pretty sure I'm right on at least some of the aspects just discussed. Don't know how to prove it, but those are my stories and I'm sticking to them until faced with overwhelming evidence to the contrary.
Besides, it's too easy to argue this late at night. Looking forward to your reply later to see where I might have erred.
Don't always like being proven wrong, but I do always like learning.

Paul
 
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nickeboy

nickeboy

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Full Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2007
Messages
365
Ok, sorry about throwing all this into one post. But I just stayed out of the conversation too long and wanted to my comments out quickly. Before more info comes out and I learn something new to make it all change!:-[%)



Totally agree.



Totally disagree.
Well, I think you were just throwing out that generically, and know full well that other things matter. But I had to call you on it!

After all, how many times have we seen a heating issue here where the installation of a shroud made no difference? And changing to different thermostats made no difference? And doing many other things made no difference until the actual underlying issue was resolved. Whatever that happened to be on that particular Bronco.



See, some stuff does matter.;) I like them too and have a set waiting to go on to both Broncos.



It's higher than you'd like, but also sounds somewhat normal. Like the others have said, the temps creeping up a bit when parked after driving is common. Temps jumping up after the engine is shut down is totally normal (heat soak) and also as said, the reservoir puking after shut down is normal too a time or three. If it continues to do this, then yes, something is wrong.
But that "wrong" in your case could be the size of the reservoir, as Steve mentioned.



How small? There is such a thing as too small for a particular radiator size. What it's supposed to do is to catch the heat expanded coolant and return it to the radiator when cooled down.
If it's too small, or too full, you will have this problem always.
You could try running the recovery tank almost empty to see how it acts. If it starts to puke, then it's too small. We don't have huge radiators as these things go, but they're large enough in capacity that a too-small recovery tank is just going to keep puking every time the coolant in the radiator expands and exits the cap.
There should come a time when the liquid level in the radiator does not go out of the cap enough to fill the outside tank, but you have to determine if that's a normal level or not, when it gets to that point.



I should know by now Craig, but how is your engine set up? If the builder thought you should use a 160 thermostat (old school hi-po trick, but certainly not right for every setup) then you have a pretty high performance engine?
You've got lots of go-cool goodies in the cooling system, but as you've figured, the fan is not the best out there available.
It's certainly been good enough for most of us with moderate engines, but if your engine is building more heat than the air flow can evacuate from the radiator, more air flow can be a good thing. Whether it takes the form of improved aerodynamic flow through the body, or a better fan pulling more air, more is still good until it robs more power than you want to lose.
Luckily for most of us, we're not racing so that extra 30hp we lose to a big-ass fan isn't a factor.



Most definitely!!!! In fact, short of removing the hood temporarily to check air flow, I would verify the temps with an independent gauge or meter before anything else.
After all, as we've seen here before, you could be tracking down a problem that is not actually a problem.



Make sure they use a vacuum advance. Unless you're building a race engine, vacuum advance is only a good thing.
I'm assuming a pro already knows to advance it as much as the engine can handle.



It's not just about "high flow' with the thermostats. Their own literature used to call it "balanced flow" so I would just leave that in until the last.
I like the high-flow pumps, but would leave that until you've verified that air flow is not the issue. After all, here too stock water pumps have served us well and don't normally allow overheating unless something else is just too much for them.
The main thing about high-flow pumps is that, yes, they can build more pressure, and keep more coolant in the nether regions of your block, but they also flow more while taking less power and not cavitate at higher rpm levels.
That last is their main claim to racing fame. That it can flow better than most while taking less power to do so. Power is winning, but it's not a requirement for cooling.
But it doesn't hurt that less power needed probably means less heat generated.
Side effects are cool...;D

So even though I'm a big fan of both brands and would happily recommend them, chase down the other stuff before you take more time (forget the money, the time is a bitch!) to replace existing stuff that might be fine.
Take the hood off and drive in the same circumstances to see what happens.



Maybe not a problem. Even a stock radiator could cool a V8 with some added performance and still had head-room for more. But hey, cooler is cool. And he's right about the air flow. A thinner core can flow more air with a given fan.
But your staggered 4-row is not much thicker than stock. The offset cores do slow down the air flow, but also add more surface area without quite as much of the traditional drop that a big massive 4 or 5 row core would have.
If he's willing to give the new one to you, no loss! But assuming it's costing a pretty penny even at your buddy-cost, you might hold off until you're really sure you can't cool with your existing one.
I'm about to install one just to see if there is any difference. Although in my case, it's not really a test as I did not have any cooling issues with the stock 3-row version either.
Have a 2-core aluminum to play with next, but it's so damn thick that I need custom mounts. I hate that aspect of some of the fancy big aluminum radiators, where the tank seams are inline with the mounts. The welded seams are just too darn thick. Doubt I can grind the rad down though, so modified mounts it is.
But that's later...



