Cooter's Explorer 5.0/4R70W Swap

[Cooter_76]

Question time:

- I don't have the hose that goes from the back of the upper intake to the PCV valve. Is this a special pre-bent hose, or can I use standard vacuum or fuel line?

- While looking at other pics here on CB, it looks like the nipple on the PVC valve itself should come straight out (up.) The one I got at O'Really?'s has a 90 degree elbow. Do I have the wrong one? I bought a new PVC grommet, but it slips out of the lower intake pretty easily. Should this be a tight fit?

- The new new radiator I bought came with several different sized adapters for the transmission cooler lines. I found a pair that work with the Explorer's cooler line fittings, but one fitting (top) is longer than the other (bottom.) The shorter Explorer fitting doesn't go deep enough into the adapter. Went to two different parts stores and neither had a shorter adapter or a longer fitting. Has anyone else run into this?

- I bought some OEM style spark plug wires, and they're waaay too long (like 8" too long.) What wires are most people using with the Explorer coil packs?

 

[904Bronco]

The PCV valve should have a straight fitting. The hose is curved...

The rubber grommet for the PCV is always loose from the aftermarket (Dorman).
The Ford Factory one is not loose: F7CZ 6A892 AA

Here is the revised PVC hose from Ford, Unfortunately they are proud of it so price is up there. And the early Explorer motors are set up differently than the late ones... You might want to try a straight piece of hose?

Nice work on the TB repair...

 

[Cooter_76]

The PCV valve should have a straight fitting. The hose is curved...

The rubber grommet for the PCV is always loose from the aftermarket (Dorman).
The Ford Factory one is not loose: F7CZ 6A892 AA

Here is the revised PVC hose from Ford, Unfortunately they are proud of it so price is up there. And the early Explorer motors are set up differently than the late ones... You might want to try a straight piece of hose?

Nice work on the TB repair...

Thanks for the info!

 

[.94 OR]

Any reason you couldn't cut the adapter down so the shorter hose end would then be able to reach the bottom and seal? Appears you would still have plenty of hex to tighten it with.

 

[Cooter_76]

Any reason you couldn't cut the adapter down so the shorter hose end would then be able to reach the bottom and seal? Appears you would still have plenty of hex to tighten it with.

That's not a bad idea, though I'm not sure I could cut it down without damaging the threads.

I found this Dorman Part #624-224, which looks to be the right size fitting. Amazon has them for $9.85, so I'll order one and see if it fits.

 

[Rocko1012]

wires

Ultima Select Spark Plug Wire Set
Part # 3315-03 Line: USW

From Oreilly's
worked out good

 

[Cooter_76]

Ultima Select Spark Plug Wire Set

Part # 3315-03 Line: USW



From Oreilly's

worked out good

Thanks. We’re the wires the appropriate length? The Oreilly’s site shows these as being compatible with P heads. I don’t know if there is a difference between GT40 and GT40-P heads besides the compression ratio and spark plug angle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jbawall]

I am using the stock motorcraft replacement wires. They are massively too long, so I am removing the connector and shortening them and re-crimping. Lot of work but will look a ton better.

 

[Cooter_76]

Latest updates:
- I did find the original hose that connected the PCV valve to the upper intake, but it was old and brittle, so I used a piece of 3/8" transmission cooler line in its place. I was able to pull the plastic elbow off the PCV that I'd posted earlier.
- Received the new transmission cooler fitting for the radiator from Amazon, and it's a good match.

- Installed the upper intake manifold and switched focus to the Arctic Air Box. The IAT sensor has a barbed body, so I drilled a hole in the intake tube and it seems to fit nice & snug.

- The air box installation was pretty easy, but the filter is a tight fit. I had to squeeze it a bit to shoehorn it in there. Decided to go with the filter that came with the kit, at least for now.

 

[Cooter_76]

Out of curiosity, I took some pictures from the radiator area with the hood closed completely. The pictures are a bit deceiving. The oil fill cap and the pressure hose for the power steering are about one index finger (1/2"?) from the hood. Note: this is with a 1" body lift.

 

[Cooter_76]

Please let me know. I can make a change if I ever have more produced if that is going to be a clearance issue. For some reason, it is not with my set up.

Build is looking good

The bracket cleared everything just fine once I had the manifold secured properly. Great product!

 

[jbawall]

I started my swap last night for the first time. Fired right up and really sounded good. It feels like it has been forever since I started the swap and such a relief to hear it run. It is worth all the effort! Your thread and JSMALLs have been extremely helpful for me, so thanks!

 

[Cooter_76]

I started my swap last night for the first time. Fired right up and really sounded good. It feels like it has been forever since I started the swap and such a relief to hear it run. It is worth all the effort! Your thread and JSMALLs have been extremely helpful for me, so thanks!

Congratulations! I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, and I'm getting excited.

 

[Cooter_76]

Spent some time this weekend working on the under-hood wiring.
- I used a different fuse block than the one Garry provided so I could also include fuses for the radio and the yellow wire from the alternator - saw that he'd recommended this in a different thread.

