Cooter's Explorer 5.0/4R70W Swap

[Cooter_76]

I've been chipping-away at the engine. Decided to keep the original cam. New head gaskets & ARP head bolts, new oil pump, new water pump. Had to replace two of the water pump/timing cover bolts that had snapped during disassembly. Lots of degreasing, soda blasting and paint stripping, but things are finally starting to come together.

I painted the engine block with Dupli-color engine primer and paint w/ceramic in "Cast Iron" color. Valve covers are gloss black. I like the look so far.

 

[sanndmann3]

I just found this thread...
That waterpump bolt almost always breaks (atleast for me out in the junk yards). same goes for the upper one on the other side...
Really nice looking engine! bet you can't wait to get it installed.

 

[Cooter_76]

I just found this thread...
That waterpump bolt almost always breaks (atleast for me out in the junk yards). same goes for the upper one on the other side...
Really nice looking engine! bet you can't wait to get it installed.

I'm excited, but I've got a long way to go!

Question about intake manifold gaskets: On my old 302 I ditched the gasket pieces that run across the front and back of the block in favor of a large bead of RTV. Is that the preferred method on these Explorer engines as well, or should I use the pieces included with the gasket set?

 

[bronkenn]

That is a fine looking motor you got there. Nice work. Ken

 

[904Bronco]

I have used RTV on every 5.0 roller motor intake that I have assembled, I think I am up to 7 now... Only thing I will use.

I have more issues with the rear main seal leaking than anything else.

 

[chuck1022]

Damnit that looks nice.

 

[Rocko1012]

pan

Do you plan on running the explorer oil pan? What exhaust manifolds?

 

[904Bronco]

Do you plan on running the explorer oil pan? What exhaust manifolds?

The Explorer pans fit fine, steel or aluminum...

The exhaust manifolds fit fine as well, I wouldn't use the 96 tubular manifolds, definitely restrictive. The 97-01 for P-heads work well, some will say they are restrictive, others will say they work fine. Bronco hut headers are reported to be the best fitting, I just couldn't get passed the price.

Dorman also makes replacement exhaust manifolds (China) if you have a cracked or broken one.

 

[Wyflyer]

I'm excited, but I've got a long way to go!

Question about intake manifold gaskets: On my old 302 I ditched the gasket pieces that run across the front and back of the block in favor of a large bead of RTV. Is that the preferred method on these Explorer engines as well, or should I use the pieces included with the gasket set?

Ditching the supplied pieces is good. I ditched RTV after I discovered Right Stuff

 

[Cooter_76]

Do you plan on running the explorer oil pan? What exhaust manifolds?

Yes, I’m planning to use the aluminum Explorer pan. For exhaust I’ll retain my existing long tube headers.


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[Cooter_76]

Ditching the supplied pieces is good. I ditched RTV after I discovered Right Stuff

Good to know. Thanks!


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[Pa PITT]

.. I too was going to ask .. What RTV do you guys like. So many different ones.
.. & Yes I LIKE THE RIGHT STUFF Also. I even used it under my Windshield Hinge . Also to me it's easier to Control the Flow from the tubes.
... Always Buy Fresh stuff .. What ever brand you buy.

 

[bsquared]

904 Bronco helped me out with the part number for a reverse operated heater control valve and hoses. Sorry, I don't have that info with me here, but I had to do that and had to get creative with one of the heater box control lines. Had to mount one of the lines to the Explorer PCM box.

EFIGuy gave me a tip about using Dodge Neon coil packs instead of the stock Exploder ones that limit you to using the stock Exploder wires. With the Neon packs you can make your own cut to length wires. However, you will need to make a bracket to mount the Neon coil packs. (pics attached)

Good luck with your build! Cheers, B2

 

[Cooter_76]

904 Bronco helped me out with the part number for a reverse operated heater control valve and hoses. Sorry, I don't have that info with me here, but I had to do that and had to get creative with one of the heater box control lines. Had to mount one of the lines to the Explorer PCM box.



EFIGuy gave me a tip about using Dodge Neon coil packs instead of the stock Exploder ones that limit you to using the stock Exploder wires. With the Neon packs you can make your own cut to length wires. However, you will need to make a bracket to mount the Neon coil packs. (pics attached)



Good luck with your build! Cheers, B2

Thanks for the info and inspiration. Do you remember where you read about adding a pulley to the throttle cable? You were showing it to me at Hidden Falls a few weeks ago.


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[bsquared]

Thanks for the info and inspiration. Do you remember where you read about adding a pulley to the throttle cable? You were showing it to me at Hidden Falls a few weeks ago.

Oh Shoot! Didn't realize that was you, bud! Pretty sure it was called the Lars Mod. Lemme do a quick search on that and reply.

 

[bsquared]

Hey Cooter,
Here is the post with links to the Viperwolf throttle mod. See post #11 on this thread.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284652&highlight=Lars+Mod

That should help! Cheers, B2

 

[Cooter_76]

Hey Cooter,
Here is the post with links to the Viperwolf throttle mod. See post #11 on this thread.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284652&highlight=Lars+Mod

That should help! Cheers, B2

Thanks!


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[Cooter_76]

I just noticed a broken nipple for some sort of crossover hose(?) on the rigid heater tubes that are mounted to the intake. Not sure how important this hose is, if I should attempt to have someone repair this, replace the whole assembly or somehow block it off. Any thoughts?

 

[904Bronco]

If memory serves me correctly... With that By-pass, water is always flowing through the pipe so that the ECT sensor sees a correct engine temp reading...
Might be easier to find a replace Heater pipe, than to try and repair that one...

 

[Cooter_76]

If memory serves me correctly... With that By-pass, water is always flowing through the pipe so that the ECT sensor sees a correct engine temp reading...
Might be easier to find a replace Heater pipe, than to try and repair that one...

Good points. It might also help prevent air pockets in the cooling system? I'll see if I can scrounge one up at the Pick-n-pull. I also need to try to find a firewall box for the ECU and an air filter box.