Definitely have to at least check this aspect. Whether it is or not in your case, it's often the main problem. If not the only problem.
Been that way since we've been wheeling these things in the heat. Back in the sixties and seventies, many an EB was spotted on the trails with their "custom bikini tops" strapped to their roll bars to let the heat out of the engine compartment.
The custom bikinis being the completely removed hood of course.
The bigger flowing fans are really just to overcome the deficiencies in air flow that already exist and are taxed to their max with higher performance, or poorly tuned (higher heat producing) engines.



Definitely let us know how the testing goes. Lots of things left before more parts get added I'm thinking.



He was very likely referring to the entire list of symptoms discussed in this thread. Not just one single thing mentioned yesterday is my take on it.



Disagree and agree. More pressure is better from two aspects. And yes, it's a boiling issue, but at a level that most of us will never know about because it's localized inside the block and doesn't need to show itself at the radiator to have an effect on cooling.
The pressure does raise the boiling point of course. But that's more to do with the internal "ambient" pressure. It's the water flow pressure that really helps internally.
As we know, the higher pressure and flow inside the block keeps the coolant against every little tiny corner and angle of the water jacket. Reducing, or hopefully eliminating any hot spots that might create either a micro steam pocket, or just keep sufficient coolant flowing over that point of contact that it doesn't even get near the temperature to boil off the coolant.
So while I agree it increases the boiling point, I disagree that pressure does not effect temperature. It's just not always at the gauge or the radiator cap.



Funny that. I'm sure it was a pain. Even modern cars have funny issues. On the Saturn forums there's a lot of chatter about how the electric fan is not coming on, or the gauge is reading over the center, or when tested they found the temps to be in the "overheating" range.

From the factory, the electric fan isn't even supposed to fire up until the temps reach 210° and the engine tune and aerodynamics keep the coolant temps down below that under 90% of normal operating conditions.
I forget what the gauges read, but I think there are some numbers. Just not a full scale of them. People just don't like to see that needle go over the middle!

Paul



Update again:
I received the 7 blade fan mentioned above from Summit. I installed it ran around town again at 190* came home sat in the driveway and at an idle watched it climb to 205 (idled for 5 minutes). This is a lot better, but the bad part is the weather is cooler too. About 80 degrees today. (90* on Sunday) I'm going to drive it all week and see what happens. No fan clutch.



Side note for clarification:
The other day when I came home and parked, I was idling. Like someone mentinoed above I'm testing to see if I can sit in a drive thru or not. Ha, really Im trying to make sure I can go to Bronco Daze and Big bear bronco bash without overheating on the trail.
 

72Sport

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 8, 2002
Messages
2,954
Update again:
I received the 7 blade fan mentioned above from Summit. I installed it ran around town again at 190* came home sat in the driveway and at an idle watched it climb to 205 (idled for 5 minutes). This is a lot better, but the bad part is the weather is cooler too. About 80 degrees today. (90* on Sunday) I'm going to drive it all week and see what happens. No fan clutch.



Side note for clarification:
The other day when I came home and parked, I was idling. Like someone mentinoed above I'm testing to see if I can sit in a drive thru or not. Ha, really Im trying to make sure I can go to Bronco Daze and Big bear bronco bash without overheating on the trail.

New theory: Hot air from the engine, headers/manifolds, and air that has passed through the radiator rises as high as it can go under the hood. It can escape out the vents in the back of the hood or over the top of the radiator toward the front of the radiator where the engine fan is creating a vacuum. With no forward movement the hot air mentioned previously finds the easiest way out which is down in front of the radiator where it is recirculated over and over again which increases engine temperature until you get through the drive thru and start moving forward. Stop the air from going over the top of the radiator at idle and problem solved.

Vendors sell plates to go across the front of the radiator support. I don't own one but they have sold quite a few. I made up my own years ago after I noticed my Bronco getting hot at idle. Might not be your problem but it can only help.
 

FlogginHarvey

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2011
Messages
373
Loc.
Wichita
Went through similar issues here but add a 331 stroker...so I took it to a buddy's rod shop and here is what resulted:

Rod Davis rad
Moved the radiator hangers behind the core support (provided clearance for the condenser)
Spal electric Offroad fan
Fabricated Fan shroud for above
Low profile water pump and pulleys
V-belt setup (Wild Horses recommended a v-belt setup for the hydraulic ram assist steering)
Derale Auxiliary trans cooler BEFORE the in-radiator trans cooler for trail rides later (C4 auto)

Fan kicks on at 195 and shuts down at 170. It hovers in between that no matter where I drive, how fast, or how hard. I'm in central ks and it was in the high 90's and low 100's when I got it back.

From what I can now tell, the Ron Davis setup is plenty of radiator. My buddy forced me to consider electric fan as they move much more air at or around idle when our little radiators need the airflow the most (and get the least). We ended up going with the Spal fan that Ron recommended to the Rod Shop as a side note. Yes it was a lot of money but he plumbed and setup the belt routing for the vintage air kit down the road with a condenser in front of the radiator and pump. He said it would have been a piece of cake without the a/c fiasco.

If anyone wants to see if they will "kit" things up it was Devlin Rod & Custom in Wichita, KS. They did a ton of research and mock-up before we bought all the parts. Happy I did it.
 
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nickeboy

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New theory: Hot air from the engine, headers/manifolds, and air that has passed through the radiator rises as high as it can go under the hood. It can escape out the vents in the back of the hood or over the top of the radiator toward the front of the radiator where the engine fan is creating a vacuum. With no forward movement the hot air mentioned previously finds the easiest way out which is down in front of the radiator where it is recirculated over and over again which increases engine temperature until you get through the drive thru and start moving forward. Stop the air from going over the top of the radiator at idle and problem solved.

Vendors sell plates to go across the front of the radiator support. I don't own one but they have sold quite a few. I made up my own years ago after I noticed my Bronco getting hot at idle. Might not be your problem but it can only help.

This is the next step. I'm going to rig something up and see if it makes a difference. If so, I will order those next. The wife is starting to comment on the boxes being delivered. Haha
 

Steve83

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Wrong again.
I'm not ignoring you, and I do want to continue that discussion, but I'd like to wait until the OP is done with this thread. I realize how disruptive these hypertechnical spurs can be... ;D
Vendors sell plates to go across the front of the radiator support.
I used heavy plastic - leftovers from building wheelwell liners. But for a quick, cheap, easy test; cardboard can be used temporarily, just to see how much effect it has.

 

DirtDonk

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I'm not ignoring you, and I do want to continue that discussion, but I'd like to wait until the OP is done with this thread...

No problemo. I wasn't ignoring you either when it took me so long to reply. I guess I had to wait until I was good and tired to spew all that out.
Take yer time in fact.;) I'm still tired!

Paul
 
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nickeboy

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I'm not ignoring you, and I do want to continue that discussion, but I'd like to wait until the OP is done with this thread. I realize how disruptive these hypertechnical spurs can be... ;DI used heavy plastic - leftovers from building wheelwell liners. But for a quick, cheap, easy test; cardboard can be used temporarily, just to see how much effect it has.


I'm going to try the cardboard cutouts today.
 
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nickeboy

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So I've tried cardboard cutout air dams all week and have done well. Todays temperature in Temecula was 90* and The Bronco ran around all day at 180-200*
When I arrived at home, I put it in park and let it idle. Temps got up to 210, but didn't change after 3 minutes.

So far so good, but do any of you experts think It will run hotter in 100* degree weather?
 

72Sport

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So I've tried cardboard cutout air dams all week and have done well. Todays temperature in Temecula was 90* and The Bronco ran around all day at 180-200*
When I arrived at home, I put it in park and let it idle. Temps got up to 210, but didn't change after 3 minutes.

So far so good, but do any of you experts think It will run hotter in 100* degree weather?

Not an expert I would guess it would run a little hotter at idle. A positive seal between the hood and radiator and between the hood and the core support on either side of the radiator helps. Any hot air from the engine that you can away from the front of the radiator will help cooling. I used what looks like door seal material. There is nothing holding it on except the metal molded in it. I would give you a vendor name but I picked it up at the Long Beach swap meet in 2003. The seal material across the front of the radiator support is just wide enough to contact the lip or stem on the inside of the hood. I wish the PO hadn't popped a battery or? under the hood.
 

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nickeboy

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Not an expert I would guess it would run a little hotter at idle. A positive seal between the hood and radiator and between the hood and the core support on either side of the radiator helps. Any hot air from the engine that you can away from the front of the radiator will help cooling. I used what looks like door seal material. There is nothing holding it on except the metal molded in it. I would give you a vendor name but I picked it up at the Long Beach swap meet in 2003. The seal material across the front of the radiator support is just wide enough to contact the lip or stem on the inside of the hood. I wish the PO hadn't popped a battery or? under the hood.

Thanks for the tips. That's pretty trick. I'm going to fab something up for this area soon. Next weekend, temps are supposed to be closer to 100* so I'll have one more test run before I build it all out.
 
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