- I used the original alternator wire from the Explorer to run from the alternator to a 150 amp circuit breaker, then to the starter relay.
- Ran the green w/red stripe from the Bronco's original alternator harness to the matching wire on the Explorer's alternator pigtail.
- Used the original starter wires from the Explorer to run to the relay. The large cable is attached to the same post as the alternator and battery. The smaller wire runs to the other large post on the relay, per one of Garry's diagrams.

Still need to make a few other connections and clean everything up a bit.

Questions:
- Where on the engine block should I secure the negative battery cable?
- There's a ground strap from the back of the lower intake manifold to the firewall. Do I need to run any additional grounds, like from the engine to the frame?
- What momentary switch are most people using for the O/D off function?

 

[904Bronco]

Spent some time this weekend working on the under-hood wiring.

Questions:
- Where on the engine block should I secure the negative battery cable?
- There's a ground strap from the back of the lower intake manifold to the firewall. Do I need to run any additional grounds, like from the engine to the frame?
- What momentary switch are most people using for the O/D off function?

I looked for a good picture, but came up with this point on the Pass side of the block to attach the negative cable from the Battery. Since it is unused, although my 96 Explorer Alt bracket has a 4th mounting bolt on the front side? I run a tap through these threads to clean out the dirt.

In an Explorer, the ground strap on the back of the block is supposed to be for radio interference. But I am sure we can reuse it for grounding/interference prevention. Explorers have a self threading green ground stud on their firewall. I reuse it on the Bronco firewall, typically mounting it in the re-enforcement bracket for the heater mount. More meat to bite into and it is long enough that you could ground the Heater fan/housing to it by adding a nut on the inside. It is metric.

Frame grounding - same size gauge wire as Batt cables. Mount one end on the single bolt hole on the timing cover where the mech fuel pump would be on an earlier engine. Then a self tapping 5/16 bolt with a star washer on the frame, typically on the front crossmember's little 45* back support.

O/D - I used the switch that Duffy used... https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/ They are sold at Summit racing, highly recommend the plug for the back with pigtails rather than soldering to the terminals directly

I also add one more ground wire (10-12g) from the Batt to the Rad support to make sure the headlights have a good ground.

Will look for more pic's and info...

 

[Cooter_76]

I looked for a good picture, but came up with this point on the Pass side of the block to attach the negative cable from the Battery. Since it is unused, although my 96 Explorer Alt bracket has a 4th mounting bolt on the front side? I run a tap through these threads to clean out the dirt.

In an Explorer, the ground strap on the back of the block is supposed to be for radio interference. But I am sure we can reuse it for grounding/interference prevention. Explorers have a self threading green ground stud on their firewall. I reuse it on the Bronco firewall, typically mounting it in the re-enforcement bracket for the heater mount. More meat to bite into and it is long enough that you could ground the Heater fan/housing to it by adding a nut on the inside. It is metric.

Frame grounding - same size gauge wire as Batt cables. Mount one end on the single bolt hole on the timing cover where the mech fuel pump would be on an earlier engine. Then a self tapping 5/16 bolt with a star washer on the frame, typically on the front crossmember's little 45* back support.

O/D - I used the switch that Duffy used... https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/ They are sold at Summit racing, highly recommend the plug for the back with pigtails rather than soldering to the terminals directly

I also add one more ground wire (10-12g) from the Batt to the Rad support to make sure the headlights have a good ground.

Will look for more pic's and info...

Thanks (as always) for the helpful info!

 

[Bruners4]

Hello everyone! I'm starting this same journey with my '68 by installing a '97 explorer.
Question that I have is for the engine oil dipstick. My original is rusty and cracked by the exhaust manifold. Are you using an original replacement or something aftermarket?

 

[Cooter_76]

Hello everyone! I'm starting this same journey with my '68 by installing a '97 explorer.
Question that I have is for the engine oil dipstick. My original is rusty and cracked by the exhaust manifold. Are you using an original replacement or something aftermarket?

I’m using the dipstick that was on the Explorer engine. You may be able to find one in a junkyard. A company like Lokar may also sell an aftermarket version.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[904Bronco]

Hello everyone! I'm starting this same journey with my '68 by installing a '97 explorer.
Question that I have is for the engine oil dipstick. My original is rusty and cracked by the exhaust manifold. Are you using an original replacement or something aftermarket?

Or buy a new one from Ford, you may need the Vin# from the Donor... At least that what the gals behind the Ford counter have to know to do anything here in town.

F67Z6750BA - 96 Explorer Oil dip stick (I don't think they changed over the years)

 

[lagbolt]

Cooter I’m install the same 2 into 1 exhaust with headers as you. I’m running into the same problem as you with the transmission lines on the 4r70w. But my question is how did u get the transmission dipstick tube to clear the header? My in hits and won’t allow me to install my header. Also do you think the heat from the headers will be problem on the transmission lines running across the top of the frame rail? I ask because I installed my in the same way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk